why did you have to show me that video???beavercreek said:
now I'm at a crossroads. Do I
1) give up now because I'll never be able to do anything like that, or
2) use it as a goal to aim for ???
A moving Fireman
- Thread starter gregh
- Start date
now I'm at a crossroads. Do I
1) give up now because I'll never be able to do anything like that, or
2) use it as a goal to aim for ???
Greg,
You probably know Gerry Hopkins who presented the video. He used to be a big time fan of H0n30" then progressed to 0n30".
Given that in one run by of the loco there is a much bigger loco in the background, I think those effects are actually in 0n30" scale.
You probably know Gerry Hopkins who presented the video. He used to be a big time fan of H0n30" then progressed to 0n30".
Given that in one run by of the loco there is a much bigger loco in the background, I think those effects are actually in 0n30" scale.
Madman said:
Dan,
links work OK for me. If you can't get the pdf one to work, maybe I can download and email it to you.
The aztec kit is a bit complicated in that you have to wire up all the push, buttons, leds etc every time you use it. But it would be OK. It's best feature is it has a 5V power supply (USB?) , not just batteries.
The one I use has 3 LEDs and pushbuttons on it. I only use the 08 types, which have 8 pins - 5 I/O of which 1 must be an input and 1 must be an output and the other 3 can be either. You can plug any one of the different picaxes 8, 14,20 pins etc into that kit, so you experiment with any size. If I need more than 8, I use twp of them! and it keeps the programs simple. And the price difference is not noticeable - $2.95 for 08M2 and $7 for 20M2 here in Oz.
Anyone this way up had experience of the Maplin picaxe kits? - I am very tempted..
Saw a Gyralight made using a picaxe module, and you would swear it was actually a mechanical device!
Saw a Gyralight made using a picaxe module, and you would swear it was actually a mechanical device!
PhilP said:
If you're referring to this one, it's NOT a Picaxe programmer.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pic-microcontroller-programmer-kit-k8048-n36ac
Why not go straight to Picaxe website and get this one
http://www.picaxe.com/Hardware/Starter-Packs/PICAXE-08-Starter-Pack/
The drawback is it runs on batteries - but you can build/buy a 5V supply later.
Looks like a few people are interested in learning about Picaxes. Maybe I should start a new thread with a few tutorials. Anyone interested?
BUT YOU NEED SOME ELECTRONICS KNOWLEDGE. If you can't solder and don't know a transistor from a resistor, you won't be able to use them
BUT YOU NEED SOME ELECTRONICS KNOWLEDGE. If you can't solder and don't know a transistor from a resistor, you won't be able to use them
[quote author=gregh link=topic=298181.msg306776#msg306776 date=1393019469]
If you`re referring to this one, it`s NOT a Picaxe programmer.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pic-microcontroller-programmer-kit-k8048-n36ac
Why not go straight to Picaxe website and get this one
http://www.picaxe.com/Hardware/Starter-Packs/PICAXE-08-Starter-Pack/
The drawback is it runs on batteries - but you can build/buy a 5V supply later.
[/quote]
I use the 08 proto board (green) and one (veroboard) that I made using the schematic in the picaxe manual for 14M chips.
I connect to my computer using the AXE027 USB cable because I don`t have a serial port if there is one then picaxe has instructions on how to make the cable.
I use batteries because they are convenient in my limited workspace.
I also bought a cheap "breadboard" from with jumpers from China and that is what I use for my experimenting/playing around with picaxe.
It is powered by an old printer supply that I got from a charity store and supplies 12V & 5V @ 1.5A which is plenty for picaxe circuits
[attachimg=3]
If you`re referring to this one, it`s NOT a Picaxe programmer.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pic-microcontroller-programmer-kit-k8048-n36ac
Why not go straight to Picaxe website and get this one
http://www.picaxe.com/Hardware/Starter-Packs/PICAXE-08-Starter-Pack/
The drawback is it runs on batteries - but you can build/buy a 5V supply later.
[/quote]
I use the 08 proto board (green) and one (veroboard) that I made using the schematic in the picaxe manual for 14M chips.
I connect to my computer using the AXE027 USB cable because I don`t have a serial port if there is one then picaxe has instructions on how to make the cable.
