G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
- 5 Jun 2013
The "goop" i am using is "polimax high tack", (not the cheapest stuff, at work sometimes a tube "disappear")a putty that will stiffen up and not rot, probably the wood (for sure) and the alu is sooner gone than the putty.Is the rail section a tight-ish fit without it. - If not, I fear either metal to goop, or wood to goop, may fail out in the garden?
Not sure about the large perpendicular slots where the rail crosses the tie at an angle. - I know why you have done it this way, but question if it will last?
No problem, i did not do it also, but a thought, even far away, could be a solution!OK, you want some feedback..
BUT...... I have never made my own track!
Standardts? Still must dive into it, i thought it was pretty straightforward....like always....nope.So what track and wheel standards are you following?
And out of curiosity, what is the frog number of these?
The parts of the rail hanging down below the top of the ties will give you hell with dirt and ballast.
Another possibility is to drill thru the end of sleeper and thru the rail and glue a panel pin in the hole to provide a mechanical fastening . On the 16mm web site there is a good video about making turnouts Also worth looking at TOYMAN Television he makes his own track and turnouts Toy Man Television
YO WOW....easy Fonzie...don't over estimated my technical english on this subject......That's a good start but now you need to refine it if you expect it to be trouble free.
Your point 'toes' seem to be also ground on the inside. Not so easily done only on one side with a file to get a long taper for them to sit flush against the stock rails. A milling set-up would be best.
Better for your point rails near the throw bar slide on top of a smooth surface rather than the wood ties alone. They also need to be attached to the throw bar so they won't pull up on mishaps.
Your 'closure rails' that lead to the frog are not lined up with the point of the frog. The geometry of the 'crossing' is a bit weird all round and probably the worse aspect here.
Your wing and guard/check rails gap should be made according to back to back wheel standards of some sort. NMRA comes to mind.
Your 'wing rails' adjacent to the frog need to flare out to 'catch' the wheels better like your gaurd/check rails do on the stock rails. (They perhaps could do with more of a bend too)
I am also concerned with the casual slots relying on the 'goop' to keep all true. This is where welding the rails together (not for track power) is probably best as wood and 'goop' will age and move making tolerances go out.
Thank you, but the job does not come easy ready.Nice job. time will tell how sustainable it is in a Garden environment 24/7/365. With the metal connector at the Tie Rod I am assuming that you will be live steam or battery power. Have you thought about how to operate the points. Hand Lever, Electric Motor or Air Motor bay far the most expensive but easiest to set up.
Sunset Valley in the US are about the only ones I know of these days.Thank you, but does not come easy.
Yes your assumptions are right, live steam and battery operated.
I would like to operate mu points at electric motor, servo 27mc to 430mc or something...stil must go into that, i would like to run my locos at a rc, i bought some chinesum rc stuff that works up til now.
Deltang has nice equipment too, probably a lot better(fine tuned from the same supplier?).
Air motor bay? i will look into that one!
A small difference of opinion, most large scale switches are NOT flange bearing.
Non flange bearing:
- USA Trains
- Sunset Valley
- LLagas creek
there may be more... in more categories, but I would argue most are not flange bearing
- cheap LGB clones
The problem with flange bearing, is all your flanges need to be the same depth... so all LGB rolling stock and LGB switches ok...
Mix and match... not ok... and if the switch design relies on flange bearing for smooth operation, and you have smaller flanges, then not so good operation...