Reparing LGB Track.

[Waldgrun]

I have just obtained some secondhand 2 and 4 foot length LGB striaght track.
However, when it was lifted some damage occurred, in so much as, some of the rails popped out of the retaining clips on the sleepers, so in order to repair it I know that I must slide the rails clear of the place where the track has come out the clips and then re-insert the rail!
Pretty easy with the two foot lengths, but it is the four foot ones, which have set me thinking! LGB striaght track is based on 30cm units, and the sleepers mouldings are that size, so for a 4 foot (120cm) length of track 4 sleeper moulding are used, to maintain the correct sleeper spacing, LGB track has two fishplates used as spacers every 30cm.
As I need to deal with centre sleeper panels on some of the 4 foot lenghts, can I please ask, if anyone has any advice, tips, etc for removing and replacing these intermediate spacer fishplates?

 

[Madman]

Could the intermediate fishplates be tapped off the rail ? On the four foot lengths it would be time consuming and maybe tedius. If I am not mistaken there is a center punch mark in the bottom of the fishplate that keeps it from sliding along the rail. Once you tap the fishplate past this point, it should move somewhat easier the remainder of the length of the rail.

 

[minimans]

Use a small drill and drill out the small dimple on the centre fishplate and apply luricant to the rail and slide off................

 

[stevedenver]

put on the kettle!

truly
i know of what you speak

i suggest boiling water to soften the plastic and then try to put the retainig tabs back into place manually
if the plastic has a lot of weather exposure it may simply be too brittle to soften
give it a try
this has worked for me on the very old, original, REA track i have, which constantly seems to have those retaining tabs coming off-or breaking

short of pulling, bending and removing those decorative fishplates, i have no suggestion other than the above
i have some 4 ft lengths with a lot of wear along the indside rail head edge
and this issue has kept me from slipping out the rails and turning them



the ohter thing that comes to mind, and not a good idea i think, might be to heat the plates with a soldering iron, and see if that affects adhesion--
the plate should heat before the rail, and it could be enough to loosen them ??
i think, as a practical matter, you may simply need to remove those plates entirely (bend em off!) and add a couple of sleepers to take up the space left
or simply use some aristo or piko plates as replacements-and tack in place with ACC

drilling might do it but it might not