I use batteries because they are convenient in my limited workspace.
I also bought a cheap "breadboard" from with jumpers from China and that is what I use for my experimenting/playing around with picaxe.
It is powered by an old printer supply that I got from a charity store and supplies 12V & 5V @ 1.5A which is plenty for picaxe circuits
[attachimg=3]
Attachments
Yes Greg, go for it, would be very interested..
Seems this is a (relatively) cheap way into this area..
Of course, it could probably get expensive quite quickly!!
Seems this is a (relatively) cheap way into this area..
Of course, it could probably get expensive quite quickly!!
beavercreek said:
Hey that animation is really superb, love the guy trying to smash the led with a hammer....
When one of you has time a G scale animated horse would be much appreciated, I'll make the tram for it to pull, in fact I'd make two, one for the horse maker....
Having convinced myself I could make a fireman move, I decided to install one in a loco. I was going to go straight to my ‘best’ loco, but thought maybe I’d better start with a not-so-good one.
So I decided experiment with my stock-standard Big Hauler. The dimensions turned out favourably so I could just glue a servo under the front ‘footplate’. I had to raise the tender footplate to get the shovel to firebox height.
I didn’t need any pin-in-slot arrangement to make him move in and out, so he just turns. I took the easy way out and left the driver on the right side so the fireman can be right handed and I didn’t have to do any surgery except rotate his right hand and shorten the shovel handle.
I used a picaxe to drive the servo and two LED’s in the firebox. In the future I’ll add a sound recording card with shoveling sounds, triggered by the picaxe each time he goes to the tender. The picaxe gets its 5V supply from the Hobbyking ESC, so it’s the simplest possible cct – just the picaxe and a filter capacitor.
Naturally everything was great on the bench, but when I ran it around curves and the tender moved relative to the loco, there were places where things ‘fouled‘ with the loco. I think I’ve fixed it all now except when he’s in his rest position. If it becomes a real problem, I’ve written the Picaxe program so I can put a magnet on the loco and reed switch on the tender to indicate they are too close. The program will then move the fireman to a ‘safer’ place.
This shows the fireman in his ‘rest’ position (turned max to left). However on sharp left hand turns the shovel hits the firebox, so I may change his rest position.
The video here gives a better idea of what happens. The sound is added on the video, until I add the sound card, but I’ll replace the Bachmann sound unit when I do, so it might be a while yet!
[size=12pt]Here’s the video link[/size]
[size=12pt]http://youtu.be/NLm1s7qcjGs[/size]
So I decided experiment with my stock-standard Big Hauler. The dimensions turned out favourably so I could just glue a servo under the front ‘footplate’. I had to raise the tender footplate to get the shovel to firebox height.
I didn’t need any pin-in-slot arrangement to make him move in and out, so he just turns. I took the easy way out and left the driver on the right side so the fireman can be right handed and I didn’t have to do any surgery except rotate his right hand and shorten the shovel handle.
I used a picaxe to drive the servo and two LED’s in the firebox. In the future I’ll add a sound recording card with shoveling sounds, triggered by the picaxe each time he goes to the tender. The picaxe gets its 5V supply from the Hobbyking ESC, so it’s the simplest possible cct – just the picaxe and a filter capacitor.
Naturally everything was great on the bench, but when I ran it around curves and the tender moved relative to the loco, there were places where things ‘fouled‘ with the loco. I think I’ve fixed it all now except when he’s in his rest position. If it becomes a real problem, I’ve written the Picaxe program so I can put a magnet on the loco and reed switch on the tender to indicate they are too close. The program will then move the fireman to a ‘safer’ place.
This shows the fireman in his ‘rest’ position (turned max to left). However on sharp left hand turns the shovel hits the firebox, so I may change his rest position.
The video here gives a better idea of what happens. The sound is added on the video, until I add the sound card, but I’ll replace the Bachmann sound unit when I do, so it might be a while yet!
[size=12pt]Here’s the video link[/size]
[size=12pt]http://youtu.be/NLm1s7qcjGs[/size]
I hope we'll hear the shovel scraping in the coal, properly timed with the sound of the fire door closing! 
