I was hoping to buy a house in France and have another garden railway over there. It would have been nice to have the odd visiting enthusiast. Methinks I should cross you off the invite list - just in case!I electrocuted real frogs when I left my power on overnight once....
Ah, but, I have French blood from my Mother's side of the family?I was hoping to buy a house in France and have another garden railway over there. It would have been nice to have the odd visiting enthusiast. Methinks I should cross you off the invite list - just in case!
You are correct in your assumption. So by putting in the insulated joiners as you say all of the station tracks will be isolated from the main line (my continuous run).If I can make the assumption that the 3 tracks in the foreground do not connect to anything else, then you need insulators on both rails just past each of the switches from the mainline...
Yes.Please confirm the purpose of the DPDT switch. It is to maintain the correct polarity to the rails between the main line and the station?
An effective way of knowing 'which way' to throw the switch, is to mount it on your panel so that it switches left and right, rather than up and down. If you want to go to or from your sidings via the left hand track, set the switch left, and vice versa. Worked for me for years. Greg's suggestion of LEDs is a worthy one, not too difficult.... but let's get the basic switch working first, the LED is an easy 'addTherefore you need to determine which switch position is needed to "match" which of the 2 switches you are traversing from the main to your "station".
p.s. it might be worth re-reading the extensive thread we did on this before.