track advice
- Thread starter Paul_Kirk
- Start date
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
You don't need anything "special", Paul, all good brands of G scale track are designed for long term outdoor use. If you stick to Code 332 rail (the "standard" originally set by LGB) then pretty much all makes and brands will happily interconnect - LGB, Piko, USA Trains, Trainline45, Aristocraft (now defunct but still available second-hand) and several others. There are a few types that use smaller profile rail - Code 250 or even 200 - such as Tenmille or Peco (the UK one, as distinct from the German Piko) - which some folks use, but for my money I'd stick with Code 332 brass track. Don't be afraid of buying second-hand track, even "well used" and weathered stuff can be brought back to life with a bit of elbow grease and a cleaning block, as long as it's not too physically damaged.
There used to be a bit of a rule of thumb that you'd pay around 5 quid a foot for new track, and 3 quid a foot for used - but that seems to have gone up quite a bit, and I've seen new track going for anything up to about £10 a foot now... this can make decent used track an even more attractive proposition!
Are you going to be using track power (DC or DCC) or battery (and/or live steam)?
Jon.
There used to be a bit of a rule of thumb that you'd pay around 5 quid a foot for new track, and 3 quid a foot for used - but that seems to have gone up quite a bit, and I've seen new track going for anything up to about £10 a foot now... this can make decent used track an even more attractive proposition!
Are you going to be using track power (DC or DCC) or battery (and/or live steam)?
Jon.
playmofire
Registered
First, welcome to the board, Paul, and as you'll find out it's a good place for asking questions and, when you've got the answers, posting photos of how you followed them up.
Your second question first, LGB track is fine indoors and out, widely used and widely available.
Now your first question, answered, initially, by another question - where in the UK are you? If there is a supplier of LGB locally and you're buying new track, it may be cheaper to buy there overall than buy lower priced track from further away and have to pay postage/ delivery charges.
And then another answer in the form of a question - are you wanting new or used track? If the latter or a mix of the two, then eBay can give you some good bargains but, as always when buying anywhere, buyer beware - check feedback, remember postage/delivery, closely scrutinise any photos and be willing to ask questions.
EDIT: Zerogee was faster answering, so apologies for any repetition in my post and I see you answered my question as to where you are in your profile, Swansea.
Canyon City
Registered
Hi Paul, do you want to run using DCC, battery power, or live steam? Brass tracks tarnish and turn black—they get dirty—so if you're running DCC, you'll have to clean them.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Wellcome Paul. Seems like a there may be repetition here as I was composing this. Couple of points. Tenmille do make a code 332 track (code = rail height in thou' of inch) but the rail profile is different from LGB and all those other compatible.Needs adapters. Sounds like you are buildng a large layout. You may want to look at using "flexi" track, made by LGB and others, rather tha the set fixed profiles. Gives you a lot more scope for layout design and less bits, track comes in 1.5 metre llengths, bend aand cut to your requirements. You will need to aquire a track bender with type of track. Try to keep curve radii above 4ft and use points with 6ft radius (LGB R5). If you haven't thought of them already use proper track clamps to connect track sections rather than the usually supplied "fishplate" push connectors. Massoth make them, as do others, easy to fit and keeps track in alignment and helps maintain track conductivity over time. Next ! Max
thanks to all for very helpful replies, much appreciated. I think the flexi track idea sounds good for my application - the layout idea is a quarry at one end and a port at the other, so trucks loaded with stone at the quarry are transported to port by rail. The layout will be mainly straight as it runs along the pine end of the house and turns the corner for the long straight to the quarry.
I have some hobby electronics and microcontroller programming experience and I fancy making power available from a battery in a truck rather than having track based power. I also like the idea of control from a mobile phone app. I don't want to reinvent the wheel though, so I'll have to explore power and control options as I go along.
Thanks again, all the best,
Paul
I have some hobby electronics and microcontroller programming experience and I fancy making power available from a battery in a truck rather than having track based power. I also like the idea of control from a mobile phone app. I don't want to reinvent the wheel though, so I'll have to explore power and control options as I go along.
Thanks again, all the best,
Paul
Jasper
Hey, I'm only being creative here!
