Not sure how many of you are aware of the stand alone Master Blaster units sold by ModelSounds. These are powered by a self contaned rechargeable battery and the sounds are stored on a Micro SD card. They sell them for all sorts of use with model railways and model boats.
http://www.modelsounds.co.uk/ The units cost £29.99 each plus postage and come with a sound card of your choice from thier catalogue, although you can always add and create your own by buying a blank Micro SD card or two. The cards take the sound in the same format as Itunes so loading anything you like to a card is relatively easy, even for a non-teenager like me!
Like to point out at this stage - I have no connection to ModelSounds except as a satisfied customer. Have to say they are very helpful and supportive and always willing to give advice.
Here is how I used some modules I bought from them....
My chum and I have developed an unusual quirky layout that had it's first outing late last year. It is a loose-lay combination of G Scale Trains and 1/24 slot cars which are in the form of a roadway that crosses the tracks at two level crossings. The cars stop for the trains at the crossings. See the Thread
Tri-ang Minic for the Myopic? for details.
We had already added some sounds in the form of two mechanical US style crossing bells that are activated by the approaching train, however the layout needed more buildings: so we decided to add a saloon, a church and a barn. As well as lights, each building was going to have a sound module activated by the trains to play Saloon style honky-tonk piano, American Baptist style hymn singing and cattle sounds.
We chose the Model Sounds module as they are cheap, easy to use, very effective (loud)! Also on a loose lay type layout that already has plenty of wires the battery in each unit saved laying on a smoothed regulated audio quality supply.
The Master Blaster Module
As supplied the unit is not remotely switchable, which is what we wanted as it was it to be activated by an approaching train, so this is what we did:
1/ Break open the module - insert a series of small screwdrivers between the metal top and the base and prise away until the base comes loose. The base holds the circuit board and this is what you need access to. Careful not to dislodge or break the plastic control buttons that will tend to float around all the time the unit is open.
Find the switch on the circuit board. By using a probe lead you can work out which two switch connections you need to tap into to make it switch on and off remotely. Remember the unit takes a second or so to power up so touch and hold the two connections and you will see the blue light come on before the sound starts playing.
In my experience the connections you need to solder to are one in from each end of the five present.
Solder carefully and quickly making sure your bare wire ends are pre-tinned and short, so as not to cause short circuits
Next you will need to drill a hole in the metal case to let the wires out. It does not matter where you drill it, as long as you make sure you take care you don’t drill into anything inside the device! The wires need to be brought out of the module through this hole - do this before re-assembly!
After you have done all this make sure you test the module to check it still works. To reassemble the unit just carefully squeeze the base back into the main part of the unit, taking care to line up the openings and cut outs in the top for the various switches and ports. It should just fit back together and stay
Next I mounted the unit inside my building using Hot Melt Glue. Taking care to ensure that the ports I needed access to most frequently are the easiest to get to for charging and perhaps changing the Micro SD card every now and again.
The Church has already been done. Next one is the Barn and then we are ready for the next outing!
James
http://www.modelsounds.co.uk/ The units cost £29.99 each plus postage and come with a sound card of your choice from thier catalogue, although you can always add and create your own by buying a blank Micro SD card or two. The cards take the sound in the same format as Itunes so loading anything you like to a card is relatively easy, even for a non-teenager like me!
Like to point out at this stage - I have no connection to ModelSounds except as a satisfied customer. Have to say they are very helpful and supportive and always willing to give advice.
Here is how I used some modules I bought from them....
My chum and I have developed an unusual quirky layout that had it's first outing late last year. It is a loose-lay combination of G Scale Trains and 1/24 slot cars which are in the form of a roadway that crosses the tracks at two level crossings. The cars stop for the trains at the crossings. See the Thread
Tri-ang Minic for the Myopic? for details.
We had already added some sounds in the form of two mechanical US style crossing bells that are activated by the approaching train, however the layout needed more buildings: so we decided to add a saloon, a church and a barn. As well as lights, each building was going to have a sound module activated by the trains to play Saloon style honky-tonk piano, American Baptist style hymn singing and cattle sounds.
We chose the Model Sounds module as they are cheap, easy to use, very effective (loud)! Also on a loose lay type layout that already has plenty of wires the battery in each unit saved laying on a smoothed regulated audio quality supply.
The Master Blaster Module
As supplied the unit is not remotely switchable, which is what we wanted as it was it to be activated by an approaching train, so this is what we did:
1/ Break open the module - insert a series of small screwdrivers between the metal top and the base and prise away until the base comes loose. The base holds the circuit board and this is what you need access to. Careful not to dislodge or break the plastic control buttons that will tend to float around all the time the unit is open.
Find the switch on the circuit board. By using a probe lead you can work out which two switch connections you need to tap into to make it switch on and off remotely. Remember the unit takes a second or so to power up so touch and hold the two connections and you will see the blue light come on before the sound starts playing.
In my experience the connections you need to solder to are one in from each end of the five present.
Solder carefully and quickly making sure your bare wire ends are pre-tinned and short, so as not to cause short circuits
Next you will need to drill a hole in the metal case to let the wires out. It does not matter where you drill it, as long as you make sure you take care you don’t drill into anything inside the device! The wires need to be brought out of the module through this hole - do this before re-assembly!
After you have done all this make sure you test the module to check it still works. To reassemble the unit just carefully squeeze the base back into the main part of the unit, taking care to line up the openings and cut outs in the top for the various switches and ports. It should just fit back together and stay
Next I mounted the unit inside my building using Hot Melt Glue. Taking care to ensure that the ports I needed access to most frequently are the easiest to get to for charging and perhaps changing the Micro SD card every now and again.
The Church has already been done. Next one is the Barn and then we are ready for the next outing!
James
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