RhB passenger coach bogie

Making the "assumption" that LGB uses the same chassis for the same coach as the current 30693 so you can use the same boggies. which are at the following links and available for 18 Euros. or more ££ from a local dealer.

Truck Frame without Hooks Model train

Truck Frame with Hooks Model train

BUT !! if you can find an old Knacked coach WITHOUT a box (as thats where the value is to some), you might be able to pick one up for £80
 
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Hi DickyC, thanks for responding. My bogie looks different to 33670. The springs on mine are at the centre (see photo).
 

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Hi DickyC, thanks for responding. My bogie looks different to 33670. The springs on mine are at the centre (see photo).
A working fix would be to super glue together then fuse some wire into the framework inside. Will make a good strong fix, don't linger too long with the iron though just enough to get the wire into the plastic.
 
A working fix would be to super glue together then fuse some wire into the framework inside. Will make a good strong fix, don't linger too long with the iron though just enough to get the wire into the plastic.
I've got some of that plastic glue that you cure with a UV light which has done wonders with things I didn't think you could mend. Not tried it on LGB's offerings though. Somewhere in the garage I have a huge box of parts that include a selection of bogies. Might organize an expedition if the OP doesn't find a solution to his original request.
 
I've got some of that plastic glue that you cure with a UV light which has done wonders with things I didn't think you could mend. Not tried it on LGB's offerings though. Somewhere in the garage I have a huge box of parts that include a selection of bogies. Might organize an expedition if the OP doesn't find a solution to his original request.
Unfortunately, I tried melting a couple of pins to the back of the broken part and the whole thing caught fire and ended as a small pea-sized blob on the workbench having given off some pretty rancid fumes!!
 
Unfortunately, I tried melting a couple of pins to the back of the broken part and the whole thing caught fire and ended as a small pea-sized blob on the workbench having given off some pretty rancid fumes!!
Noted. I'll see if I can find anything in the next few days. Can't promise - if you saw the inside of my garage you'd understand better.
 
Unfortunately, I tried melting a couple of pins to the back of the broken part and the whole thing caught fire and ended as a small pea-sized blob on the workbench having given off some pretty rancid fumes!!
So what dis you use?
 
Sorry finger error, what did you use to make the thing catch fire?
I gently heated the metal pins with a small torch (not to visibly red hot) and laid them onto the plastic which immediately started bubbling and reduced almost to nothingness before my eyes. There was no chance of saving it.
 
Thanks Mike
Not good news, I'm afraid. Found the box of LGB bogies but none of the type you need. I know there are two more boxes somewhere , but they will be PIKO and Bachmann. Sorry I can't help.
 
I'm going to try making a silicone mould of the matching side of the bogie and form a resin copy . . .what could possibly go wrong with that:)
 
No no no, a soldering iron as I suggested some posts back would have done the job, never ever use FIRE on plastic or even any model except for perhaps soldering metal, even the never direct but behind joints to fuse solder.
I gently heated the metal pins with a small torch (not to visibly red hot) and laid them onto the plastic which immediately started bubbling and reduced almost to nothingness before my eyes. There was no chance of saving it.
 
Unless you are 100% sure both sides are identical...
Take your mould from the opposite side of the other bogie.

Look twice, cast once.

PhilP
 
Ok, let me try this again…

I’ve just pulled a spare bogie assemble (tongue, left frame, right frame, and clutch) from a sealed factory bag.

The tongue is stamped 30660.160
The left side frame, when looking at the assembly from above, wheels down, with the clutch up (at top) is 30660.163
The right side frame, when looking at the assembly from above, wheels down, with the clutch up (at top) is 30660.162

A way to tell the two apart is that .163 is designed to pitch/flex about the tongue’s mounting point. It “rocks” when traversing uneven track.
.162 is designed to slide snug onto the mounting point of the tongue.

Based on your photo, the piece you’re looking for should be .163…. but you’ve asked for .162… so I would start with examining the part number stamps on the back of both sides, and confirming which number it is you need?

Note that depending on when the part was made (1990s, 2000s, 2010s) and where - Germany, Hungary, China... the P/N stamp can very in position - but the mould itself remained the same.

In a pinch, you can use a .163 in place of a .162 albeit with some slop.
You CAN force a .162 onto the mount for a .163 - but you will have to shave off the lower boss that is on the underside of the tongue’s mounting point. (There is only one on the assembly - it’s to help guide the “flex” of the side frame when rocking)

Going back to my earlier post above - Modell-land.de is the best place I’ve been able to source parts. Some they list online - some you need to email for.
You can also check with Champex-Linden.

Technically - if it makes sense for you - you can also order from train-li-usa in the states, as they sell the Modell-Land inventory - but you have a longer wait, as they collect part orders, then gang shipments once a month from Germany to US.

(Here is the full assembly from Train-li’s website: LGB-33667-M012 Truck for Glacier Express )

You can also troll eBay (UK, US, and DE) for parts... currently some available in Germany: MTS 82330005 Drehgestell schwarz mit langer Deichsel RhB 3X66X Ersatzteil LGB
 
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