RCS Control system

[MRail]

A question (mainly) for Tony Walsham...

Just volunteered to take a look at a disabled friend's Brandbright Cricket.
The loco has not been used for several years, and the batteries are, of course, dead.
The on-board battery has 12cells and reads 5.4V, so I'm trying it on a charger.
The handset is RCS #TX-24. I've fitted a new 9V battery, but can't tell if it's working.
I'm not sure how to operate the controller, so I'm wondering if instructions are downloadable from somewhere.
The RCS website makes no mention of TX-24, so I guess it's now obsolete.
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Tony Walsham]

Hi Rob.
Yes, I no longer make the older Elsema based RCS system. I think Brandbright had original copies and printed them out as needed. So please try them.
If not, there are instructions still available but they are stored in my computer at the moment. Give me a day or so and I will try and dig them up in pdf format.
In the meantime there is an LED on the Handpiece that lights when six of the function buttons are pressed.

 

[alecescolme]

Rob,
Is this any use:
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/alecescolme/misc/RCS B_and_E_instructions.pdf

The TX-24 has a red led at the top that flashes if a button is pressed, the batteries seem to last for quite a while.
My first concern would be the loco batteries, I believe the minimum voltage is 12v.

Alec

 

[Tony Walsham]

Thanks Alec.
I must bookmark that page for other enquiries.
As to minimum voltage. That depends on the ESC. For most of them with relays the minimum is 7.2 volts. If solid state the minimum is 12 volts.

 

[Tony Walsham]

Thanks Alec.
I must bookmark that page for other enquiries.
As to minimum voltage. That depends on the ESC. For most of them with relays the minimum is 7.2 volts. If solid state the minimum is 12 volts.

 

[MRail]

Thank you Alec, I will be studying that data.
Tony, yes I thought the LED should light up, but it doesn't.
Will try another battery just in case. The one I fitted has been used in other kit.
The loco battery is a 12 cell NiMH pack, I guess 14.4V.
After trying to charge for a few hours the reading dropped to zero.
Looks like replacement of battery and control is in order.

The owner did say that last time it ran, the control range was much reduced.
It's been is store for about 6 years since then.
I think 2.4GHz will be the way forward - eventually.

Thank you both.

Addendum:-
Just tried a really new TX battery, and still no LED.

 

[MRail]

Ross,
The new battery is the 9V (PP3) type in the handset TX.

Traction battery is the original >6yrs out of use.
Will be having a go at it over the next couple of days, possibly with a Li Ion 12.6V type.
Thanks for the input.

 

[MRail]

Sent out shopping this am, so took the opportunity to by a new 9V battery.
Duracell alkaline (other makes are available!).
Handset #TX-24 has resurrected! (at least, the red LED comes on).

 

[Tony Walsham]

The LED comes on solid, and stays on, only when any of the six run function buttons are pressed. The two bottom RH buttons are just shift keys and do not emit any commands.
When the battery gets low the LED will blink when the buttons are pressed.

 

[MRail]

After some playing about, the loco battery has taken some charge.
The loco has worked, and moved a few feet, before flattening the battery.
A further charge has some more movement.

The TX24 handset does have a problem, in that the LHS speed up (forward) button works intermittently.
I imagine it's well worn.

 

[Tony Walsham]

Hi Rob.
If any of the TX-24 buttons have become intermittent they can be fixed under no charge warranty. I would need it back here to make the repair.
The batteries sound like they are dead. That is quite normal with NiMh. They rapidly self discharge when not being used. Each self discharge counts as one less recharge cycle capability. Plus, to start with they have only half the number of recharge cycles of a NiCd cell .
If you must use AA size cells, replace them only with Hybrid AA cells such as the ENELOOP brand.

 

[MRail]

Thank you Tony,
I have now acquired the loco from the owner.
After a couple of charges, it has run along my tramway shuttle, and gone flat again.
Looking at all the factors, including distance, I've pretty much decided to re-do the whole power set-up.
All my other locos are on 2.4GHz, and I have a spare Planet Rx in hand, with a stock of NiMH AA's @ 2900MAH
Logically, I propose to convert to this system, and use a UK sourced Viper controller. I have several of these and like them.
I don't mean to "dis" your product, just to conform to my existing systems.
Your input has been helpful.