Sound in the Aristo slope back tender

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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik (IBT)
27 Oct 2009
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16.8v if you *really* must, but do not go higher than that.. Battery packs (especially new ones) can be quite a bit higher than the 'published' figure when new.
Gotcha - thanks

Wouldn't want to do it any harm. The first one is going well in the blue and yellow dismal which, interestingly, is a metal body (nickel silver Worsley Works etched body).

I took a tip from someone else who said that they put the Rx in the corner of a metal cab - presumably the windows may help a bit - and it's fine :clap::clap:
 
Hutch

Hutch

G Gauge, Raising Peaches, Apricots
1 Feb 2012
383
10
Southwest Oklahoma, USA
Coming in late in the game. The crude, rude methods used on AC/DC radios to create a "throatier" sound were a simple capacitor across the speaker and/or an inductor in series with the speaker. Always works for me to fine tune sound on "tinny" sounding tenders that are cheap plastic or not sound insulated.

---Hutch
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik (IBT)
27 Oct 2009
26,160
885
North West Norfolk
Coming in late in the game. The crude, rude methods used on AC/DC radios to create a "throatier" sound were a simple capacitor across the speaker and/or an inductor in series with the speaker. Always works for me to fine tune sound on "tinny" sounding tenders that are cheap plastic or not sound insulated.

---Hutch
The problem with Bachmann's Annie sound is that they tried to do too much, and in their desire to add steam hiss, ended up with a sound that dragged on too long, and ran into the next chuff.

George Schreyer's modifications shorten the chuff by replacing one of the capacitors - very effectively. The second mod to add a second capacitor in parallel with another existing one adds a bit of bass.

Finally, if you encapsulate the speaker, you can get quite a reasonable, and louder chuff out of the Annie :nod::nod:
 
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John S

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John S

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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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You do know George is/was a rocket scientist, right? Heckuva guy.
I had no idea - I have frequently returned to his documentation on G scale locos, in the 13 years that I have been playing with garden trains.

That probably explains the name of his railroad - the Geologically Improbable Railroad - I took him to be some sort of a scientist :clap::clap:

As for rockets, well, whatever floats yer boat :rofl::rofl:
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

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I met him some time ago, he lived in Los Angeles, he worked for a large aerospace firm, believe he worked on the space shuttle. We made friends and went to one of the local G scale train shows, the big one in Ontario I believe.

I was talking to some guy, and from behind me, George interjected a comment, and very pertinent, and, well, just a damn smart thought. The guy turns around and looks at George and comments to me, who does that guy think he is, a rocket scientist? George said "yup" and informed the guy that George really WAS a rocket scientist! Was pretty funny.

I had the honor of having him over my house and running trains, and my web site was inspired by him and his web site.

Greg

p.s. in the US, being a "rocket scientist" equates to being very smart
 
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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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View attachment 248873

View attachment 248874

Providing power is a choice down to the individual, use the existing 9V battery supply, or add a 7809 voltage regulator and tap the supply from the RC battery pack, remember a 7809 requires a minimum of 11 volts to function, or add a DC to DC converter and tap the RC battery pack to power the adapter board, less overhead required to operate it.
That's all looking very interesting - it just so happens that I've recently acquired a voltage regulator or two :wasntme:
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik (IBT)
27 Oct 2009
26,160
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North West Norfolk
View attachment 248873

View attachment 248874

Providing power is a choice down to the individual, use the existing 9V battery supply, or add a 7809 voltage regulator and tap the supply from the RC battery pack, remember a 7809 requires a minimum of 11 volts to function, or add a DC to DC converter and tap the RC battery pack to power the adapter board, less overhead required to operate it.
John, do you have the circuit diagram for that - I might try to build one :p
 
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