Outdoor raised layout planning

[Derek_Koett]

Hello, I am working on an outdoor layout that will sit on top of several tables in my front yard. I already have the first set of tables and have a foundation started for a mountain in one corner, but want to take advantage of the space that I have and extend the tables. I have some things in mind that I want to consider in this plan:
- I want to be able to reach the train from at least one of the edges at any given time
- I want adequate space for a "town"/buildings that are accessible from the inner portion of the layout - this is currently where the controls reside, and my son and I have been having quite a bit of fun playing in there while the train loops around us
- This plan can be broken down into "phases", so that I can build out another area, position new track and prepare the next area while keeping it operational. I want minimal down-time where the track is disconnected.

Here is the current state - you can see one path through the mountain and another in front of the mountain. Not sure if this will be feasible once the face of the mountain is established. There is plenty of room here for buildings to be placed on the south and east sides of the tables.


This picture shows that I can continue building in the south direction - technically I could extend south approximately 40', but there is a decent slope and either the tables get smaller and smaller, or I stop at a certain point where the grade is too steep.


On the west side, there is approximately 8' of buildable space, but I want to be able to walk around and potentially use this area for storage like the shelf seen here.


The north side has a lot of potential as well - about 20' before you get to a tree, but beyond that it just continues down the hill. You can see it is currently occupied with my wood pile. On the east side, I don't want to extend more that ~3ft in that direction so that I can still drive between the train layout and this playhouse we have.


Here are some mockups I put together from feedback in my first thread. The idea of the hinges here is so that I can place more buildings or other terrain / have another flat surface for my son to play with toys.



Not sure if this is electrically sound - put a connection between and added a stop to park some rolling stock.




I am a novice in planning layouts and am excited to discuss various options and learn how to plan a successful outdoor layout.

 

[Gizzy]

You have a couple of reversing loops there with a reversal chord added to the larger loop.

This can cause electrical polarity issues. You will need polarity modules to solve this. These modules are different for DC and DCC controlled layouts.

As a rule of thumb, reversing loops need to be able to hold your longest train....

 

[Derek_Koett]

This can cause electrical polarity issues.

Got it - thanks for the explanation. I am planning to run DC for now. I have made another mockup that should alleviate these polarity issues, keeping it simple.

My thought is if I go with something like this, I will be focusing my investment on additional track which I can reuse in the future.

 

[PhilP]

That makes a lot of sense..
Adding reverse loops, can get quite complicated, quite quickly. - Especially when first starting out.

You can add an (electrical) switch just inside the siding. - you only need to break one rail, and can 'park' a second train there.

PhilP.

 

[korm kormsen]

looks to me, like you are starting something permanent.
i ignore, how much rain you get in your area, but in my opinion one of the longtime problempoints is, where wooden table legs meet the dirt.
do you know these concrete blocks, that are placed upon the earth, and forming a kind of shoe for the table-legs?

 

[Gerard]

Derek,

There is a great chance your table constructions won't last very long due to weather conditions.
I do not want to bring down your optimistic approach but you should really be carefull in using wooden constructions out in your garden! Unless you use real weather proof materials all constructions will fall in pieces after some years.
Here is my advice: use stainless steel constructions with wheather proof plate material like TRESPA plate or similar.
I myself decided to put all track on concrete slabs along the side of the lawns.
My friend Rainer used stainless steel poles/wires to carry his railway and he filled the gap between railway en ground with some nice plants so it looks like he runs his train on dikes!
You can read all about these proven solutions in our book "Our Model Garden Railway":

Our Model Garden Railway A5: A5 : Schrieck, Gerard van der, Kleinsteuber, Rainer: Amazon.nl: Books

Our Model Garden Railway A5: A5 : Schrieck, Gerard van der, Kleinsteuber, Rainer: Amazon.nl: Books

www.amazon.nl

Kind Regards,
Bart (Gerad)

 

[pugwash]

It all looks good so far but I would make one suggestion, try to avoid curves under the mountain or if that is not possible make the tunnel only two arms length long so you can recover the inevitably derailed trains.
And buy more locomotives, there is no such thing as too many.

 

[GAP]

Want to use a lift up bridge?
This is how I did mine

7. Stage 2- June 2020 The Lift Up Bridge Rail Decks are Built

After proving the concept of the hinge mechanism, work started on building the rail decks. Aluminium was the chosen material primarily beca...

ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com

6. Stage 2- May 2020 The Lift Up Bridge is Redesigned Again

After I put pictures of the MKII design on a Garden Railway forum a question was asked about the pivot height. When I revisited the de...

ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com

This is the detail of the hinge



I have 5 lift ups on my layout the one shown and 4 others that let me close the roller door on my shed. I am considering another lift section so I can expand a bench, lowered when running and able to be raised to allow me to walk through.

6. 19 December 2024 The Upper Line Reaches the Shed.

The Upper Level is now complete as seen previously the track is supported by galvanised steel "C" purlin. Either side of the purlin treate...

ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com

Lower Level hinges

 

[Derek_Koett]

For all reading the post, the neighborhood has a property owner's association (POA) that has rules around permanent structures, where I would have to submit plans and get approvals and what-not from them. By not attaching concrete to the ground, or other serious landscaping, these are considered "non-permanent" structures. I understand that building this way does have other drawbacks, and I will likely face challenges in the future caused by building with wood.

do you know these concrete blocks, that are placed upon the earth, and forming a kind of shoe for the table-legs?

Yes, I have used those for a couple sheds and a playhouse that I build in other areas of my yard, but the way I built these tables specifically, they do not fit. I started a sort of experiment 4 years ago where I used these ground contact rated 4"x4" posts where I did not use the concrete blocks for a small building covering my pool equipment and they have held up fine. It is very dry where I live and they are essentially placed on rock.

I do not want to bring down your optimistic approach but you should really be carefull in using wooden constructions out in your garden! Unless you use real weather proof materials all constructions will fall in pieces after some years.

Thank you for the suggestions! I will have to balance cost, longevity, and the POA rules.

if that is not possible make the tunnel only two arms length long so you can recover the inevitably derailed trains

Thanks for the reminder! I don't think I will fully enclose the tunnel, rather have a view into "inside" of the mountain from the back side. Either way, will try to keep the under the mountain bit as straight as possible.

 

[GAP]

It all looks good so far but I would make one suggestion, try to avoid curves under the mountain or if that is not possible make the tunnel only two arms length long so you can recover the inevitably derailed trains.
And buy more locomotives, there is no such thing as too many.

I did one in HO and had lift up flaps so I could get into it it was the full width of the table it was on.

 

[Derek_Koett]

Want to use a lift up bridge?

Oh I like this idea a lot - I will review the posts on your blog. This is a very useful feature, thank you for sharing!

 

[maxi-model]

I do not have a railroad that is on large tables like yours but I do have one that the front is one giant timber faced L shaped "planter". You might want to consider providing provision for cutouts in your boards, within or outside the trackage, where you can place planters, shallow or deep. These you could fill with small shrubs and dwarf conifers, ones that suit the climate in your area to provide "natural" features. Also good to get kids involved in plant care. Your local garden centre will be able to advise you.

There are a couple of portable indoor show layouts in the UK that use plants, one uses artificial in planters the other real plants growing in shallow removable trays inset to the layout. One of the things that gives me pleasure is the planting and maintainance of suitably sized shrubs and conifers to create effects. Or, making features of larger trees to create "groto" type effects. Max

The conifers in the background are in planters set behind a raised part of my layout. One way to hide a wall and fill out a picture.

Veiw from the other side, when under construction. The front 30" depth is essentially constructed as a giant planter, with the front faced/constrained by oak sleepers. This was constructed to raise the front of the garden to eliminate a steep gradient created after a concrete capped path, in the foreground was removed.

"Grotto" under 18' conifers. I didn't read the "average growth over 10 years" on the lable. 18' ! Always read the lable

 

[maxi-model]

Oh I like this idea a lot - I will review the posts on your blog. This is a very useful feature, thank you for sharing!

Split-Jaw in the US do a "lift out" product for this use. I have a couple of lift out bridges that use the Hilman equivelent. The one at the rear has only been recently converted Code 332 Drop-In Lift-Out Rail Clamp (pair) | www.RAILCLAMP.com Max.

 

[pugwash]

I don't think I will fully enclose the tunnel, rather have a view into "inside" of the mountain from the back side. Either way, will try to keep the under the mountain bit as straight as possible.

I did one in HO and had lift up flaps so I could get into it it was the full width of the table it was on.

Yes I thought of the removable flap idea when I looked back at the original photos. They would be easy to fit (certainly easier than trying to get at a train) and if the inside of the tunnel and flaps were painted black the effect should be good. Of course a further advantage of the flap is that they can be moved out of the way to watch the trains going through the tunnel which is great play value for junior.