Testing, testing, one, two, three,.....

S

Sarah Winfield

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I don't want to sound too flippant but it's a way of catching your eye.

I'm doing some experimentation with my Stainz and will explain later. In the meantime I notice how much smoother the locomotive is when using it with my Gaugemaster DC controller compared with the EZ?

Is that normal please?

Thanks,

Sarah Winfield
 
This morning I have summed up what is happening when I try to run my troublesome Stainz locomotive.

It involved using both my EZ DCC controller and my Gaugemaster DC controller. Not together I might add.

I had 3 set ups:-
1) using a single 4' length of freshly cleaned track the following was observed:
a) With the EZ - stuttery in either direction
b) With the Gaugemaster - would run but needed encouragement.

2) With the locomotive upside down in a cradle and the power fed directly to the skates:
a) With the EZ - first it seemed fine in both directions but for seemingly no reason the wheels began turning very fast.
b) With the Gaugemaster - after overcoming an initial reluctance it ran fine in reverse but going forwards it was very hesitant, needed encouragement and I could get no prolonged running.

3) With the locomotive right side up supported by it's couplings in my make-do box:
a) With my EZ - seemed at one stage to "hunt" and was very unpredictable.
b) With my Gaugemaster - Will run but only with encouragement.

Sorry but I just thought this might spark a fresh round of suggestion although being so unpredictable I have my doubts because there have been so many helpful comments.

Sarah Winfield

PS By encouragement I mean applying a finger to the wheels to overcome their reluctance to turn.
 
I am now reduced to doing a " Basil Faulty" on it!

I've shouted at it, beat it with an olive branch, threatened it with the car crusher, I've been making promises to it which I haven't the foggiest how I'll keep and even been nice to it.

Result? Like Monty Python's parrot nothing encouragingly significant.

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah, you really need to get somebody to look at this if you are going to continue pursuing the use of this loco. It seems (to me) to be electrical, but that could mean anything - contacts, the motor, brushes, chip, broken wire, dry joint. I really suggest as other have putting to one side and giving a stiff ignoring, but if you can't get it to a body that can strip and diagnose the fault fully, otherwise, you are going to drive yourself mad not having it working!!!
 
JimmyB said:
Sarah, you really need to get somebody to look at this if you are going to continue pursuing the use of this loco. It seems (to me) to be electrical, but that could mean anything - contacts, the motor, brushes, chip, broken wire, dry joint. I really suggest as other have putting to one side and giving a stiff ignoring, but if you can't get it to a body that can strip and diagnose the fault fully, otherwise, you are going to drive yourself mad not having it working!!!
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I agree - the whole issue is going round in ever-decreasing circles. Or rather, literally, it isn't, if you follow me ....
 
Isn't there some problem with Gaugemaster controllers and LGB ????........ I seem to recall some incompatibility with the two items?????......... Others will correct me, I'm sure
Dave
 
Tanker man said:
Isn't there some problem with Gaugemaster controllers and LGB ????........ I seem to recall some incompatibility with the two items?????......... Others will correct me, I'm sure
Dave
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Not that I know of. There was a problem with some of them overheating but that happened regardless of make of loco. That said I used one for years before going DCC with no problem at all.
 
I'm just trying to understand... the loco has a decoder in it, and the Bachmann EZ system puts out 0 stretched pulsed DCC to approximate DC, right?

So comparing it to a real DC throttle really is apples to oranges. Pulsed, transmogrified DCC signal (still AC), vs. this Gaugemaster DC throttle.. I went to the Gaugemaster site, and they have a number of "DC" throttles, but no description (that I found) if they are DC, PWM, or a combination.

But, clearly whatever the Gaugemaster is, it's much closer to DC than the address 10 of the Bachmann unit.

I would test on real DC, and if the loco does not run well, or runs differently in different directions, stop the experimentation with power, stay with DC and troubleshoot the mechanism. Bypass the wheels and attach power to the track pickup wires.

It really seems you are trying all different kinds of things, but the process you are using is not leading you to solving the problem.

I hope this helps.

Greg
 
Greg, every-bodies suggestions, comments and efforts to assist me has helped and I grateful for their input.

I have now put the locomotive away and I going to concentrate on my garden layout. I'm still hope a local expert will have a look at it for me otherwise it'll have to be sent away for further investigation.

Sarah Winfield
 
I think that's a very wise move, Sarah - just enjoy running your other locos while the good weather lasts!

Jon.
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Greg, every-bodies suggestions, comments and efforts to assist me has helped and I grateful for their input.

I have now put the locomotive away and I going to concentrate on my garden layout. I'm still hope a local expert will have a look at it for me otherwise it'll have to be sent away for further investigation.

Sarah Winfield
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Sarah

While the main objective is to play trains happily, there is sometimes something of a love/hate relationship with the railway when things don't quite go right.

Allegedly, that's part of the fun - I'm not so sure :emo::emo::emo:
 
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