Replacing R1 points with R3

PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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Tamworth, Staffs.
Perhaps plucking up courage to take the saw to an expensive bit of track?? :(:worried::think:
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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North West Norfolk
Rob

Rob

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Ok, so I’ve taken the old points out and made a start on laying out the new ones.
I still need a left hander, and the curve to join the heel of said left hander to the heel of the king point (no.1 in the photograph). I should be able to get hold of these tomorrow.

Now, after laying everything out I reckon I need to cut the rails half way between the first and second sleepers.

For those that have done this Mod already, does that sound about right?

I’ll be able to fine tune it all once I get the remaining track tomorrow, but just wanted to see if I was on the right lines, if you’ll pardon the pun!
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Ok, so I’ve taken the old points out and made a start on laying out the new ones.
I still need a left hander, and the curve to join the heel of said left hander to the heel of the king point (no.1 in the photograph). I should be able to get hold of these tomorrow.

Now, after laying everything out I reckon I need to cut the rails half way between the first and second sleepers.

For those that have done this Mod already, does that sound about right?

I’ll be able to fine tune it all once I get the remaining track tomorrow, but just wanted to see if I was on the right lines, if you’ll pardon the pun!
Looking at mine which have an 8cm spacing between the tracks at the closest rails, the cut has been between the 2nd and third so if you are wrong you still have some latitude to adjust. However my suggestion would be to cut in the middle of the first sleeper after removing it, that way you can gauge what you have achieved without fatally trashing the point. Ok so you may have to cut 2 or 3 times to get where you need to be, but a much safer route.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
remember, you can always cut more, not less ;)

cut a little long, fit up and cut some more... use a dremel cutoff wheel if you have it.. fast and easy, so you won't mind doing it a bit at a time

Greg
Actually with Long Massoth Clamps you could repair a few MM Overcut at a cost.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
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PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
22,947
334
Tamworth, Staffs.
whatever you are thinking on the rightmost piece of loose track, if the position shown is your plan, please rethink!

Greg
I am not sure, but think there may already be track under that curve?? - I think 'it' (and the two points/turnouts, top of picture) are 'just resting' there.. :think:
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
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A 'nice' :shake: reverse-curve, just there, would be a great way to throw stock onto the floor! :eek::cry::cry:
Have to disagree no such thing as a "nice" reverse-curve ;)
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
24,708
388
North West Norfolk
Have to disagree no such thing as a "nice" reverse-curve ;)
Yebbut nobutt, if using set track - then yes, you're right.

If using flexi, and particularly in the smaller gauges, then they come out OK - largely because the track tends to flex in the manner of transition curves. In our gauge, you've got to form your bends, and so it's not quite so easy, but doable :rock::rock::rock:
 
Rob

Rob

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whatever you are thinking on the rightmost piece of loose track, if the position shown is your plan, please rethink!

Greg
That’s the redundant R1 curve that I’ve just removed. It’s not going back in.

That area is just the engine shed and coal siding, I’m not changing any of that. Besides, even if I wanted to it wouldn’t fit!
 
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