Radius One- many of us use it?

[Lordraglan274]

The first loco to negotiate the twisting R1 track was 'Monarch' and performed well with decent clearances. I will probably start a new topic in 2010 with a collection of photos of the next few stages. Also Monarch is due to lose it's current strange shade of green for GWR Green very soon.

 

[vannerley]

We have a reversing loop at both ends of the line. One is R1 with longish sides but it slows the steam engine - a Carradoc class - down quite noticeably. The electric trams and battery locos take no notice. The other end is round a sizable wild life pond. Unfortunately, one corner had to be R1 because of the need to fit a reversing loop for the electric trams into a cramped space but most of it is R3.

 

[C&S]

I suspect I'm going to have some spare R1 curves which I could straighten and use in sidings where a bit of wiggle and non-standard length won't matter. If I do them in pairs there'll be a longer and shorter straight from every 2 R1s.

Having taken the rail out of the sleepers, can it be clamped between the edges of a Workmate to take out the curve, or does one need more upmarket kit to do the job?

 

[Martino]

I use a small metalworking vice to 'unbend' the track. Works a treat, no wavy lines.

As you say, do them in pairs to have a short one and a long one. Cut the webs between the sleepers so that they can be straightened. I use sections of flex track sleepers which I bought at a sale a while ago, then use the curved section sleeper base to make sleeper build buffer stops and things like that.

 

[korm kormsen]

Having taken the rail out of the sleepers, can it be clamped between the edges of a Workmate to take out the curve, or does one need more upmarket kit to do the job?

as i had bought about 400 R1 curves very cheap, i am straightening a lot of rails.
i just prestraighten them roughly bending them over an edge. then i use light taps with a small hammer on a makeshift anvil.
i allways do a pair, so, even if they might not be 100% straight, at least they are equal.

 

[Philbahn]

I like most people have issues to get round and while R1s aren't good they get you around the problems. I would love the space to use large radus cruves, but have got used to excessive overhang and nobody else has commented on the track. So its all right for me.

 

[stevelewis]

In most Gardens R 1 curves solve a lot of problems, I use R 3 and 5 wherever possible, but the Garden Is not large and quite narrow, so R 1 are used to over cone the problems where nescessary, they actually dont look too bad especially when balasted.

Also very useful for getting reverse loops intoo tight locations.

 

[matthew]

erm. . I have to side with the47king on this one and not GRS. All Roundhouse engines will traverse r1 curves. Telling you that a Lady Anne is the largest you can go is utter rot. I know this from personal experience as i own a few engines from the Roundhouse range

just to prove this, one of Keith's on r1's



[attachment deleted by admin]

 

[stevelewis]

I have run long trains and never had any derailing problems with R1 curves, indeed when I first stated in G scale R1 curves were the only radius actually available, and in those days I ran long trains without problem also!

As long as the track is well laid derailments shouldnt be a problem.

Also if there is the facility for long STRAIGHT runs of track on a Garden line, it looks so much more realistic if the run is actually laid as a gentle curve in my opinion.

 

[coyote97]

R1 is no bugaboo at all. but i think the environment must fit.

i started the second time with all R3 and Bachmann-US-stuff of 1:22,5.
Today, with the spectrum and AMS cars, its on the edge! But it works. Even though i have replaced als single straight switches to min. R6,5`, and all curved switches to R min 6,5`as the tracks.

But im moving over 2 feet long coaches!
Driving the LGB Stainz and the little cars is no problem with R1.

But for better performance, i would always (i tried whereever possible) to begin and end a curve with a bigger R to "unsharpen" the flow.
Never place 2 R´s directly in an "S", use a straight part between and when possible the "flowbow" ti begin the curves.
The straight track should be as long as the longest tight wheelbase of the roling stock (what allows short straights with truck-fitted cars)

These two things came out in my "modeler career (was HO, too)" as the golden rules of layout planing.

I once started to either build staions with 2 goodlooking tracks than pressing 4 tracks on every free place. Therefore i decided to afford either 1 fine switch then 4 cheaper ones.

Quite well looking, like my "on the line"-junction where lines are spiltting with 2 R 10 feet switches and an additional straigth part between.

Pics in the gallery or on the site (link below)

facit:
R1 is to use with the right rolling stock. The 2-10-2 Harz loco doesnt come out in its whole glance, even though it runs on R1.

Frank

 

[mbiff]

:wave:many moons ago the line started out as a simples r1 layout

 

[minimans]

I spent years trying to run fine scale O guage in the garden, you need a min of 6ft rad for them and 10/12 is better, I changed to G after loosing 2 loco motors when they derailed because of a leaf had got on the track, I ended up putting all the railway in tunnels which cost a lot and looked stupid, I wouldn't go back to O gauge, I run LGB NG and have to run r1s in places but have used flexi were I can Les

So a scale model of the underground then mate!! ..................