Wiring an LGB turnout

paul2887

paul2887

Registered
I'm new at this, so this is probably going to sound a little dumb, but I'm lost. I have some LGB turnouts and an LGB switch box to operate them. I wired the box to an 18v transformer, then wired the box to the switch. When I press the button the switch throws one way, but not the other. I've tried every possible configuration of the wires that I can, but no luck. I'm thinking a better option would be to give up on the box and use a momentary DTDP toggle instead. But I can't seem to get good information on whether I need an 18 volt toggle to operate the turnout (most that I see are rated 12 volt). It seems that the turnout is designed for 16-18 volts, so I don't even know if a 12 volt transformer and toggle will work. I've also seen posts here about AC and DC to the turnouts, but those don't seem to be in agreement about which to use. I'll only be throwing one switch at a time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated (as you can see I'm no electronics genius!)
 
I use a 12v old Scalextric transformer to switch mine and it works ok. If you are using the EPL motors they need DC. Maybe your transformer is outputting AC?

Rik

Rik
 
Your Toggle option will work no matter the type if LgB switch motor (there are two types). the other type has a small piece of upwards pointing plasticI would suggest the higher toggle as it will take the constant voltage changes. Nite the other type of motor where there is a blip with bit of upwards plastic at the end of the point. Not all of this type will have the screw fittings for the wire but note the need for 3 wires. One is common the other 2 are for left and right.IMG_9036.jpeg
 
ge_rik said:
I use a 12v old Scalextric transformer to switch mine and it works ok. If you are using the EPL motors they need DC. Maybe your transformer is outputting AC?

Rik

Rik
Click to expand...
My understanding is half wave (!!!) 18 volts, especially with the LGB controller, but I use 18 volts DC but you need either a double pole double throw centre off none latching switch.
 
what works for me: (if you got the switchmotor, like in software tools' pic)

the rails get the regulated 0 - 18 (or 24) DC (!) (red and blue)
the AC (minimum12 V, max 20V) goes with one cable (the white) direct to the switchmotor.
the other AC cable (black) goes to a switch-box/reed-contact/bell-button.
(you need either a three way switch, or two momentum switches in parallel)
behind the switch(es) there must be two diodes. (one forward, one backwards connected) (if you got the right box, the diodes are included inside)
behind the diodes you bring both together with the SAME cable (orange) to the switch-motor.
(if your switchmotor looks like the one in dunnyrail's pick, go with two separate cables (yellow and green) to the switchmotor. (that switchmotor would work as well with DC through bell-buttons))

the colours mentioned are following the LGB description.
 
JimmyB said:
My understanding is half wave (!!!) 18 volts, especially with the LGB controller, but I use 18 volts DC but you need either a double pole double throw centre off none latching switch.
Click to expand...
That is correct.

An AC supply is fed to the LGB box, which rectifies it to half wave DC.

AFAIK, the correct LGB box is the orange one. 5075 or 50750 is the part number.

The yellow one LGB 51800 is used for isolation of track and uses simple On/Off switches.

Like Software Tools, I reckon Paul may have the 51800 box.

The switches on the Orange box will be a centre Off, with momentary On either side of the centre position....
 
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It sounds as if you have the wiring wrongly connected somewhere, either at the control box end or at the switch motor end. Rather than try and explain it in words, I'll try and find some instructions or photos for you. You don't need to know how the thing works electrically, just how to wire it up correctly.
 
IMG_20260118_115741.jpgDPDT (On) - Off - (On) switches. - The brackets indicate the switch is biased (non-latching) so returns to the centre-off position when released.

These will work with either a DC supply, or AC with the addition of a single diode.

Unfortunately, it would cost more in postage, than the cost of the switches..

PhilP.
 
Hi: Thanks for all the replies. To answer the questions:

-I believe these are EPL drives. They are marked 1201/10 on the bottom. 2 inputs, one marked white and one marked orange.
-Switch box is orange, marked 5075 on the bottom.
-I have two transformers available. One is 110-240V in, 18V 1A DC out. The other is 12V 2A DC out.

I plan to have 8 switches on the layout. I have 3 of these orange boxes, which appear to connect together to transfer power from box to box.
 
paul2887 said:
One is 110-240V in, 18V 1A DC out. The other is 12V 2A DC out.
Click to expand...

you can work the epl drives with DC. But...

... then the probability to fry the drive is very high.
if you install from AC as i described, the diodes cut the wave of the AC in half.
at too long contacts, instead of a continuous flow, only a stuttering, interrupted upper or lower halfwave reaches the drive.
that does not fry the drive, but makes a hell of a noise. - indicating, that a switch is stuck.

paul2887 said:
Tracks are not powered
Click to expand...

that matters for other things, but does not influence the LGB - epl system.
 
paul2887 said:
Hi: Thanks for all the replies. To answer the questions:

-I believe these are EPL drives. They are marked 1201/10 on the bottom. 2 inputs, one marked white and one marked orange.
-Switch box is orange, marked 5075 on the bottom.
-I have two transformers available. One is 110-240V in, 18V 1A DC out. The other is 12V 2A DC out.

I plan to have 8 switches on the layout. I have 3 of these orange boxes, which appear to connect together to transfer power from box to box.
Click to expand...
Okay, you have the correct boxes.

So have you tried another switch motor, or even a different switch?

Your problem might be mechanical, rather than electrical.

Also, can you supply a photo of your wiring so that we can check it please....
 
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