Three into two?
- Thread starter Sarah Winfield
- Start date
Yes, unfortunately the wye formation requires polarity switching or an automatic reversing unit just like in your previous "fun" with reverse loops!
See Example 2 on this link. You shouldn't need the double gap on the straight part (the main line), due to the way the LGB points are wired.
DCC reverse sections
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Thank you.
I can see Greg hiding behind a DPDT switch though I can't say I blame him.
Once again I will try and sort out the wiring and switches myself.
SW
I can see Greg hiding behind a DPDT switch though I can't say I blame him.
Once again I will try and sort out the wiring and switches myself.
SW
Would the Digitrax AR1 work for me please?
Digitrax - SINGLE AUTO REVERSER (AR1) £23.00 from Coastal DCC Your Online Shop for DCC
SW
Digitrax - SINGLE AUTO REVERSER (AR1) £23.00 from Coastal DCC Your Online Shop for DCC
SW
No experience of this particular one, it says maximum 6 amp continuous and says it can work up to G scale. I think to be on the safe side assume 3 small LGB locos running at the same time in the switched section (the station in your case) with their smoke going.
Maybe wait a little and see if others respond with alternative suggestions which are known to work with G current and voltage?
Probably be ok but my issue would be what will you do to protect it from the weather?
Looks like it will do the job.
I know Kevin, the owner of Coastal DCC and he will help if you call him.
I would suggest you keep the device in a dry place, like a shed, as it doesn't look as robust as the LGB/Massoth unit....
Yep, should work, but HEED the warning about not connecting it to live power during installation...
http://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/autoreversing/ar1/documents/AR1.pdf
Greg
http://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/autoreversing/ar1/documents/AR1.pdf
Greg
Wot Greg say's....
Good habit to get into:
Turn OFF, and wait a minute, before connecting / disconnecting.. Especially if it involves going in with a screwdriver, where there is a chance of shorting something with said screwdriver, or a wire 'pinging' out of a connector and touching something it shouldn't.
Don't ask.. Been there.. Done it.. Paid for the replacement..
Good habit to get into:
Turn OFF, and wait a minute, before connecting / disconnecting.. Especially if it involves going in with a screwdriver, where there is a chance of shorting something with said screwdriver, or a wire 'pinging' out of a connector and touching something it shouldn't.
Don't ask.. Been there.. Done it.. Paid for the replacement..
I've put autoreversers into small buildings right near the gaps, which minimizes wire length, a small lineside shanty mostly sealed, with a way to vent moisture.
You can also try a waterproof box, but because the current limit adjuster may have to be accessed, not always convenient, and nothing is really waterproof. I have found it better to be in an enclosure that can purge moisture buildup and not take in a lot of moisture than fight the laws of physics of expansion/contraction/pressure
Greg
You can also try a waterproof box, but because the current limit adjuster may have to be accessed, not always convenient, and nothing is really waterproof. I have found it better to be in an enclosure that can purge moisture buildup and not take in a lot of moisture than fight the laws of physics of expansion/contraction/pressure
Greg
I put mine inside buildings too, up high near the roof space.
I also put the buildings on 'feet' (dome headed screws) so that air can flow underneath and moisture can escape....
In spite of all the suggestions I would think that Sarah would be better off mounting it in a small box in her Shed with wires extended to where they need to be which as far as I can remember will be pretty close. Better to be safe than sorry. I also think that most of the suggestions are comming from users of LGB or Massoth revercing units which sit in a small weather resistant (note not proof) box.
I think you are right, since she is not running a lot of current, the length of the wires won't drop too much voltage (but use adequate gauge at least).
I'd say the equivalent of our 16 gauge minimum, of course depending on the run... I think that 1.5 mm wire would be a good choice if you go any distance.
Greg
I'd say the equivalent of our 16 gauge minimum, of course depending on the run... I think that 1.5 mm wire would be a good choice if you go any distance.
Greg
I don't think Sarah will be, but to all...
DON'T leave power on for days and days... Although the slight heating of powered electronics will keep things (slightly) drier.. Or normally damp climate does not sit well with constantly powered low current electronics..
If you get condensation, there can be a migration of the copper tracks, due to electrolytic action.
DON'T leave power on for days and days... Although the slight heating of powered electronics will keep things (slightly) drier.. Or normally damp climate does not sit well with constantly powered low current electronics..
If you get condensation, there can be a migration of the copper tracks, due to electrolytic action.
At first I left the DCC power on 24/7... two things happened.... I found electrocuted frogs (real frogs) spanning the rails.... and it really accelerated the corrosion of the connections on the underside of switches. I use aristo switches, and they are a combination of stainless steel, steel, plated brass, and copper wire. Physics will tell you that different metals combined with moisture will cause electrolysis, and adding constant power is like pouring gasoline on a fire.
Greg
Greg
