Track Planning software ?
- Thread starter Steve
- Start date
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
Re:Track Building software ?
What I do is draw a small part of my layout using Anyrail, in 1:10 or 1:12 scale, reduce it to 1:50, then using File/Export, convert the file to a .jpg, and save it. I then draw the other sections and join them all together using Programs/Accesories/Paint.
Cheating a little, but it does for me....
I don't believe so Steve? The software firms let you have the free version as a taster, hoping you'll then fork out for the full, all siging and dancing version.Steve said:
What I do is draw a small part of my layout using Anyrail, in 1:10 or 1:12 scale, reduce it to 1:50, then using File/Export, convert the file to a .jpg, and save it. I then draw the other sections and join them all together using Programs/Accesories/Paint.
Cheating a little, but it does for me....
LittleRedTrain
Registered
I use XTrkCad http://www.xtrkcad.org/Wikka/HomePa... used to, but once you have, it does the job.
LittleRedTrain
Registered
homestyal said:
I think the LGB library comes with it.
Go to File Menu -> Parameter Files.
The 'Parameter Files' window will appear.
Click 'Browse' and select 'lgb.xtp' and click OK. [If you can't find it, it should be in the [XTrkCad install dir]params
Ensure it is checked in the Parameter Files box, and click OK.
Then go to Options Menu -> Layout
Select 'G' for your scale, 'Standard' for the gauge, and click OK.
The LGB parts should then appear in the toolbar at the top.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Re:Track Building software ?
Blimey, I didn't realise you were real Yorkshire, Gizz
Gizzy said:
Blimey, I didn't realise you were real Yorkshire, Gizz
Thanks LRT.
dunnyrail said:
Jon - I use RailModeller (on OSX 10.6.2); not free but v. easy to use.
http://www.railmodeller.com/Buy.html
Cheers
David
3Valve
Railways; Air cooled VW's; Soul Music
Re:Track Building software ?
There are ways you can sort of beat or manipulate the 50 piece restriction without breaching copyright laws.
Try to use the maximum length possible on yer straight runs (i.e. there are places on my railway where I have 1200mm straights connected to 300mm striaghts, but in Anyrail I put in 1500mm straights to save a a few pieces).
If I'm still short of track to achieve my plan I export the plan as a jpeg image file then continue editing the plan using any standard jpeg editing tool (as per Gizzy's post earlier).
You can copy and paste a lot of stuff once you've exported it.
Another method I use is split my entire plan into two or more separate Anyrail files (the restriction is 50 pieces per plan not 50 pieces total). You can then export your separate plans out as jpeg's and splice them together using your jpeg editing software (even a basic app like MS Paint will get you a decent result once you've exported the anyrail files).
There are ways you can sort of beat or manipulate the 50 piece restriction without breaching copyright laws.
Try to use the maximum length possible on yer straight runs (i.e. there are places on my railway where I have 1200mm straights connected to 300mm striaghts, but in Anyrail I put in 1500mm straights to save a a few pieces).
If I'm still short of track to achieve my plan I export the plan as a jpeg image file then continue editing the plan using any standard jpeg editing tool (as per Gizzy's post earlier).
You can copy and paste a lot of stuff once you've exported it.
Another method I use is split my entire plan into two or more separate Anyrail files (the restriction is 50 pieces per plan not 50 pieces total). You can then export your separate plans out as jpeg's and splice them together using your jpeg editing software (even a basic app like MS Paint will get you a decent result once you've exported the anyrail files).
Bredebahn
Cinema, Garden Railway, Private Flying (licenced p
Re:Track Building software ?
I have never used trackplanning software in my life! Complex sections can easily be drawn to approximate scale (on squared paper if necessary) and plain track can be better estimated along the proposed (real) trackbed with cardboard cutouts if you need to, or a simple tape measure if you don't. I always found that by laying complex junctions and station layouts first, then the remainder could safely be laid going away from these and the only time that precision was required was when it came to joining the ends - in any event I would suggest that track planning software would only be of minimal help here (though useful in calculating quantity perhaps) and it would be the hacksaw that would be more useful.
Don't be limited in your layout by what is and isn't possible without cutting rails. Design what you want and cut to fit if need be - it will look a lot less "trainset set-track" like. Having said that, I would agree that premade pointwork isn't to be messed with a hack-saw (on grounds of cost primarily), but plain rail in between won't present you with a problem and won't have any serious cost implication (in fact it'll probably save you a lot of money as you won't have to seek out those very short sections which cost an arm and a leg to buy premade for what they are).
I have never used trackplanning software in my life! Complex sections can easily be drawn to approximate scale (on squared paper if necessary) and plain track can be better estimated along the proposed (real) trackbed with cardboard cutouts if you need to, or a simple tape measure if you don't. I always found that by laying complex junctions and station layouts first, then the remainder could safely be laid going away from these and the only time that precision was required was when it came to joining the ends - in any event I would suggest that track planning software would only be of minimal help here (though useful in calculating quantity perhaps) and it would be the hacksaw that would be more useful.
Don't be limited in your layout by what is and isn't possible without cutting rails. Design what you want and cut to fit if need be - it will look a lot less "trainset set-track" like. Having said that, I would agree that premade pointwork isn't to be messed with a hack-saw (on grounds of cost primarily), but plain rail in between won't present you with a problem and won't have any serious cost implication (in fact it'll probably save you a lot of money as you won't have to seek out those very short sections which cost an arm and a leg to buy premade for what they are).
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
Re:Track Building software ?
8| Forget the software, I didn't even use a tape measure to set out this triangle/wye. Basically, the LGB geometry made it easy, even with a few reverse curves in there.
:impatient: Mind you, I used to set out tracks in 12" to the foot scale for a living.... yes, there was a time when tracks were being put in, rather than being taken out.
8| Forget the software, I didn't even use a tape measure to set out this triangle/wye. Basically, the LGB geometry made it easy, even with a few reverse curves in there.
:impatient: Mind you, I used to set out tracks in 12" to the foot scale for a living.... yes, there was a time when tracks were being put in, rather than being taken out.