Varnish and decals

[Cyclone]

Nearly finished my railbus but I've never built anything like this.

So should I lacquer/varnish first and then apply decals or apply them on top of paint coat.

Cheers

Ed

 

[ntpntpntp]

For waterslide decals, usually best to apply the decal on a gloss paint finish then varnish over with thin layer of gloss to seal the decal and hide the clear edges. Then apply matt/statin/gloss varnish - whatever you prefer for the final finish.

 

[maxi-model]

To hide a waterslide decal's carrier film apply to gloss finish paint only then apply laquer after decal has had time to dry thoughly (say 3 days). Choose laquer finish you require, test on spare decal/paint to check it does not react with paint or dissolve decal. If you can, use Microscale Microset fluid to help fully minimise risk of carrier showing. Dry print decals can be laid over any paint finish as there is no carrier film to hide but still test if you are going to seal them with a laquer
Max.

 

[Cyclone]

Thanks. The first lacquer reacted badly so further testing required.
Gonna get on paint rest of first.

 

[Northsider]

I've found that allowing time for any solvent in the paint to be fully released helps; so lacquering fresh paint results in 'crackled' lacquer, but leave it a week and the same paint/lacquer combination will be fine. This has also been the case with layering cellulose and acrylic paints.

 

[maxi-model]

Rule of thumb. Always use primer, colour coats and laquer products that are from the same maker and designed to be compatible with each other.
Automotive paints cellulose and acrylic, e.g. Halfords, will be a group of finishes/products that will be ok to use together.
Likewise oil based enamels, e.g Humbrol, wth their white spirit based solvents will be ok together.
You can lay oil based enamel finishes over automotive paints (and Tamiya/Humbrol type acrylics, see below), both primer and colour coats, provided automotive paint has had time for the solvents to "flash over" and cure - but never the other way around.
Tamiya/Humbrol type acrylics and suchlike should not have automotive paint type acrylics overlaid on them. They tend to be ok overcoated/undercoated with oil based enamel products though.
As I said at the begining use like with like and read the makers recomendations. Specialist automotive paint suppliers and hobby shops should generally stock products grouped as compatible ranges.
There are some non-standard products around known to be pretty much inert that can be used as laquers, such as Johnsons Klear gloss floor finish but they would probably not be appropriate with the dictates of a more worn model railway finish.
Max.

 

[Cyclone]

Thanks that a nice summary. I've used a Railmatch enamel colour coat but need to find a lacquer. Automotive lacquer reacts, so need to find an alternative, which is a shame. I thought the colour coat was water based so I bought the wrong ones.

 

[maxi-model]

Now I know what your colour coat is could I offer some more specific advise ?

While the Humbrol, Revell, etc' ranges are readily available at general hobby and craft shops might I point out a couple of my favourites.

Phoenix Precision paints do a range of excellent hard wearing (some enamel based laquers never cure properly) satin and matt finished laquers designed to go with their rage of oil based enamel paints. I think they do them in rattle cans, if not invest in a basic cheapo "Badger" knock off airbrush and air can. These are thinned with a white spirit based product. There is also the Microscale range of finishes that also cure/dry to a hard finish. Most model aircraft specialist stock them, e.g. Hannants, but you will need an airbrush. Thinnable with water they can be shot over just about anything without fear of an adverse reaction.

Used the Phoenix product on my GRS rake of L&B coaches, addmitedly over a automotive type acrylic colour coat. Give them a ring, just Google the name and you will find them. they are very helpful and informative. They are always at the model engineering exhibitions and some of the bigger model rail ones. They have products, not just paint ( lining decals ), suitable for all scales and materials in the model railway hobby.
Max.

 

[Cyclone]

I have a iwatta neo airbrush (Christmas present), but wanted to use up a railmatch rattle can I bought for the model especially. I have so me railmatch waterbased varnishes (gloss and satin) which I'll test next.
Have mainly Phoenix, tamiya, citadel and vallejo paints.