Track clamps
- Thread starter Kev Green
- Start date
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
I think I'd remove them. The object of the exercise is to get the best electrical current passing, so to put a clamp over a fishplate means that there are two potential layers for poor metal to metal contact.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
do not use over the joiner clamps, you have a system that can help clamp dirt in the original joiner, and it does not touch the rails, just the joiner you are already striving to eliminate.
the issue with stock joiners is not pressure (which is the only thing an over the joiner clamp adds), but dirt ingress and oxidation.
Might as well as buy a jar of Lucas Magic Smoke.
Greg
the issue with stock joiners is not pressure (which is the only thing an over the joiner clamp adds), but dirt ingress and oxidation.
Might as well as buy a jar of Lucas Magic Smoke.
Greg
Yes removing fishplates the best option. There are painless methods to remove them listed elsewhere in here. Lok at this link post #44
www.gscalecentral.net
This is the only method I have come across that neither trashes fishplates nor does it damage point internal wiring.
Short Track Pieces
Having scoured the internet, I came up with a couple of ideas, and believe this one is quicker for straight and curved rail, and the fishplate remains in tact, photos to explain: First the track length with the fishplate and a short length of spare rail: Inset to spare rail in the fishplate...
www.gscalecentral.net
Monty
Registered
Totally unintentional...
A group of engineers were standing round the first car, looking at the rats-nest of wires.
One of them pulled his pipe out of his mouth, jabbed it in the general direction of the shirt-sleeved techie, trying to make it work, and said:
"Are you positive, that's the earth?"
The rest is history..
PhilP
A group of engineers were standing round the first car, looking at the rats-nest of wires.
One of them pulled his pipe out of his mouth, jabbed it in the general direction of the shirt-sleeved techie, trying to make it work, and said:
"Are you positive, that's the earth?"
The rest is history..
PhilP
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Was that the real reason they changed to negative earth?
Genuine question, I never knew what caused that change
Cobalt6700
Registered
As far as I was aware; the change from positive to negative earth was partly down to galvanic corrosion - anodes (posative) have a much lower resistance to corrosion than cathodes (this is why Zinc is used as a sacrificial annode to help prevent corrsion elsewhere on marine craft).
Also, most modern tech has a common negative/ground connection for current return, which is much easier to 'deal with' (espically fault currents) though a large grounded body than many little ground wires.
Also, most modern tech has a common negative/ground connection for current return, which is much easier to 'deal with' (espically fault currents) though a large grounded body than many little ground wires.
God only knows. My 1300 was positive earthed and was rotten. Apparently they started being made as negative earth, but BMC, in their wisdom, changed it. What advantages positive earth has, I've no idea, but it obviously isn't worth ruining the car for
Greg Elmassian
Guest
There is a thread here that was an extensive discussion. Try a search.
Software Tools
Registered
Drill out the "dimple" on the bottom of the rail joiner and then pull it off laterally with pliers.
Slawman
Deckline
On my plates, there is a little 90 degree flange (part of the fishplate) which sits in the first plastic sleeper. If you pull the plate out it will tear the plastic (that's the problem). I event been able to find the other thread Greg....
Look at post 4 on this thread where I have linked my method as seen on YouTube.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Normally this will straighten as it is SHARPLY pulled, however ensure the track is held firmly. Thought for points I do prefer just to bend the sides away.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
As post #13. Pull the joiner with a snipe nosed pair of pliers, in line with the rail. Do not twist. Tab will unfold as you pull. Never broken or damaged tjhe sleepers or chars that way. Even track that has been out for years. To misquote an old ad', "It's in the wrist inaction", The things my mind dredges up
Software Tools
Registered
The only plastic that will tear is a small part that is of no further use once you have removed the rail joiner. The lateral pull will straighten out the bent over brass tab at the end of the joiner.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Ahh... that is a matter of opinion, you tear a piece of the tie and weaken it.
most people don't like this weakening of the tie.
You can always straighten the brass tab, but why? if you are using the joiner again, you either want it bent a bit to facilitate the re-insertion, or break it off to be done with the stupid tab.
Greg
most people don't like this weakening of the tie.
You can always straighten the brass tab, but why? if you are using the joiner again, you either want it bent a bit to facilitate the re-insertion, or break it off to be done with the stupid tab.
Greg
