(RhB) Xk 9089 Engineering Car

Parkdesigner

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So while I wait to get the last pieces to finish the P10153, I figured I would start in on the second car in the consist.

I have long wanted one of these type cars, though the only ones I knew of were the rather expensive Magnus units, or the kit built versions from Stefan Wyss (also not cheap).

When LGB announced their new 34553 RhB baggage van, I thought “great!” however the first reviews of the car from the pre-production models came in and I quickly lost interest. (For those that don’t know, LGB modeled the wrong frame, the wrong axle distance, the wrong tool box placement, the wrong wall height, the wrong roof profile, the wrong sliding direction for the door, the wrong…. well… let’s just say the pre-production model was a... poor imitation of the prototype.)

Then the actual production version started to ship and the door slides had been fixed... and that was about it.
So I continued to ignore the car, but something just wouldn’t let me stop. As I proceeded with the P10153 build, I found that the Xbk 9089 actually ran alongside this car and so now I was determined to figure out how to build one.

Step one: order the car.

Step two: change this:



Into this:




I decided to begin with the frame. I’ve had a D4062 lying around for a while now, so after consulting the Schweers + Wall plan book, it graciously “donated” its frame to the build! I stripped the 34553 down and did the same to the donor. Next I drilled out the body’s mounting posts to its original frame, allowing it to flush mount to the new one. The other major bit of surgery was removing the lower baggage door guides. These were molded on to the frame of the D4062, but the car body of the newer model had the guides installed as a separate piece.



I also disassembled and began to modify the end platforms off the 34553 so as to make them mount to the new frame ends. One interesting note is that the frames are about 3 mm shorter on the new car, so I will have to shim the ends to match the railings. (Not a real problem, as the faux wood flooring will cover this.)

Next up is:
  • Getting the end platforms finished (harvesting parts from the original model and shimming into place on the new frame)
  • Repositioning and fitting one of the two original battery boxes
  • Cleaning up the flash on the frame itself
  • Modifying the side door steps to more closely resemble the prototype
  • Adding a few bits of detail here and there (including new body-end railings)
Thankfully paint and letter should not be too much of a challenge.

The big question is whether or not to tackle changing the roof profile. I’m still having a think and exploring options for a replacement roof. If I can find one that is more or less “drop in” then I will have at it - but if I have to scratch up my own roof, I may call it quits and leave the current one in place.


As you can see, this is just getting started, and will take time as I hope to turn this weekend’s attention back to the P10153 and getting it finished.

But overall, even just shifting the frames - I think that the below pictures really justify the effort as the axle spacing already looks much better under the car body.



Cheers,
Josh
 
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P

Paul M

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Hope to see you at the NG convention next year! (Sorry to derail thread but have not seen you in a coon's age).
You're not allowed to say the "c" word over here, they'll have your guts for garters!:tmi::tmi:
 
Parkdesigner

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Hi Greg!!

Indeed it has been a while!
(Hey mods, see how I didn't use inflammatory language there!? :lipssealed:)

I've been around... and as you can see, I've traded in the 1:20.3 for 1:22.5 meter gauge.
(Not to worry though, the D&RGW MOW stuff is on proud display in one of the spare bedrooms.)

Don't know if I'll make to the next NG convention - I seem to be traveling all the time these days. Here's hoping!


Now... back to our regularly scheduled program - the Xk 9089!

So not much work here today, as you'll see the Sersa P10153 thread will get the larger update.

That said there was a little progress made... well "progress" is an interesting term. I did get the end platform decks mounted. Also did some more clean up on the frame itself. Unfortunately... the more I stared at reference photos, the more I realized that LGB *did not* fix the incorrect sliding door direction from the pre-production model!

Seriously - apparently, after the tinter-webs collectively groaned at the wrong design of the car when LGB unveiled it, you know what they did in the catalog "photoshopped" photo? They turned the car around! Really. I kid you not. Apparently, rather than fix the problem and make the model accurate, they just swept it under the rug until it shipped. Sigh...

Oh well, not to worry - the Xacto knife can fix all.

As you can see in the second photo - I've already started to plane down the side wall until it's flush. Then I'll build back up the sliding door hardware and pray that my skill at fill and sand doesn't fail me!



Cheers,
Josh
 
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Parkdesigner

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So, in what is quickly becoming a trend, I’m again using the “wifi in the sky” to update another project!

Over the past few weekends, while working through the Sersa P10153 project, I’ve taken the opportunity where I’ve needed to let paint dry (or other time-intensive steps) to shift focus to continuing this build as well.

As I pointed out in the last post, those sneaky so-and-so’s at LGB never really fixed this car's body design, but rather simply turned it around for the catalog photos! So, I’ve continued to cut, shim, fill, and sand to try and get the door in the right spot!