I don't know what this means, but I like how it sounds.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Well, running "dead rails" with battery power (there are many different ways of doing this) means that you don't have to worry so much about the biggest bugbear of the track-powered fraternity, which is keeping the track clean! As long as you keep the track physically clear of debris, dead rail running is a great deal easier in that respect - especially if you have a low-level line and a less-than-youthful back...
Jon.
Welcome to the forum Paul, as you are starting out dead rail with battery power is a good bet. Though there are limited phone options and any using WiFi do have limited range as do a couple of the more well known other makes such as Piko and Crest formerly by Aristo. I have locs powered by these and also Micron that has much better range but my preferred option is Fosworks. Very much depends on whether you want to watch your trains or just look at a phone or pad whilst you trains are running.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I used code 332 flex track exclusively for my main layout and code 250 for my second layout (I inherited it from a friend) I found it so much easier to fit the track to the road bed than the other way round.
My layout is point to point a but with 2 levels to fit more track in, it has "yards" at either end for shunting operations to add some more interest.
My locos are battery powered R/C controlled chosen mainly because of keeping track clean in my climate would have been a nightmare, it was bad enough on my indoor HO layout.
I to am using microcontrollers (picaxe and arduino) for point control and a raspberry pi for a display and as a wifi access point for remote points.
Looking forward to see what you do with your layout.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Echoing others here, I started track powered, the regular track cleaning regime required was fairly easy when I got going over 20 years ago. However, with age over time it became a bit of a chore. That and the corrosive effects of the British climate, just the way brass tarnishes with all that water and dirt getting in the way of electrons passing. You can get stainless steel rail but that can get pricey. 5 years ago I made the switch to radio control and battery operation, I was already mixing in live steam operation. Some of my locos used a fully self contained installation, some a battery trailer car. Yes very handy the latter, especially with the more compact, and tenderless, bits of motive power you might be using. There are various battery chemistry types to choose from, NiMH and LiPo being the most prominent. Each having its pros and cons. Control options are very much horses for courses. I think most favour a 2.4 Ghz transmitter, with their recievers controlling onboard speed controllers and accessories like a sound card because of range and reliability. Those transmitters, individually, now can handle multiple loco control and even that of DCC based control units with the extra functionality they offer. But other types, as you may be more confident with, are advancing quickly. But back to the track, whatever method of power you opt for don't stint on using track clamps, they really stop the whole lot decending into a shambles. Early convert there. Max
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Hi Paul, and welcome to the Forum! I have very little to add to the advice given above other than to suggest that, if you opt for flexi-track (of any make) you also budget for a twin-rail bender. They are eye-wateringly expensive, but a) can be sold on afterwards or b) are so invaluable that you will never dream of selling! There are other makes and suppliers, but here's an example:
www.grsuk.com
Track Bender II G (332) and 1 (250) code | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158
Track Bender II G (332) and 1 (250) code
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Or, single rail bender, for code 332 rail only, not 250 as well, from same source. A little more work but a little more budget orientatedHi Paul, and welcome to the Forum! I have very little to add to the advice given above other than to suggest that, if you opt for flexi-track (of any make) you also budget for a twin-rail bender. They are eye-wateringly expensive, but a) can be sold on afterwards or b) are so invaluable that you will never dream of selling! There are other makes and suppliers, but here's an example:
Track Bender II G (332) and 1 (250) code | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158
Track Bender II G (332) and 1 (250) code
I have an earlier version I bought 22 years ago from same supplier, bit cheaper then. The "bending" wheels are profiled to match that of LGB's and its compatible makes. And no, I would never sell it. Max
(E)Rail bender kit with LGB code 332 G-Scale | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158
(E)Rail bender kit with LGB code 332 G-Scale
Hal Farsed
D.P. Gumby.
Can I just mention that it would be wise to steer clear of Bachmann's hollow steel track? It will not survive outside for more than a couple of years. Mind, I haven't seen any for sale for a while. It's probably all rusted away! AFAIK their brass rail is fine.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
Another thing with flex track is that you can solder two pieces of rail together then fit sleepers and bend them around a large radius curve the solder stops the joint from kinking.
I used some brass to make oversized joiners to give me strength.
While I do have a rail bender I hardly used it for long lengths just relied on the good old Mk one belly bender. ot a few bruises but it was worth it.
I used some brass to make oversized joiners to give me strength.
While I do have a rail bender I hardly used it for long lengths just relied on the good old Mk one belly bender. ot a few bruises but it was worth it.
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