Transfer (decal) paper

Eaglecliff

Eaglecliff

Registered
Country flag
Called at our local Hobbycraft today and spotted a pack of 10 sheets of printable transfer (decal) paper for just under a pound a sheet. It's made by Letraset; you print it, cut it out and stick it on. Has anyone tried it? How thick (i.e. visible) is it when applied? Is this the same material as those horribly brittle Letraset alphabets of old? Never could get on with those. Or is it similar to the printable waterslide stuff Hobby's sell? I've tried that and although it worked up to a point, it just as often rolled up into a tight tube and refused to flatten out. Also, it was no good on paler colours - not enough opacity in the printer ink. And if you want white lettering you have to use the white version.
 
be11cd482e2645be9b223266b0896245.jpg
I recently made some "Il Cheapo" decals for some small locos on my line. I simply typed the words I wanted and printed them out on plain paper. Then I placed double sided tape on the back and clear packaging tape on the front. Believe me, they look like they came from the Dollar store, but for me, they serve the purpose.
 
Not familiar with the Hobbycraft product, have for a number of years used the decal sheets from http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.u...either, other than a very satisfied Customer.
 
I to have used Crafty computor for paper. They do self adhesive and water slide, again available in white or clear.
I prefer the water slide transfers which you have to print your logo on and then seal it with lacquer
This is my loco
977e47af0cf84862b40ddea00efe8cc3.jpg
 
Many Thanks Arthur, been trying to solve this print white on clear mystery for some years.

There's not a lot of info on Mr Parkes' website. Can you tell us some more please? Are they UK weather-proof?

And preferably with some pix too!


mike
 
Just a standard ink jet . You print the logo ,allow the ink to dry. thenn seal with acrylic lacquer and use as per transfers
 
ROSS said:
What you probably have is SAFMAT by Letraset (See Google)
It's a clear, thin film. Print what you want on it with printer and cut out peel and apply.
It is not "proper decal paper" as modellers know it. That requires soaking in water before sliding off the backing and applying to surface.. It is better to "varnish" the decal after it is dry before soaking it.
According to US forums KRYLON if available, is best as its UV proof and good outdoors. DULLCOTE is not UV proof. .

As a matter of interst there is also a white vinyl sheet that can be printed on and cut and peeled off. Not as thin as decal paper. From Amazon. Its called Photo Paper Direct Vinyl Sticker Paper. Available at £13 odd for 20 sheets.
Click to expand...

Helpful. I'd give you a star if I knew how!
 
I always thought gentlemen should avoid the clap... (from old tv comedy sketch about Russian dancing).

Be that as it may, I've bought a packet of Safmat, and, as per previous experience with inkjet printers, there just isn't enough depth of ink to provide a solid colour, certainly against a black ground. The edges of the carrier film don't hold down very well either, although a coat of varnish might help.

Turning now from the question to a possible answer, a technique I have come across in the past, using transfers as part of the process (specifically US star markings on tanks) is to paint a patch of the eventual colour required (e.g. white) over the area, apply the transfer (decal) in the appropriate place, then paint the body colour over the patch and decal. When the top coat is dry, carefully remove the decal to reveal the white painted shape underneath. However, I don't think I've got the skill or the patience to cut out all the required letters (twice!) just to put my railroad name on each tender...
 
I have used the laser printed water-slide decals (both clear and white films), injet water-slide decals (both white and clear films), solver self adhesive (for stainless steel passenger cars) and self adhesive vinyl.

The clear and white films are great provided they are used for particular options.

If using the white film so as to get white lettering (or to achieve brighter light tones) on a black or solid colour background, it is sometimes easy to notice the different 'background colour' that the printer toner/ink makes to that of the surface that the decal is going to applied to. This can easily happen even though you are careful to try to match the colour profile production of the printer/screen gamut to that of the original surface.
Weathering can mask this but if weathering is not going to be used it is good to border the black area of the decal with a white or colour strip/piping. If your design includes this of course!

I have used vinyl decals on their own but even though they are very thin, the thickness can be still be seen and might distract viewers from the overall effect if inspecting closely.
Here is a method of using them as a mask, much like 'Eaglecliff' has done with water-slide transfers.
For white lettering/design:
1) first spray paint the surface in white (or other opaque light colour to be used). Spraying gives a good thin coat that will not leave a 'tell-tale footprint'
2) apply the vinyl decals
3) spray the surface the colour that is to be used ie black. A good idea to cover a whole section face rather than a patch of a face.
4) remove the vinyl decals and you have very clearly defined, sharp edged lettering with a practically unnoticeable level difference join between paint borders.
 
I've never been able to get a printer to put enough ink down to get a viable transfer and I have tried several , using various settings >:(
 
ROSS said:
. I nearly screwed up the Laser actually using Laser decal paper!! (NOT ALL lasers will handle Laser decal paper due high heated rollers so watch it...you'll spend hours picking emulsion of rollers...(don't ask......) :-\
Click to expand...
So I'm not the only person who has had to do this? Encourageing.... Took me 10 hours to do the job.... Then I discovered that the roller was part of the toner cartridge assembly and could have easily been replaced....
I find the best settings for Decals with an inkjet is to see if it ( the printer) has a setting for decals if so use it. If not then I go for the highest resolution photo printing settings the printer can offer and select "plain Paper" or Matte Photo paper
Having said that My Canon ink jet has "decal paper" in its list but if I use it then the results are mediocre....
 
tramcar trev said:
So I'm not the only person who has had to do this? Encourageing.... Took me 10 hours to do the job.... Then I discovered that the roller was part of the toner cartridge assembly and could have easily been replaced....
I find the best settings for Decals with an inkjet is to see if it ( the printer) has a setting for decals if so use it. If not then I go for the highest resolution photo printing settings the printer can offer and select "plain Paper" or Matte Photo paper
Having said that My Canon ink jet has "decal paper" in its list but if I use it then the results are mediocre....
Click to expand...

Trev,

Good thing it wasn't a rabbit on the work printer :D ;D ;D

Where do you get your paper from?
I have a Canon inkjet and this sounds exactly what I have been looking for.
 
Had it been unauthorised use of a Government printer I would simply have denied all knowledge....
The Decal paper can be got from Office Works or eBay. I get mine from this crowd;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-CLEAR-WHITE-INKJET-Waterslide-Decal-Paper-CANDLES-MODELS-SOAP-WINDOWS-/320823923979?pt=AU_Candle_Soap_Making&hash=item4ab298950b&_uhb=1

You may find pigmented inks give the best durability.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom