Textures A few good free sources

[beavercreek]

Although I like to paint and weather walls roofs etc myself, I am always on the lookout for good free textures to clad buildings etc.
Although there are good papers available for dolls houses, it is pretty hard to make them totally waterproof and also to protect them from fading.
So..
Using A4 sheets of laser (or inkjet with sealing) decal paper it is possible to either apply textures to plastic sheet or to use textured plastic (like corrugated, brick stone etc).
The examples on the sources below are large high definition can be 'Photoshopped' to make continuous sheets which do not appear repetitive. They can also be 'scaled' to fit the scale that we use.
It is best to spray the plastic surface with gloss varnish before applying the decal

Once the decal is made and is on the plastic sheet (or the side of a plastic building) a few coats of matt varnish will seal and protect from fading.
It is best to spray the plastic surface with gloss varnish before applying the decal

http://www.lughertexture.com/doors-hires-textures

http://texturer.com/

http://www.moodle.mullumtas.com/mod/data/view.php?id=177

This site allows you to make your own sheets of new brickwork based on brick styles. bonding and morter types of your choice:

http://paperbrick.co.uk/index.php?action=selectbrick

 

[beavercreek]

Yeah, paper/card printed textures can look very good, especially in the smaller scales or even on G-scale indoor layouts.
But the great outdoors can be a little tough for stuff that is not completely water stable
That's why I suggested using the decal paper on plastic sheet route as it is a totally plastic one and, as long as it is coated in a few coats of varnish, it will not fade too drastically (especially if it is out of direct sun).

 

[viaEstrecha]

Useful links, thank you. I like these, as there is no watermark to shop out, as you get with several download collections!

Now that I've had my first attempt at making my own transfers (sharp learning curve and a reprint is due to replace the ones I messed up first time around), I am getting more adventurous and will try your suggested technique. I also have a cheap 'Tesco Value' laminator (cost about a tenner) and have used it to make tiles for interior floors and walls, plus signage for buildings. I either frame the cut sides or varnish them but none has yet been outside for any length of time so I can't judge how well they will survive the UK climate.

 

[Dtsteam]

I used the paperbrick site to get a nice rough brick, and then laser printed that onto self adhesive waterproof paper - vinyl basically. After a couple of years there was some fading but at 60p per A4 sheet for paper and printing I could have replaced it after a while.

The vinyl was claimed to have "Marine adhesive", although why you would want stick brickpaper on a ship was beyond me. Suffice it to say, once it was stuck to a foamboard building, it wasn't for coming off.

So far my £110 cheapo colour laser is on 1200 pages, and the supplied cartridges are just going, so I reckon I've had value for money. I'd have had even more value for money if SWMBO hadn't printed a couple of copies of her dissertation mind you.

 

[cbeckett]

So far my £110 cheapo colour laser is on 1200 pages, and the supplied cartridges are just going, so I reckon I've had value for money. I'd have had even more value for money if SWMBO hadn't printed a couple of copies of her dissertation mind you.

There was tip on here the other day - when your printer "dies" there are lots of useful cogs and bits to go into your "accessories box". Better still, if it was a scanner/copier, there is a good light unit in there...

Can't remember who posted this tip, but I'll certainly be using it in the future!

 

[Edward]

There was tip on here the other day - when your printer "dies" there are lots of useful cogs and bits to go into your "accessories box". Better still, if it was a scanner/copier, there is a good light unit in there...

Can't remember who posted this tip, but I'll certainly be using it in the future!

Hi From Ed,

Can Anyone HELP Me find a replacement cog....!

YES, I've been looking for a replacement for the one which has split, Its Not easy to replace but any help would be appreciated...?

Attached are photos of the thing, it's a 16 Teeth drive cog from the main drive wheel of a Bachmann Engine the cog detention's are as follows:-

Cog radius is about 15mm

No of Teeth 16

Inside shaft hole is 6mm, that's the hole where the axel shaft is which the cog slides over or on too....!

I don't have a big budget, thus my contact no is:- 079 506 017 75, ( uk )

If the anyone who can help me find a replacement then do contact me, as I've renovated the Engine, and all I need to get it running is this impossible replacement cog, thanks for your help to all

 

[PhilP]

Ed,
No picture..
Which engine is it for, would help as well?

 

[Neil Robinson]

Hi From Ed,

Can Anyone HELP Me find a replacement cog....!

There's a guy called Tony le Grys who trades as "The Sparesman" and attends many of the shows including this year's GRail. If he can't help from his stock he may well be able to suggest a source.

 

[stockers]

The Spareman is listed in our Links section on here

 

[Edward]

Ed,
No picture..
Which engine is it for, would help as well?

Hi, Philip
I not much good with computers, Thus for photo If you message me on My e-mail account, I can send photos.
The Engine, I have modified, as it was old & dusty, Its the coal creek Engine, Where I've added a track crash thing on the front and wheels, under the drivers cab, It looks a lot better now, than It did when I got it.

For photos, of the cog, and the Engine, then do e-mail me on:- jacksoned39@hotmail.com
I am most pleased and thanks for your help, As its been 6 months since, I renovated this nice looking Engine
Regards Ed

 

[Edward]

Hi Phil,

Pic's are here of my repainted Coal creek Engine with broken cog wheel which is 6mm hole di for axel shaft, and 16teeth about 15mm radious of the cog
Regards Ed

 

[trammayo]

If you couldn't get hold of a new gear, there may be a possible solution. The shoulders of the gear seem wide enough to accept metal collars to pull it back into it's correct shape. Maybe a local model engineer could help you if all else fails?