Hey, I'm only being creative here.
- 11 Mar 2017
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Casey, sorry to ask, but are you sure that the duckett are in the right place? The sliding doors look like they wont openI’ve spent last few days building and painting a Swift Sixteen Guards Van:-
View attachment 273328 View attachment 273329 View attachment 273330 View attachment 273331 It is a very easy kit to build. There was very little flash and all the joints were square and true. I fitted Binnie buffers as they are compatible with my other rolling stock.
Paul, the sliding doors were modified by the CFR staff so they couldn’t open. The interior of the Guards van was rebuilt and the ducketts were added.Casey, sorry to ask, but are you sure that the duckett are in the right place? The sliding doors look like they wont open
An all weather cab for a Porter, very nice.Still up to my eyeballs in packing up everything for the (Now much delayed.) (Thanks Covid... NOT..!) house move.
Anyhoo, I've come across all kinds of train related rammel. So I've had a bit of a play.
Those of a sensitive nature should look away now!
3/4 of a much abused LGB porter saddle tank.
1/8 of a early Bachmann LYN.
Add plasti-card and assorted sprinkles to taste.
Joking aside, the Lyn cab only needed a couple of mm off the boiler opening to fit the LGB / Playtrain chassis. 9mm slice off the rear of the wrecked lYN chassis / boiler assembly provided the extra length need and filled the original mounting holes.
Still quite a bit to do to yet, ( like a nice tall straight funnel.) But has some potential.
The only question is what name give this unholy union. As obviously LYN no longer fits the bill.
NB: No functioning locomotives were destroyed in this experiment. All parts from the junk / spares box.
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Yes I've had these problems. I had a number of R3 points that had the spot weld fail in the same place. I also had dead blades so wired them to the fixed rails.Friday turned up two points that were not working correctly, so yesterday was the fix, both LGB R3 with LGB point motors and ancillary switches.
The first point the motor was not activating the switch, and though the motor was working and the switch worked independently, it would seem the mechanism, wasn't quite right to through the switches, some cleaning and readjustment and all was fine, just a fiddly job to do.
The second point, which had a dead line between the frog and blade had to be removed to work on. It was quickly identified that "spot welded" connection had failed, so heavy duty soldering iron and some 5 amp wire sorted that. Also I identified that the copper connections to the blades were not as good as they could have been, so whilst the point was removed these were also remedied. All back in place and power has been restored.