Radius One- many of us use it?

CoggesRailway

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Hello,

Ok I have R1 curves in my new layout- 2 reasons- 1) They came with the job lot of second hand track I built my railway from and 2) They have allowed me to make the railway blend into the garden by negotiating pre exisitng structures/beds.

I am fast realising that this greatly reduces the scope of locos you can aspire to and also that under live steam you have to drive constantly, and can't really let the trains go by.

I get the impression that most of you have avoided r1? Is the lady anne the biggest live steamer that will live with r1?

Just interested in the prevailing views :)
 

Spule 4

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My R1 track is limted to sidings. R2 an R3 on the mainline for the reasons you point out. If I had to do it all over again, the sidings would be R2, using the new TrainLine R2 points.

Not sure if that helps or not.
 

vsmith

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24 Oct 2009
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Depends on your circumstances, I have nothing but R1's due to the extreme tight space I had to work with. No live steam, all electric, run engines up to Bachmann Climax size, but if you have the room it is better to go with the widest radius that works , but dont put in the widest radius if it leaves you with a layout plan you find too dull, sometimes working with constrictions can yeild for more enjoyable results
 

PB+J

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I have some R1 curves and switches in a yard that leads to my train barn. I'm gradually moving away from "bigger is better" and tending towards physically downsizing the loco herd. It takes REALLY big curves to make the larger G scale stuff look halfway right
 

trammayo

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Hi, I have a mixture of Flexi Track, R1 curves and all R1 points. The only thing I would change is where I have a pair of points creating a reverse curve (in the proposed stationn area). I might have got away with R2 curves on my trestle loop but physical constraints really meant the use of R1s. I only run Bachmann Big Haulers and some Spectrums (plus my scratchbuilds so it is only on reverse curves that there is a problem. Personally I thing they look good and in proportion on a small site.
My other layout is in a trailer and is all R1. Again, only slight problem is on reverse curves.
Mick
 

mikeyh

French railways/model railways/guitar/music/histor
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Modelling a French tramway line necessitates only using R 1's, otherwise the trrains couldnt wind through the village streets. got no interest in big locos
 

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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<p>R3s for through stations and the station throat of termini but R1s for sidings and runround loops in the termini (for reasons of space)</p><p><img width="320" height="295" border="0" alt="Peckforton station" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lFmnuaQ3ubw/SV1DA4vhk4I/AAAAAAAAAq8/APhDDyFuejk/s320/IMG_1663.JPG" /> </p><p> </p><p><img width="260" height="320" border="0" alt="Beeston Market Station" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lFmnuaQ3ubw/SKCulTidyBI/AAAAAAAAAfA/xOFPRKD7rCw/s320/IMG_1406.JPG" /></p><p>Have a couple of R1 curves on the mainline but will probably re-lay those come the summer.
</p>
 

stockers

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I have a bit of space and I read on GSM and in books to go as large as space will allow. So my main line is R3 minimum, larger for many of the curves (Aristo 10 and 12.5 ft.) A couple of R 1's have found thier way into yards.

12.5 ft on viaduct
 

ladyb

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31 Oct 2009
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A circle of R1 curves works wonderfully well under the Christmas Tree

:D
 

themole

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Radius 1 curves, and some home brewed (ie bent them myself :) ) radius 0 on my tramway. :D Alyn
 

Dave Hub

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As I'm still in the landscaping and laying stage, I'm trying for at least one run for larger locos. It's causeing a little grief but I'll get there. Decided to have double track set up with outer only using R3. Inner will be R1 +R2 Most of my points are R1 will hopefully replace when I get some money, hoping for lottery win any time soon.

Its useful to know before you start what you want from the layout. I had a class 66 when I moved to this house theefore I know I needed bigger curves if I ever wanted to see it running.
 

Bram

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IMHO 0 guage does not have the presense in the garden that G scale has. I run with R1 & R2 and all is fine, but each to their own and it depends on the size of stock you want to run
 

Gizzy

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I used the R1s from the Stainz set I started out with and added R2s for double track.

Partially due to space constraints.

Looks fine to me for a secondary line, using medium sized Narrow Gauge rolling stock....
 

Rhinochugger

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I'm one of the lucky ones with a little bit more space. The best advice is to go large, if you have the space available.

Minimum curve is 8 ft diameter, but then, I don't have a yard as such, and I don't do shunting

Trains just run :clap:

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whatlep

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CoggesRailway - 8/11/2009 12:20 AM
I am fast realising that this greatly reduces the scope of locos you can aspire to and also that under live steam you have to drive constantly, and can't really let the trains go by.

Hi there. I have to use R1s on my current layout due to space constraints and run all manner of locos. The real constraint is on large bogie vehicles and US stuff that requires generous curves. Neither is a problem for me.

Regarding live steam, unless you have a dead flat line, you really do have to drive most locos. On my previous line, all curves were R3 and no gradient was more than 1 in 50, but as steam pressure built up and subsided (even slightly), the throttle had to be adjusted to compensate.

Trust me, you can have oodles of fun with R1. One of the best layouts I've ever seen (yb281's) uses R1 as standard, runs like a dream and has scenery I can only dream of creating.
 

3Valve

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Needs must for me too. I use a fair amount of R1s due to space constraints.
 

mike

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:D its a comprmise, either you have the room, go large, or you dont, go small..or have a very short line..
me, its r1s, r2s r3s were i can... and contary to belifes, it is poosable to get the 3 "R"s...
Relistic,Relable,Runnig
:) rule 8.
 

Rhinochugger

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The Devonian - 8/11/2009 5:07 PM

  Rule 8 maybe fine in many instances but unrealistic curves for the larger locos. I feel, is not one of them.</font></font></font>
</p>

Rule 8 is fine, because it means that you can make the compromises that suit you. We all do things differently, and we all see things different things as being important in a model railway.

What is also useful, is to be able to do bit of research and see how other people do things before shelling out large amounts of wonga on track :bighug:
 
<p>I'm lucky enough to have the space for minimum 15 ft diameter on my main line and have all R5 points on it. However, the original line had R1s and there are still 3 R1 points on the main line - but the main line runs through the straight section of them. They never give any trouble. I don't run on the little R1 loop very often but I can't bring myself to take it up. It's where it all started.</p><p>On this picture, the R1s can be seen diverging to the left. The long bogie vehicles would think I was having a laugh if I tried to run them round the R1 loop but no trouble at all going straight through on the main line.</p><p>Evensford station yard at the top is all R3s.</p><p>I agree, many lines show that it's not the size it's what you do with it that counts. R1 lines can look brilliant.</p><p>[img=http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/johnsaintjim/091107%20EMR/IMG_8765Large.jpg]</p>