Shortly (I use the term loosely as it depends on the glacial pace of the legal system and a chain of buyers) the current railway will be closed due to moving house. The new place has more space for the new railway, so I have a dilema. If I am making a line that is effectively a large dog bone shape I have to put 180 degree curves in the track. The question is this: is it better to have a continuous curve of R3s or two 90 degree curves of R2s and a stright section about 1m long in between? This comes to about the same size. I run manual live steam, and Accucraft Mortimer and a Roundhouse Silver Lady. The general mantra is use the largest radius you can, but that will give me a continuous curve. Any ideas gratefully received.
radius versus straights
- Thread starter cheshire
- Start date
PaulRhB
This Way Up
The benefit of larger radius, especially with manual live steam, is that there's less resistance so the speed drop will be less allowing easier loco control. Real railways go for continuous larger radius as it means less wear on track and stock so its more realistic too.
If you want it to look even more realistic don't use long straights either, even larger radius curves R5 with shortish straights inbetween are more like a real railway as it meanders through the countryside. Just another thought to consider
If you want it to look even more realistic don't use long straights either, even larger radius curves R5 with shortish straights inbetween are more like a real railway as it meanders through the countryside. Just another thought to consider
stevedenver
Registered
agreed
R2 with straight in between isn't the same as R3;it will bind more.
I also think that unless you have a variation of the number of straights in between the curved sections, it will likely look contrived
R2 with straight in between isn't the same as R3;it will bind more.
I also think that unless you have a variation of the number of straights in between the curved sections, it will likely look contrived
Dtsteam
G Scale, Travel, Steam Boats, Mechanical Music
I would endorse the R3's but for a different reason - just about anything G Scale will go round them. Whatever you but or anyone brings, you know you can run it. I only have a small train set but it was a real joy to see a really big engine like KeithT's K27 run on my track. Good excuse for a piccy...
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
'Tis not exactly what I would call 'small'.Dtsteam said:I would endorse the R3's but for a different reason - just about anything G Scale will go round them. Whatever you but or anyone brings, you know you can run it. I only have a small train set but it was a real joy to see a really big engine like KeithT's K27 run on my track. Good excuse for a piccy...
Interesting and varied would be my terms.Which reminds me we were going to do it again this summer but I fear that we may be running out of it! &:
Martino
Photography, The GWR, Aviation, Travel, Cars.
I guess it depends on what sort of railway you are trying to model.
A standard gauge mainline is going to require sweeping curves, while a narrow gauge industrial will be more forgiving to sharp curves etc.
The general rule as everyone else has said is the larger the radius curve, the better - for lots of reasons.
You can always start a curve with a larger radius and then tighten it, then ease out again.
It also depends on how much space you have, and what stock you are planning to use.
Maybe beg, steal or borrow a rail bender and customize your curves to your space and plan. You don't have to stick with the curves as they come out of the box!
A standard gauge mainline is going to require sweeping curves, while a narrow gauge industrial will be more forgiving to sharp curves etc.
The general rule as everyone else has said is the larger the radius curve, the better - for lots of reasons.
You can always start a curve with a larger radius and then tighten it, then ease out again.
It also depends on how much space you have, and what stock you are planning to use.
Maybe beg, steal or borrow a rail bender and customize your curves to your space and plan. You don't have to stick with the curves as they come out of the box!
funandtrains
Registered
One thing to consider is that longer wheelbase model don't like reverse curves and tend to derail or un-couple on them so if you have these planned it is best to have a 60cm (2') straight between them.
Another trick that has been recommended in the past by several people is to start long bends off with a shallow radius curve.
Another trick that has been recommended in the past by several people is to start long bends off with a shallow radius curve.
korm kormsen
Registered
space obligates me to use even R1 curves on my indoor layout. but wherever possible i try to gradually tighten the curves from straight to small diameter.
nothing uglier to me, than a train that gets yanked sideways by too sharp and sudden a curve.
nothing uglier to me, than a train that gets yanked sideways by too sharp and sudden a curve.