This photo is the point that I was starting to think this might actually work.



Next I sprayed a first coat of primer to be able to see the flaws and then set about additional patch and fill.
(It's amazing what the first coat of primer will reveal... and conceal!!)





After some additional rounds of sanding I added additional details like the vertical strip to the left of the door (trying to match the factory stock version on the opposite side)



And the stock hand rail I had removed from the other side of the door opening when I started the major surgery.



A bit more mask and a final round of sanding and clean up and the car heads back out for a second coat of primer in last weekend’s sun. (The last two photos show the A and B sides of the car... pretty close to factory if I do say so myself!)







I’m hoping this weekend I can continue the build… possibly even getting some yellow onto the body itself.

The next major step is hacking, patching, and sanding the baggage doors themselves, and then of course turning back to building up the frame and car ends.

Thanks for looking!

Cheers,
Josh
 
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Parkdesigner

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So a nice weekend with plenty of sun the past two days. As such, it was time to prime!

First, I tackled the baggage doors themselves.

This required cutting off the handles, one “lip" of each side, and patching/sanding the holes left from the handle and latch. Then I had to rebuild the lip on each door’s side using strip styrene. Finally, I added a a few bits of styrene to represent the correct handle (minus the voids) on the doors’ face.

After a couple of rounds of patch and fill, they went outside for primer.



Back from primer, you can see not only the baggage doors, but the car-end doors, and the baggage upper guides and lower guides.



Next I realized that I needed to rebuild the car’s side steps. So for now I just cut-off the old ones from the lower door guides and set them aside.

With these gone, I worked on mounting the lower guides to the now yellow painted car body. This required using the OEM mounting post and screw on one end, and a drop of CA glue at the other.



I then placed the body on the frame and added the roof, just for a test fit.

As I was about to start re-mounting pieces to the car, including the window “glass” in both the body and the doors, and the end car doors, I just wanted a final check to make sure nothing had gone wonky before committing to things with glue!



Everything (still) lined up right. So, I began the reassembly.
  • Upper and lower door guides went in.
  • All glass was replaced and mounted.
  • Doors were put in place.
  • Roof was reinstalled.
The good news is at this point the car is really starting to look like something!




Minus end door handles (on oder from Ebay) and the lettering/logos (just need the courage to apply them) the body is pretty much complete.

Now the next big step is finishing the frame.

Currently I’ve been working to shim the end railings. I also need to modify and install the car steps on each corner. Once I get through these two steps it should be pretty easy to prime and paint the under frame and chassis.

The battery/tool box and brake gear is already modified and ready to install - I just need to get the chassis finished before I do.

All in all, some pretty good progress this weekend I think!

Sadly the next two weeks are work trips again, so I doubt there will be much progress until mid May - but the good news is this leaves time for the chassis primer and final detail bits to arrive in the post!

Thanks for looking.

Cheers,
Josh
 
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dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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Nice to see some big time mods to create a prototype, I should be copying your example with my Mallett! But I guess for me compromise is a wholesome meal that is taken without complaint. But your approach is the rightbone, I just hope for your sake that some of the other LGB offerings for your RHB theme are not so far off the mark.
 
Parkdesigner

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It would be amazing if LGB would start bringing more prototypical RhB items to market. (To be fair, in the freight side of things, their recent flatcars and skip cars show marked improvement - coaching stock is another story though.)

So I was supposed to be on my way to China this weekend, but the trip pushed back a few weeks. So, time for more modeling!

Tomorrow will be mainly focused on the underbody and frame of Xk9089, but this week my decals from Zenner came in, which meant I could start to close-out the body of the car. I'll post a more detailed progress report with photos tomorrow while I wait for some primer to dry, but as it's late here - thought I would at least post this:



Really starting to take shape!

More tomorrow.

Cheers,
Josh
 
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Riograndad

Riograndad

Model Railroading, boats and oil painting,
6 Jul 2013
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Cracking bash,great build:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 
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Parkdesigner

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Ok, as promised, here’s the progress report.

Knowing that I didn’t have to climb on a plane this Saturday, I went ahead and started this weekend’s projects a bit early. Last night, I pulled out the decals and some other bits and bobs for the car and started to make progress where I could.

First up, I thought I would take some time and try to apply the RhB logo decals. I had struggled for a while trying to decide how I would get this bit done. I started thinking about having Stan Cedarleaf here in the states make me a set of custom decals. I decided against this however as I’ve never been able to get wet slide transfers to really blend well to a car. The printing/text always looks great, but I just don’t have the magical touch when it comes to getting the decal film’s edges to blend in. (Even when using a special decal sealer etc.)

