Replacing R1 points with R3
- Thread starter Rob
- Start date
Probably gotta buy 'em firstPerhaps plucking up courage to take the saw to an expensive bit of track??
Yep, he did indicate that in the first post, although he also referenced buying a curve, which I don't see he needs.
Ok, so I’ve taken the old points out and made a start on laying out the new ones.
I still need a left hander, and the curve to join the heel of said left hander to the heel of the king point (no.1 in the photograph). I should be able to get hold of these tomorrow.
Now, after laying everything out I reckon I need to cut the rails half way between the first and second sleepers.
For those that have done this Mod already, does that sound about right?
I’ll be able to fine tune it all once I get the remaining track tomorrow, but just wanted to see if I was on the right lines, if you’ll pardon the pun!
I still need a left hander, and the curve to join the heel of said left hander to the heel of the king point (no.1 in the photograph). I should be able to get hold of these tomorrow.
Now, after laying everything out I reckon I need to cut the rails half way between the first and second sleepers.
For those that have done this Mod already, does that sound about right?
I’ll be able to fine tune it all once I get the remaining track tomorrow, but just wanted to see if I was on the right lines, if you’ll pardon the pun!
Looking at mine which have an 8cm spacing between the tracks at the closest rails, the cut has been between the 2nd and third so if you are wrong you still have some latitude to adjust. However my suggestion would be to cut in the middle of the first sleeper after removing it, that way you can gauge what you have achieved without fatally trashing the point. Ok so you may have to cut 2 or 3 times to get where you need to be, but a much safer route.
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remember, you can always cut more, not less 
cut a little long, fit up and cut some more... use a dremel cutoff wheel if you have it.. fast and easy, so you won't mind doing it a bit at a time
Greg
cut a little long, fit up and cut some more... use a dremel cutoff wheel if you have it.. fast and easy, so you won't mind doing it a bit at a time
Greg
Actually with Long Massoth Clamps you could repair a few MM Overcut at a cost.remember, you can always cut more, not less
cut a little long, fit up and cut some more... use a dremel cutoff wheel if you have it.. fast and easy, so you won't mind doing it a bit at a time
Greg
I am not sure, but think there may already be track under that curve?? - I think 'it' (and the two points/turnouts, top of picture) are 'just resting' there..
I think you are right, just being overly cautious...
A 'nice'
reverse-curve, just there, would be a great way to throw stock onto the floor! 
Have to disagree no such thing as a "nice" reverse-curveA 'nice'
Yebbut nobutt, if using set track - then yes, you're right.Have to disagree no such thing as a "nice" reverse-curve
If using flexi, and particularly in the smaller gauges, then they come out OK - largely because the track tends to flex in the manner of transition curves. In our gauge, you've got to form your bends, and so it's not quite so easy, but doable
That’s the redundant R1 curve that I’ve just removed. It’s not going back in.
That area is just the engine shed and coal siding, I’m not changing any of that. Besides, even if I wanted to it wouldn’t fit!
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