A question for Ian

dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Not being an electronic expert in anyway whatsoever, not putting a fuse in the system seems a bit rash. The other thing, it may be just the camera angle, but from what I can see, the soldered joints of the black and white wires on the front of theboard appear to be a bit poor, the black one looks close to touching the heat sink, wold that be some of the cause of your problems?
Not looked too closely at those soldered joints hm.... some heat shrink (best option) or other insulation (perhaps using something from stripped wire) would have helped. I have recently found at Lidl Parkside plastic boxes containing varying sizes and colours of Heat shrink for I think around £3. Well worth having a box in stock, I have 2 as I forgot that I already had one when they were in again!

A little soldering tip for Mr Cook, strip a short section of the wire and pre tin the wire before connecting. Use some flux for that final joint you will get better connections to boards that way. Oh and a gentle clean off of any flux residue. If you do in future use any heat shrink make sure it is a couple of inches away from the joint when you solder it, allow to cool then move the shrink and shrink the shrink in place by holding the side of the iron close - not the tip you do not wish to unmelt that joint.
 
Choppercook

Choppercook

Registered
29 May 2019
75
24
64
Norfolk
Thanks to Phil The loco is all running well, I had a run around the garden to day & every thing is working will, Lights, Souns & Smoke. Thanks to you all for your help.Cookie
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
25,984
1,502
Tamworth, Staffs.
You are welcome!

Glad you are sorted. :clap::clap:

PhilP.
 
D

Dan

Registered
28 Jan 2010
305
25
Eastern MA
I run both of my 20232 on 24 volts DC with no issues.
 
Choppercook

Choppercook

Registered
29 May 2019
75
24
64
Norfolk
Hi, you run both of your 20232 on 24 volts DC , I was frightened I would burn out the circuit board, I now run it with a Lipo 11.1 battery, It all runs well but slow. But I will say all help will gratefully received
 
Choppercook

Choppercook

Registered
29 May 2019
75
24
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Norfolk
Thanks fro that I will check what the ESC will take, I will get back to you
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
17,336
1,862
72
St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Thanks fro that I will check what the ESC will take, I will get back to you
The 24 volts is a bit of a misnomer, modest sized battery Locomotives will run quite happily on 10-16 Volts. My biggest lump to date is 2 LGB Chassis Loco made up from the USA 2-4-0 loco, this loco has a nominal 16.8 volt set of batteries. Will not break any speed records but before I got at the top speed would do 60-70 scale kph.

Now if you have multiple lash ups of big heavy amp eating USA Locomotives powered by battery with one setup powering more than 2 locomotives in tandem then you would need a big set of Volts and Amps.
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

Registered
8 Mar 2014
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San Diego
www.elmassian.com
Most battery people here are narrow gauge guys, I think in general because they run fewer locomotives (when you get a lot of locomotives battery becomes more expensive, so consisting diesels gets $$)

So, the narrow gauge guys are mostly steamers and they don't run as fast, usually way under 50 smph. So, around 14.8 volts seems to be the sweet spot on battery voltage. For people who run diesels or have locos that are geared way down (like Aristo SD45), they usually pick a higher voltage, like 18.5. Aristo Craft supplied 21 volt lithium packs.

So if your loco is too slow for your liking, maybe "going up" one cell in the pack would do it.

Greg