Next I thought about trying to get rub-down dry transfers made, but again, I’ve had bad experience in the past with the lettering breaking apart in the application process.

Then, randomly on an unrelated eBay search, I see a listing for RhB decals from Zenner. I figured for the price I couldn’t go wrong and bought a few. Let me tell you, this is the easiest lettering I’ve ever done. Basically a two step process of peeling away a backing sheet and affixing the lettering in place, then brandishing down the decal and peeling away the top backing sheet. Done!



Next up I pulled out the pin vise and added holes to mount the door stops in. (The door stops, BTW are from an LGB RhB boxcar.) Then I added one of the only non bits of LGB to the build, a pair of screen clasps I picked up in the bargain bin at Champex-Linden. These ones were made by Magnus.



While letting the glue set for the above I turned my attention to the chassis. I had already cut-away most of the extra bits from the frame so now I just wanted to add in a length of styrene to give the frame a “clean” look.
Glue, clamp, repeat.
And repeat.
And repeat.



This brings me up to my posting last night. Here is a snapshot of where both sides of the car stood last night.



This morning though, it was already hot by the time breakfast was finished so I wasted no time getting out into the yard!

First up was a wash of black primer on everything.



After letting the parts dry in the morning I brought them in and added some addition paint details where I could.

I used a multi-paint wash to try and pick out the “wood” details on the car-end decks. Knowing that the railings will be glued to the frame end, this is really the only time I’ll have unobstructed access to the deck so now or never! (It’s not amazing, I know - but I was really just trying to help make the wood boards pop against the black frame. I think dull coat will also help knock down the sheen a bit.)



And finally I set the the frame aside and focused on picking out details on the end railings as well.




And now, we’re all up to date. Hopefully this evening everything will be dry enough to have the railings glue and clamped to the chassis - and I will let those cure overnight.

Next up, trying to fashion a suitable set of baggage door steps and the most dreaded of all the tasks left, cutting and fitting the end platform steps to the frame. (This one is not gonna be easy!)

As always, thanks for looking!
 
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Parkdesigner

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Ok - so I was able to get the end railings mounted today and then reassembled everything.

Currently left to finish the build:
  • Car end door handles to mount (in the post now from eBay)
  • Car end handrails to mount (possible solutions in the post now from eBay)
  • End platform steps need to be modified and then mounted to the car
  • Baggage door steps need to be fabricated
  • Paint the baggage door stops yellow and glue into place
  • Install the car end buffers

The above notwithstanding, I got everything together just as the afternoon light was going so I ran out to try and get a few glamour shots of the car before it became too dark.

Enjoy!









 
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Parkdesigner

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So I received a question about what paint I’ve been using.
Always happy to share, so below is how I’ve been painting these builds. (Not saying this will always work for everyone, but seems to be ok for me.)

MOW Yellow (For Car Bodies)

Primer: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer (Grey)
Base Coat: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1214 Gloss Yellow
(Note: this is too yellow on it’s own - like something out of a Caterpillar or JCB showroom)
Top Coat: The Army Painter (Spray Paint): Color Primer Daemonic Yellow
(Note: this is not yellow enough on it’s own - has an almost green hue to it, even on primer)
Sealer: Testors Spray Lacquer (Spray Paint): 1260 Dullcote

MOW Grey (For Car Bodies and Frames)

Primer: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer (Grey)
Base Coat: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer (Grey)
Sealer: Testors Spray Lacquer (Spray Paint): 1260 Dullcote

Black Under Frame / Chassis

Primer: The Army Painter (Spray Paint): Color Primer Matt Black
Base Coat: The Army Painter (Spray Paint): Color Primer Matt Black
Sealer: Testors Spray Lacquer (Spray Paint): 1260 Dullcote

MOW Red details (Steps, Ladders, etc.)

Primer: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer (Grey)
Base Coat: Testors Spray Enamel (Spray Paint): 1250 Flat Red
Sealer: Testors Spray Lacquer (Spray Paint): 1260 Dullcote

Red Car Details (Hoses, brake staffs, etc.)

Testors Enamel: 1103 Gloss Red

Metal Car Details (Bolt heads, locks, handles, etc.)

Testors Enamel: 1181 Aluminum Matt

White Car Details (Hoses, connector caps, etc.)

Testors Enamel: 1168 Flat White

Weathered Wood (on plastic with molded wood grain)

Primer: (None where possible, if required Grey vs. Black is better)
Paint: Floquil Enamel Paint Markers (Also sold as Testors CreateFX Paint Markers)
First pass: Tie Brown
Second pass (while 1st still wet): Rail Brown
Third pass (after paint is tacky): Grime and/or Mud​
Sealer: Testors Spray Lacquer (Spray Paint): 1260 Dullcote


And in case you need it, for body filler I’ve been using is Squadron Products White Putty (the red tube marked “fast-dry”)

Hope that helps!
 
