What happened at your workbench today?

dunnyrail said:
So you are carving thin foam for the walls? Or will it form the master for ultimately resin moulding?
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This is to glue onto the exposed sides of besser blocks. It is 30mm thick xps foam sheets. They are cut to fit the space, "normal" liquid nails works well on it.
They are not really "carved" as such. Thou i do run a knife lightly along the mortar lines to start with.
The detail and relief of rock edges is just pushed in with a old worn out small phillip's head screwdriver that has been ground to a point. I just run the screwdriver along the rock edges pushing it in say 5mm, then just push in any extra detail as needed. Pretty quick and easy to do.
There is next to zero mess of bits of foam to clean up, as the detail isn't cut out and xps is a lot stronger than the white packing foam that gets little bits everywhere.
 
grizzmo said:
This is to glue onto the exposed sides of besser blocks. It is 30mm thick xps foam sheets. They are cut to fit the space, "normal" liquid nails works well on it.
They are not really "carved" as such. Thou i do run a knife lightly along the mortar lines to start with.
The detail and relief of rock edges is just pushed in with a old worn out small phillip's head screwdriver that has been ground to a point. I just run the screwdriver along the rock edges pushing it in say 5mm, then just push in any extra detail as needed. Pretty quick and easy to do.
There is next to zero mess of bits of foam to clean up, as the detail isn't cut out and xps is a lot stronger than the white packing foam that gets little bits everywhere.
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Thanks I have something similar to that, must give it a go.
 
I got the other wall finished off last night after tea, whilst watching anime and chatting with my wife.
This is the first time I have tried working with xps foam.
Its very easy to do and fun.
I am very happy with the results, you can get great texture and depth pretty quickly.
The only minor mishap, don't use tamiya putty to cover joins. It slightly melts the foam :(, i should of just used exterior grade no more gaps.
I think the number of stone viaducts and walls on the railway will be increasing greatly, lucky i model the RhB :D
IMG_20251009_145727177_HDR.jpg
 
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grizzmo said:
I got the other wall finished off last night after tea, whilst watching anime and chatting with my wife.
This is the first time I have tried working with xps foam.
Its very easy to do and fun.
I am very happy with the results, you can get great texture and depth pretty quickly.
The only minor mishap, don't use tamiya putty to cover joins. It slightly melts the foam :(, i should of just used exterior grade no more gaps.
I think the number of stone viaducts and walls on the railway will be increasing greatly, lucky i model the RhB :D
View attachment 348551
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Very impressive, I guess you are using external grade PVA to glue together?
 
GAP said:
Are you using it outside? If so what are you UV protecting it with?
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Yes it is for outside. I will undercoat it with a mix of modge podge tinted with black acrylic paint. That undercoats it and seals the foam it also protects it from the varnish.
Next coat will be just acrylic artists paint.
A couple of topcoats of outdoor polyurethane matt varnish to protect the paint and seal it all up.
Will it last? I can't say as this is my first try at it, but I have used these paints and varnish on plastic outdoor garden ornaments.
They have been standing up to the elements well.
I will say if it fails.
 
grizzmo said:
Yes it is for outside. I will undercoat it with a mix of modge podge tinted with black acrylic paint. That undercoats it and seals the foam it also protects it from the varnish.
Next coat will be just acrylic artists paint.
A couple of topcoats of outdoor polyurethane matt varnish to protect the paint and seal it all up.
Will it last? I can't say as this is my first try at it, but I have used these paints and varnish on plastic outdoor garden ornaments.
They have been standing up to the elements well.
I will say if it fails.
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Not sure if you have such paint sold where you are, but you might also try a test piece for comparison with just a couple of layers from a masonry paint test pot (mid stone is a good all round shade which can be subtly tinted with acrylics). Just a thought.
 
grizzmo said:
Yes it is for outside. I will undercoat it with a mix of modge podge tinted with black acrylic paint. That undercoats it and seals the foam it also protects it from the varnish.
Next coat will be just acrylic artists paint.
A couple of topcoats of outdoor polyurethane matt varnish to protect the paint and seal it all up.
Will it last? I can't say as this is my first try at it, but I have used these paints and varnish on plastic outdoor garden ornaments.
They have been standing up to the elements well.
I will say if it fails.
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May be worth a try with some photo uv protection, but nit sure how it would effect the foam?
 
grizzmo said:
Yes it is for outside. I will undercoat it with a mix of modge podge tinted with black acrylic paint. That undercoats it and seals the foam it also protects it from the varnish.
Next coat will be just acrylic artists paint.
A couple of topcoats of outdoor polyurethane matt varnish to protect the paint and seal it all up.
Will it last? I can't say as this is my first try at it, but I have used these paints and varnish on plastic outdoor garden ornaments.
They have been standing up to the elements well.
I will say if it fails.
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Acrylics tend to last fairly well outdoors - just because they can be water soluble doesn't mean they're not robust.
 
