To crimp or solder
- Thread starter Shunter46
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Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Solder, every time - but, if you want to use crimp connectors for ease of disconnection, then use a bit of solder in the collar of the crimped connector.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Realize crimping on stranded wire still is not "gas tight" since the individual strands still have some air space between them.
crimp, then solder.... mechanical connection before electrical connection.
greg
crimp, then solder.... mechanical connection before electrical connection.
greg
Just order a good quality ratchet crimper, arriving tomorrow. So I will try both as suggested on this forum.
Yes crimping solid cores isnt the best of things to do, so crimp then solder.
May I ask what brand of crimper and crimps/ferrules you would reccomend?
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Having said that, some crimped connectors have the coloured heat protective shroud all the way over the spade, while some only have it over the collar. Over the collar is best if you are going to solder the wire once crimped. Like this
There are some delightful pitfalls with crimped connectors as I have found out. While it is fairly common knowledge that the three colours relate to the size of wire that is to be used, when using spade connectors, there are in fact three widths of connector
While the width is of little technical interest for the sort of current we're using, you need to make sure that the male and female are the same width 
Hutch
G Gauge, Raising Peaches, Apricots
There was a former United States based Train Vendor that "over crimped" the connecters. This would cause the wire to open up inside the insulation collar. Although securely attached by the collar, no electricity could get through. Often referred to as the "non conductive mid air splice".Having said that, some crimped connectors have the coloured heat protective shroud all the way over the spade, while some only have it over the collar. Over the collar is best if you are going to solder the wire once crimped. Like this
View attachment 276439
There are some delightful pitfalls with crimped connectors as I have found out. While it is fairly common knowledge that the three colours relate to the size of wire that is to be used, when using spade connectors, there are in fact three widths of connector
---Hutch
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yeah, I was a bit concerned by the talk of ratchet crimping tools - I only have a simple had crimp tool and that's adequate
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I'm not familiar with what is available over there, but here we have connectors with the same type of "crimp area".
The business end can be open, closed (ring), or a male or female "spade" (in 3 different sizes), bullet, and splice are the ones I can think of off the top of my head (and I have here)
In the use, there are usually 3 basic sizes for wire gauge, color coded to red, blue, yellow (small to large wire gauge)
The crimp I use basically punctures the center (not on the split side) and compresses it.
The cheap crimpers just smash these into an oval, very poor, the wires will slip out.
There is a specific tool with a "finger" that adds pressure to the crimp, but more importantly "locks" wires from pulling out.... see the "indent here"
The business end can be open, closed (ring), or a male or female "spade" (in 3 different sizes), bullet, and splice are the ones I can think of off the top of my head (and I have here)
In the use, there are usually 3 basic sizes for wire gauge, color coded to red, blue, yellow (small to large wire gauge)
The crimp I use basically punctures the center (not on the split side) and compresses it.
The cheap crimpers just smash these into an oval, very poor, the wires will slip out.
There is a specific tool with a "finger" that adds pressure to the crimp, but more importantly "locks" wires from pulling out.... see the "indent here"
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The ones I have used at work for many years now (and TBH really need to be renewed) are from RS Components.
One small tip, don't pinch some skin whilst using ratchet crimped, I wont need to tell you how I know, but the resulting blood and pain just isn't worth it
Thank you. I've got a draper rachet, but the crimps I've got just don't hold the wires! Was there a specific brand at rs you used?
Greg Elmassian
Guest
- RS Stock No. 136-7425 is ok but not great...
In looking at Amazon UK, I see the Draper 35574, and that one will definitely let wires pull out. The draper 67652 is really poor, that is the type I see over here, and it is never good on insulated terminals.
The problem is made worse with insulated terminals, all you do is tear up and move the insulation, with poor crimping on the metal part.
Try this one:
Neiko 02037A Compact 4-in-1 Multi-Purpose Wire Service Tool | Gripper, Cutter, Stripper, Crimper - - Amazon.com
Neiko 02037A Compact 4-in-1 Multi-Purpose Wire Service Tool | Gripper, Cutter, Stripper, Crimper - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
And use the "bare" part on the insulated unit, then the insulated part to re-form the insulation as needed.
Greg
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I put up a page on crimping, showing how the crimper makes a positive lock on the wires:
elmassian.com
Greg
Soldering and crimping wires
Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers
Greg