R1 Y Point

duncan1_9_8_4

Garden Railway Operator/Real Life Signalman
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I think I know the answer so that will confirm that it can't be done. But does anyone know of a R1 Y Point manufacturer. I'd quite like a simple circle in the front for novelty time of year, Christmas and Halloween etc.

See below....

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I'm sure I have sen one from LGB or Piko. However my thought would be to contact Garden Railway Specialists. They can supply bespoke code 332 (LGB rail) wooden sleepers points and crossings. GRS 45mm | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158 l have an 6ft radius Y they produced as well as crossing, double slip and 6ft radius points. Survive well outside with a little creocoating in the spring

L - R GRS wood sleeper code 332 6ft Y, Double slip, Crossing, 6ft point
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I'm sure I have sen one from LGB or Piko. However my thought would be to contact Garden Railway Specialists. They can supply bespoke code 332 (LGB rail) wooden sleepers points and crossings. GRS 45mm | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158 l have an 6ft radius Y they produced as well as crossing, double slip and 6ft radius points. Survive well outside with a little creocoating in the spring

L - R GRS wood sleeper code 332 6ft Y, Double slip, Crossing, 6ft point
View attachment 362931View attachment 362932View attachment 362933View attachment 362934
I wish I had the room!
 
I seem to think that years back before WW2 Hornby O gauge had a Y-point. I've often thought LGB should have produced one.

Is there a member here who could produce them?
 
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I had one made by Tenmille, but it wasn't electrical isolated....
 
I wish I had the room!
They are just to give an idea of their construction and what GRS can make. Double slip is a great space saver for switching tracks where space is limited. There is a 2ft radius Y on that link, shich is near R1 600mm radius. It's code 250 but I'm sure they could supply in code 332 or provide adaptors to fit to code 332, a common practice with some on here.
 
Piko did list a Y point in the range years ago when they first introduced their G45 track system, but sadly it never appeared... :mad: Really annoying, because it would have been very useful.

Bertram Heyn's stuff is very good, but I'm not sure what the situation is about ordering from him these days, whether he's still happy to ship to the UK? Anyone had anything from him in the last couple of years?

I think GRS will pretty much build anything you want, but it won't be cheap... ;)

Jon.
 
Piko did list a Y point in the range years ago when they first introduced their G45 track system, but sadly it never appeared... :mad: Really annoying, because it would have been very useful.

Jon.
They didn't do the proposed R1 double slip either.

A suggestion for Paul though, is maybe use a R1 3 way point, which LGB do make....
 
They didn't do the proposed R1 double slip either.

A suggestion for Paul though, is maybe use a R1 3 way point, which LGB do make....
LGB ref 12360, but reversely it looks like the right hand bit has a short straight that would mess up the existing track. What is needed is an exact R1 each way not really easily done I feel.
 
I seem to think that years back before WW2 Hornby O gauge had a Y-point. I've often thought LGB should have produced one.

Is there a member here who could produce them?
Blimey Gordon - You've given me food for thought. Has the R0 track fared well?
 
They didn't do the proposed R1 double slip either.

A suggestion for Paul though, is maybe use a R1 3 way point, which LGB do make....
Thing is, it's not a true Y. It throws the R1 out a bit as the left hand turn starts of a technical short straight.....
 
Thing is, it's not a true Y. It throws the R1 out a bit as the left hand turn starts of a technical short straight.....

Indeed!

Both curves are 30 degree 60cm radius, but while the right hand side curve can be used in place of a single piece of 600mm set track, the left hand side can't as the curvature does not start until 4 sleepers along the point base.

IMG_7912.jpeg
 
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Hm it could work with a bit of wiggle to a R1 point left of the building and a short extension of straight halfway round the curve to the left. But much fettling and faffing.
I wonder if a couple of R0 curves from Heyn could work, or manipulating a couple of R1 a bit tighter than they should be....
 
In fact looking at the points from Heyn, they appear to do a R1 Y. But the frogs looks different, as in all brass. Are Heyn points designed for non track power, as they would surely cause a short circuit?
 
The Heyn points have live frogs. It is straightforward to wire them. There are various videos on YouTube showing how. Here is a link to the switch: Weichen/Signalschalter 2x um Gehäuse ca. 55 x 34 mm - Sven Binnewald Modellbau Heyn and here is a translation of how it works:

You can easily use this switch, for example, as a selector for the brass frog points of the turnouts. It’s simple to mount on the opposite side of the turnout actuator. Also suitable for signal or track circuits. The switch can handle up to 125 V / 5 A. There are three contacts: C stands for common. NO means normally open, which is not connected in the default position. NC means normally closed, which is connected in the default position. This allows, for example, a single-pole cutoff of a siding by feeding the power from the main track to the C contact. The siding then gets power from the other contacts. Whether you use NO or NC depends on how you install the switch and the position of the turnout.
 
I think you can also leave the Heyn frogs unpowered, in which case they would work just like the plastic dead frog on an LGB point? It doesn't matter that the frog is brass, as long as it's electrically isolated from all the powered rails then it won't cause a short. Having the conductive metal frog just gives you the OPTION to power it (via a switch) as a live frog if you want to.

Anyway, that's how I understand it - if that isn't right, then I will stand corrected by those wot know more! :)

Supplementary question for Them Wot Know: if you have a wired live frog point, does that then make it impossible to "push through" a wrongly-set point from the toe end without shorting?

Jon.
 
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