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PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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Thank you.. Very helpful..
 
Parkdesigner

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So a quick update and a request for help.

Last weekend was a bust - rain and drizzle both days - so really no chance to lay down the next layer of paint.
I did get the various bits of styrene cut to shim the steps to the frame. So now I just need the sun to come back so I can get on with it.

One challenge I am having is finding new handrails.

The OEM ones from the stock LGB wagon are the the incorrect, older style for this build.
(Top and bottom stanchions with a length of railing.)

What I need are more modern "bent” handrails found on most cars. Like this:



I thought this would be simple to find as (naively) I assumed the most of the LGB hand rails would be the same length. Well, after a half dozen eBay attempts, I’m stumped. Nothing I’ve found from LGB matches the 1 inch (exact) distance of the stock handrail. I’ve also tried some USA Trains grabs.

So far, the best thing I could find was USA Trains Reefer grab irons that end up being 15/16ths. They *almost* fit, but just not enough.

So, photo attached below showing size of the original railing I'm trying to replace.
If anyone knows of a more modern replacement for this I’d be eternally grateful for the recommendation!
(I really don’t fancy having to go back and patch/fill/paint the mounting holes on the car body - something I should have done to begin with.)

Thanks!
Josh


**Note, the replacements don't need the square "pegs" these have
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
26,535
Tamworth, Staffs.
How about the 'split-pin', 'pop-rivet shank', and brass wire idea??
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Neither idle nor a marvel
13 Jul 2015
2,294
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Along the lines of what PhilP PhilP has said, and I'm sure this has already occurred to you as you are clearly an accomplished modeller, if you can't get the real McCoy you could plug the holes with some black plastic rod from scrap parts, leaving it either flush or slightly proud of the surface, then use thick copper wire e.g. single strand mains voltage copper wire, cut and bent to size and painted matt black, and drill the required holes in the scrap hole fillers. You can then get the exact size and they look more realistic (thinner and sharper angles) than the LGB provided moulded plastic handles.
 
Parkdesigner

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Indeed - that is the back up plan. I figured if there was a "pop-in" replacement out there it would be easier though.

(And additionally, I find it fun to try and keep as many of the parts to stock LGB as possible. Thus far, minus the styrene, paint, and the glue, only one detail bit has come from a non-LGB part... and that was only as I didn't have the OEM equivalent on hand. It's great fun to be able to point at the finished car and explain that I didn't "build" it as much as I simply did LGB's job, correctly!

When the argument arises of wether or not LGB could be making models more accurately, it's nice to be able to point say "well, they had all the parts, tooling and moulds - they simply needed to put them together in the right order!") :rofl:

Nonetheless, thanks for the suggestions. I've still got to tackle the car-end steps, so if I don't have a ready-made solution by the time I finish those, then I'll likely go with a hybrid of your two plans (scrap bits of other plastic handrail bases, drilled out to accept bent brass rod).

Cheers,
Josh
 
Parkdesigner

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So, this morning was a bit grey, but with the forecast for clearing and sunny I got the "honey do” list taken care of early, and prepared to tackle the 9089's car-end steps.


To start, I mounted the LGB stock door handles to the car that arrived from eBay this week.

I then disassembled the OEM steps from the original car, and separated the “boards” from the frame bits.

The boards were then taped down, and I applied the same wash of Testor’s enamel paint pens as I did to the car ends earlier, but this time I added more “mud” to get a lighter wood tone. After a bit, they went outside for a spray of dullcote.





Next, the step frames, support points, and some “shims” I cut to assist in the step mounting all got taped down for a dose of black primer.





After lunch, everything was ready for reassembly. I stated with the steps.




The shims were then glued to the underside of the car frame in the corners.





And then it was time to mount the step frames in place.





I then decided I was on a roll, so I’d tackle the handrails!

I found that the ladder grab irons from an LGB Reefer was *so* close I gave them another look. Using one as a test, I removed the inside half of the handrail's ‘base” (the part that sits flush inside the car body) and miraculously this let the handrail slip right in to the car’s mounting holes without deflection in the railing!

So, off to paint they went!




And after at hit of dullcote, they were installed on the car.




And that gets us up to current!





The “to do” list is getting pretty short. Still need to fabricate the baggage door steps, and mount the end frame buffers, but other than that, she's almost finished.

Time to start thinking about the next build... maybe something from Furrer + Frey's RhB engineering fleet?

Cheers,
Josh
 
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