Rhinochugger said:
Acrylics tend to last fairly well outdoors - just because they can be water soluble doesn't mean they're not robust.
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Though classed as water soluble, not all mix with water, a lot of car paint is acrylic, and Tamiya formula is quite different from other model acrylics.
 
JimmyB said:
Though classed as water soluble, not all mix with water, a lot of car paint is acrylic, and Tamiya formula is quite different from other model acrylics.
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Yes, I frequently use Tamiya thinners on acrylics of various makes :drunk:
 
Walls now painted, grouted and varnished. Just need it to stop raining and for a bit sun to dry things out so I can glue them in place.
IMG_20251012_135436328_HDR.jpg
Once they were painted i spread tile grout around with a brush and smoothed it out with my finger. A misting spray of water to set it off , I used a damp cloth to wipe any excess of the rock faces after a few hours. 2 coats of acrylic outdoor matte varnish to seal it up.
I went more orange and brown rocks with the mocha tile grout. Instead of a more prototypical grey rock and white/light grey grout of the RhB.
As I thought they would fit in better with the real rocks I have.
I can't say how long they will last, but it was fun, easy, quick and cheap to do. :)
 
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I'm building a kit of a brick lorry, for my Feldbahn theme. Brick lorries were a common sight on clay sites around here (I'm near the Rhine) and elsewhere. I photographed this one at a museum last Summer:
1760283746954.png1760283775056.png

As far as I understand, the bricks were made on plates which were then shoved into these lorries. That way the lorries could be loaded while the bricks were still too wet to handle, and they air-dried while being transported over the terrain.

The kit I'm building was produced by Modellbau Heyn. They based it on this photo, from a 1913 Orenstein&Koppel catalogue:
1760282120235.png

1760282911660.png
1760284009700.png

The frame of the lorry is about 8x20 cm, so it seems big compared to my other 7-8th scale lorries. The thing is sold as 1 in 13 scale. Well, we'll have to see how it looks when put together. I suppose the "rubber ruler" of G scale also applies to 7-8th.

I bought several bags of bricks to go with it:
1760283302322.png

The thing that surprises me about this kit is that I have to drill every hole myself. That is, they did drill the holes but not deep enough, not wide enough, or both. Maybe this is normal and I'm just not used to these slightly more advanced kits?
Also, not all wooden parts have been cut correctly, and I already broke a few details by not carefully dry-fitting everything. Hmmm.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to loading this thing with a few hundred bricks, which will give it a very high centre of gravity, and trying to pull it around on my tight curves without having it topple or losing a bunch of bricks.

It could even be a competition. :devil: Drive around as fast as you can, but every brick dropped is a penalty of one second. Or something.
 
Jasper said:
As far as I understand, the bricks were made on plates which were then shoved into these lorries. That way the lorries could be loaded while the bricks were still too wet to handle, and they air-dried while being transported over the terrain.
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Jasper, are you sure about that?

Clay bricks need to be fired in order to gain any strength.

Has something been lost in translation?
 
Jasper said:
I'm building a kit of a brick lorry, for my Feldbahn theme. Brick lorries were a common sight on clay sites around here (I'm near the Rhine) and elsewhere. I photographed this one at a museum last Summer:
View attachment 348679View attachment 348680

As far as I understand, the bricks were made on plates which were then shoved into these lorries. That way the lorries could be loaded while the bricks were still too wet to handle, and they air-dried while being transported over the terrain.

The kit I'm building was produced by Modellbau Heyn. They based it on this photo, from a 1913 Orenstein&Koppel catalogue:
View attachment 348674

View attachment 348677
View attachment 348681

The frame of the lorry is about 8x20 cm, so it seems big compared to my other 7-8th scale lorries. The thing is sold as 1 in 13 scale. Well, we'll have to see how it looks when put together. I suppose the "rubber ruler" of G scale also applies to 7-8th.

I bought several bags of bricks to go with it:
View attachment 348678

The thing that surprises me about this kit is that I have to drill every hole myself. That is, they did drill the holes but not deep enough, not wide enough, or both. Maybe this is normal and I'm just not used to these slightly more advanced kits?
Also, not all wooden parts have been cut correctly, and I already broke a few details by not carefully dry-fitting everything. Hmmm.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to loading this thing with a few hundred bricks, which will give it a very high centre of gravity, and trying to pull it around on my tight curves without having it topple or losing a bunch of bricks.

It could even be a competition. :devil: Drive around as fast as you can, but every brick dropped is a penalty of one second. Or something.
Click to expand...
An interesting project, Jasper, and I look forward to following its progress. It may be worth mentioing the problems with the kit to Modellbau Heyn.
 
playmofire said:
An interesting project, Jasper, and I look forward to following its progress. It may be worth mentioning the problems with the kit to Modellbau Heyn.
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Thank you! I have mentioned similar things to them several times over the past few years, and never gotten a reaction. So maybe it's useful to do so, maybe not. If I feel like a good citizen I may do it.
 
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