Wiring your track...
- Thread starter Mez
- Start date
ntpntpntp
Registered
Two wires from the command station to some switch boxes, from where the trackwork is wired as for analogue with switched sections in the sidings and passing loops just in case I want to run DC (eg. if a visiting friend wishes to use their TE or something). For DCC running I simply switch all sections on. If I'm setting a particularly heavy/awkward/articulated loco on the track then it's useful to be able to switch off that section to avoid an accidental short shutting down the whole layout.
Points use individual DCC accessory decoders, running from a separate DCC power bus (from same command station) rather than through the track so that I can still operate points if the trackwork is under DC power. Points operated using a little "mimic diagram" box with stud-and-probe contacts, using an NCE Mini Panel to talk to the command station.
I can use a netbook pc to run the whole thing wirelessly if I feel like it, using JMRI software through my house wi-fi network and a terminal server connected to the command station.
No train detection yet.
Points use individual DCC accessory decoders, running from a separate DCC power bus (from same command station) rather than through the track so that I can still operate points if the trackwork is under DC power. Points operated using a little "mimic diagram" box with stud-and-probe contacts, using an NCE Mini Panel to talk to the command station.
I can use a netbook pc to run the whole thing wirelessly if I feel like it, using JMRI software through my house wi-fi network and a terminal server connected to the command station.
No train detection yet.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
MTS here. Two wires from the 'box' which is safely (and dry) in the house, run to the track. This feed is doubled to the otherside of the loop to inprove feed. A feed from the track to the points control box and then two wires to each point. Thats it apart from some switched dead sections in the loco yard.
stevelewis
Registered
Experience has taught me over many years of G scaling, in the interest of sanity to keep it very simple,
When I lifted an old (analogue) line some years back prior to moving I filled several Black rubbish bags with cable
Whilst doing this it was very apparent that over the several years of the lines existence probably 75% of those cables had served no real useful purpose
These days with digital system in use I have but 2 feeds to the line one close to the central station the other at some distance from the C.S. fed by a simple 'speaker Cable' ( 20-25p per metre local Hardware shop.
When laying the track I add a short 6" length of the same speaker cable , at infrequent intervals around the line, simply by insertin the bared ends of the cables in the rail joiners of LGB track, or utilising the screws UNDER Aristo track, these cables are intended for use in the event of an unexpected power failuer in the track, it would be a simple matter to connect a cable to a GOOD section of track and thus restore power, in practice this has very seldom become nescessary, the best conductor of the power is the track itself!
As I mentioned earlier keeping it simple will pay dividends
When I lifted an old (analogue) line some years back prior to moving I filled several Black rubbish bags with cable
Whilst doing this it was very apparent that over the several years of the lines existence probably 75% of those cables had served no real useful purpose
These days with digital system in use I have but 2 feeds to the line one close to the central station the other at some distance from the C.S. fed by a simple 'speaker Cable' ( 20-25p per metre local Hardware shop.
When laying the track I add a short 6" length of the same speaker cable , at infrequent intervals around the line, simply by insertin the bared ends of the cables in the rail joiners of LGB track, or utilising the screws UNDER Aristo track, these cables are intended for use in the event of an unexpected power failuer in the track, it would be a simple matter to connect a cable to a GOOD section of track and thus restore power, in practice this has very seldom become nescessary, the best conductor of the power is the track itself!
As I mentioned earlier keeping it simple will pay dividends
jacobsgrandad
Registered
Two interconnected continous circuits about 100 yards each. One pair of wires from a massoth controller. Works for me.
minimans
Trains, Planes, Automobiles & Shooting
Two wires for running trains. Turn the knob to the right it goes foward turn the knob to the left it goes backwards!! I really fail to see what could be simpler???
However there are more that two wires for the point control's even using the LGB common return method there are still 26 points with a wire apiece to come back to the shed and control panel. I use a multicore sprinkler wire so it's all quite tidy.
Then of course theres the Automatic train operation via EPL which I confess I have not used in years as I prefere to just sit and play one at a time these days but the wiring is there! Four auto passing sidings with 4 1700's each plus the main station is wired with huge Capacitors to slow and accelerate the Loco's (Havn't worked since the neibour kid reversed a train in the station POOOOOF!!!!!)
So I guess I'm trying to say the simplest way to run trains is analog with two feed wires if you just want to watch trains. But if you want to be actually playing with your trains shunting and delivering stuff and all that, it gets a bit more complicated!! But don't let anyone tell you digital is so much simpler otherwise why do we have so many questions and problems in the Digi section of the forum?? it's all courses for horses.................................
However there are more that two wires for the point control's even using the LGB common return method there are still 26 points with a wire apiece to come back to the shed and control panel. I use a multicore sprinkler wire so it's all quite tidy.
Then of course theres the Automatic train operation via EPL which I confess I have not used in years as I prefere to just sit and play one at a time these days but the wiring is there! Four auto passing sidings with 4 1700's each plus the main station is wired with huge Capacitors to slow and accelerate the Loco's (Havn't worked since the neibour kid reversed a train in the station POOOOOF!!!!!)
So I guess I'm trying to say the simplest way to run trains is analog with two feed wires if you just want to watch trains. But if you want to be actually playing with your trains shunting and delivering stuff and all that, it gets a bit more complicated!! But don't let anyone tell you digital is so much simpler otherwise why do we have so many questions and problems in the Digi section of the forum?? it's all courses for horses.................................
Cliff George
Registered
I agree simple is best.
My railway is split into 21 blocks, in each block is individually wired back to a central point, there is no common rail, there is no bus wiring. This gives flexibility for power districts, and method of control.
I use digital, each block is fitted with occupancy detection, the detection status of each block is fed into a computer which can control the railway automatically if required. Manual control works as well.
Nothing electronic is outside except wires and track, points work via compressed air.
My railway is split into 21 blocks, in each block is individually wired back to a central point, there is no common rail, there is no bus wiring. This gives flexibility for power districts, and method of control.
I use digital, each block is fitted with occupancy detection, the detection status of each block is fed into a computer which can control the railway automatically if required. Manual control works as well.
Nothing electronic is outside except wires and track, points work via compressed air.