Wobbleboxer
Registered
I agree, but it depends on your weather. I suspect that gregh will be fine with his servos in the relative dry down under. I don't think it would last as long in the UK.
servos for turnouts
- Thread starter gregh
- Start date
korm kormsen
Registered
hmmm...
did you guys take in count, that there are two different kinds of LGB point-switches?
the older ones with three cableconnectors and the newer epl with two connectors?
did you guys take in count, that there are two different kinds of LGB point-switches?
the older ones with three cableconnectors and the newer epl with two connectors?
Wobbleboxer
Registered
korm kormsen said:
What is the difference?
As a guess, the 3 wire uses a common return and DC+ down one of the other 2 as required. The 2 wire just uses reversed DC.
korm kormsen
Registered
yes, the three wire (older)type used DC - two switches.Wobbleboxer said:
the two wire is part of the AC based epl system.
Cliff George
Registered
Another way of switching points is with the use of compressed air. It's ultra reliable and nothing much to leave outside to go wrong
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
bradypus said:
That's a very 'lateral thinking' solution. Good idea if you have a spare Tx+Rx.
I take it that you couldn't get the 555 timer circuit in the above link to work? If you could, then all you need is two of those circuits instead of the Tx + Rx solution.
While the switch positions in this idea do indicate what position the turnout "should ' be in they aren't true indicators. The blades may be jammed by a rock etc.
I use 2 methods for indicating the true state of the turnouts. The first is a mechanical 'signal'. It's just an arm about 6" long and a bit of fishing line connected to the turnout. I can see it from anywhere I'm standing. Here's one mounted on a fence. It goes horizontal when the turnout is straight.
The other method is to use LED indicators and micro switches. But in this case the LEDS are at the control panel which is sometimes further away from me than the turnout! And you need an extra 1 or 2 wires from the turnout to the control panel.
Cliff George
Registered
bradypus said:
I haven't purchased more bits for the compressed air system recently but when I installed the system I seem to recall it didn't work out any more expensive than using LGB parts.
nicebutdim
Registered
Gizzy uses the air system too I believe? Where do you get the components from? I'm quite interested in the operation.
Cliff George
Registered
Unfortunately the chap that used to sell the complete sysem I used in the States has shut up shop. I think all of the bits are available from other places if you know where. Pneumatic parts from Clippard, the air motor housings from Llagas Creek (or make your own). Brandbright in the UK has some of the parts and may be able to help. You can find out more information on the American forums. I can probably help more if needed.
Someone has started selling another system, I don't know anything about it. Web site is here: http://www.svrronline.com/PneumaticSwitch.html
Hope that helps.
Someone has started selling another system, I don't know anything about it. Web site is here: http://www.svrronline.com/PneumaticSwitch.html
Hope that helps.
Cliff George
Registered
We seem to be engaging in thread drift here, sorry about that.
Only one air pressure hose is needed. When the air pressure is turned on the actuator extends and opens the point. When the pressure is released an internal spring in the actuator resets the point.
The tubes are flexible UV resistant polyurethane.
Only one air pressure hose is needed. When the air pressure is turned on the actuator extends and opens the point. When the pressure is released an internal spring in the actuator resets the point.
The tubes are flexible UV resistant polyurethane.
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
bradypus said:
Sorry, I don't understand the bit about stalling. Can you explain more please?
Your proposal will send the same degree of servo rotation to every turnout won't it? And there will be power all the time so the servo will stall on every turnout
(my idea with the 555 timers has the same drawback.)
BTW the two big drawbacks with servos are:
1. you can no longer easily operate the turnouts by hand. So if you just happen to be near the turnout and want to change it, you have to walk back to the control panel.
2. trains won't 'push' through the turnout as they are locked in place by the servo.
Anyway, good luck. I still like servos!
Dtsteam
G Scale, Travel, Steam Boats, Mechanical Music
Anyone tried these ? At £2.70 a pop they might save a lot of trouble.
http://www.mutr.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1009480
http://www.mutr.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1009480
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
A very elegant operating spring.bradypus said:
I thought the 'C/O' in your original diagram was for changeover, not centre-off.
Have you tried installing this circuit yet? I found that if you have power on a servo and no control signal (as you will have) you get all sorts of funny operation. I originally did this and everything worked fine with my battery power. But I happened to run a track power train and the interference caused the turnout to move randomly. Very disconcerting for turnouts to change as you approach!. I tried all the filtering I could think off with capacitors everywhere and I couldn't fix it. Hence I went to the system where the power and signal are applied/removed together.
Hi
I have been using the small 9g servos to control the movement of GRS lower quadrant home semaphore signals. I have also used the servos to control scratch built turnouts where the throw has not always been the same.
In each case I have used the Heathcote Electronic Servo Motor Controllers which allow two position settings to be made as well as control of the speed of the servo. Generally I have been very pleased with their operation but initial set up did take time.
Currently I am waiting for two linear servos to arrive from HK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-RC-Timer-D...638210687?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item3f034b5e7f < Link To http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-RC-Timer-D...638210687?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item3f034b5e7f < Link To http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-...mp;hash=item3f034b5e7f). Which I hope will have enough power to control the turnouts.
The signals and turnouts will be on an indoor layout so weather proofing will not be a problem in my case.
Mike
I have been using the small 9g servos to control the movement of GRS lower quadrant home semaphore signals. I have also used the servos to control scratch built turnouts where the throw has not always been the same.
In each case I have used the Heathcote Electronic Servo Motor Controllers which allow two position settings to be made as well as control of the speed of the servo. Generally I have been very pleased with their operation but initial set up did take time.
Currently I am waiting for two linear servos to arrive from HK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-RC-Timer-D...638210687?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item3f034b5e7f < Link To http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-RC-Timer-D...638210687?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item3f034b5e7f < Link To http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-...mp;hash=item3f034b5e7f). Which I hope will have enough power to control the turnouts.
The signals and turnouts will be on an indoor layout so weather proofing will not be a problem in my case.
Mike
Hi
You might find the Polou RC Switch could be used to control the Heathcote controller.
For information on the switch try http://www.active-robots.com/products/radio-control/rc-interfaces.shtml < Link To http://www.active-robots.com/products/radio-control/rc-interfaces.shtml < Link To http://www.active-robots....ol/rc-interfaces.shtml.
Mike
You might find the Polou RC Switch could be used to control the Heathcote controller.
For information on the switch try http://www.active-robots.com/products/radio-control/rc-interfaces.shtml < Link To http://www.active-robots.com/products/radio-control/rc-interfaces.shtml < Link To http://www.active-robots....ol/rc-interfaces.shtml.
Mike