3D Printing

LGB-Sid

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Sounds like a good plan, seen lots of different tips on how to get proper adhesion between the material and a cold print bed. I suspect it's one of those problems that only really solved in the long run by trying several ideas until you find one that works. Would the blue painters tape just be the single sided masking stuff? I've used double sided sticky tape before but it's a nightmare to clean off of the print bed afterwards.

Mine has a heated bed but even at 110 deg ABS can still warp and lift off the bed :( the scotch blue printers tape is just sticky on one side the idea behind it is it gives a key to the glass surface , in theory. The good thing about it it holds fast up to 110 deg dosen't bubble of lift off the glass and when you need to pull it off it comes off clean. I used it as in theory on it's own at the right temp ABS will stick to it which some of my bits have but large foot print objects don't stick enough to stop the wrap at the edge and lift, so it's cheap hairspray and ABS juice testing this week, the glue stick theory didn't work at all it made adhesion worst :(
 

LGB-Sid

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Printer I'm looking at has a heated bed / is enclosed, so I assume this helps??

This has set me thinking these beasts are probably quite power-hungry??

It says on the nett that they don't use that much power , the workings are all 24v I do have some plug adapters that give power readings used by appliances I ought to plug my printer into one to see what It uses :sweating:.
 

PhilP

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Thanks..

Trying to get a handle on 'care and feeding' of the beasts..


I would hope (seeing as a 'print' can take several hours), that once started, the printer could be left to is' own devices?
 

LGB-Sid

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Thanks..

Trying to get a handle on 'care and feeding' of the beasts..


I would hope (seeing as a 'print' can take several hours), that once started, the printer could be left to is' own devices?

Yep , when mine has failed it usually fails around 90+ % :rofl::rofl: Since I bought mine I have learnt how to model things to suit the way printer builds up it's layers, how to tweak the slicing software that makes a bit difference to the way things print, so I get the layer lines where I want them, also that the same thing doesn't print the same in all materials mine came with a roll of PLA and I bought some PET-G and ABS. once I have cracked the bed adhesion for ABS then I will be happy to leave mine running on it's own, as I work from home that one is easy :)
 

Alan B

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Ive just come in from the shed having set my printer up for a 16 hour and 20 min print I only stay long enough to check the first couple of layers have gone down OK, so this is a overnight, unsupervised print, the reason I can do this is simple the printer is in an enclosed case so the temperature in side remains constant this is essential when printing in ABS the printer is a UP box DSC_1302.jpg
roof print.png
The roof is printed in 4 sections and glued later giving a total length of around 550mm
 
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Alan B

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A picture of the 16 hr print last night in ABS roof now done no warping or lifting.

DSC_1304.JPG
 

PhilP

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Nice!

A whole new meaning to "Here's one I made earlier.." ;):nod::nod:
 
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trammayo

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Nice!

A whole new meaning to "Here's one I made earlier.." ;):nod::nod:

Maybe a case of "I've started, so it will finish it"?
 

Alan B

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Maybe a case of "I've started, so it will finish it"?

Yep Have to finish it have just done a deal for a almost new and unused live steam loco in exchange for a brill railcar :clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
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