Piko 2-10-2 Class 95 Ref. 37230 conversion to Battery Power.

dunnyrail

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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Many Thanks Jon this is all really helpful.

I'm still debating where to apply the razor saw to my Bubikopf - cab or side tanks? - to house the batteries, see separate thread Piko BR 64 Bubikopf.

When it come to re-assembly, there are three screws with big red washers to attach the chassis to the motor blocks on both Piko locos. But I fear I didn't record how tight they all were and now can't remember! Perhaps all three tight then back off half a turn or all tight and back off the main pivot a whole turn? What would you say?
Will look at your 64 then answer the first part in an edit to this post. If I am able.

Edit having read your piece on the 64 again I am in difficulty trying to advise. I would like to see some pictures of the inside of the 64 before commenting. However you do talk about removing the weight and holding stanchions. On relooking at the 95 I could have removed the top of the weight to the depth of the Stanchions mounting a long thin battery pack on top of the space created. I wonder if a similar process coild be appled to the 64? Without any pictures I am just guessing here.

As for the screws, on the 95 they are to allow the chassisi to pivot so some slack is very necessary. Also again on the 95 there are springs that keep things all in place with the centre one having 2 washwes one above the pivit point one below with the spring below that. If your 64 pivots in a y way I would do so that these is a fair bit of play, doing full tight then loosening may not be the best practice as you may damage the plastic inside where the screw screws. I would have thought that a piece of 20 thou plasticard would give a good final resting point if you offer a piece, screw up then withdrawing the plasticard after.
 
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WKDOR

WKDOR

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All good stuff Jon thank you. Yes it was very inconsiderate to hi-jack your thread and then ask you for advice without providing the necessary pix:

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To the uninitiated it looks pretty similar.
 
dunnyrail

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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All good stuff Jon thank you. Yes it was very inconsiderate to hi-jack your thread and then ask you for advice without providing the necessary pix:

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To the uninitiated it looks pretty similar.
So it looks very much to me like the front and rear pivot from the Central Screw. All should thus NOT be too tight but enough to ensure that things do not fall out. My 20 thou theory looks sound. I would imagine that also cutting the weight from the top lengthwise to leave say 5-10 mm above the screws should leave a goodly space for Batteries to sitbon top. Yes there may be some weight loss but you could put some in the Tanks possibly a product Called Liquid Lead?

Liquid Lead Shot (500gm)

This could be built into custom Plasticard Boxes to fit the soace that you may have left,mthatbis if you are not planning to use the Tanks for more Batteries,

PS do not worry about hijacking my thread, we all do it!
 
JimmyB

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JimmyB

Learning; but slowly!
23 Feb 2018
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Liquid lead, that is what i have just used to increas the weight of my Otto, held in place with casting resin.
 
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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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So it looks very much to me like the front and rear pivot from the Central Screw. All should thus NOT be too tight but enough to ensure that things do not fall out. My 20 thou theory looks sound. I would imagine that also cutting the weight from the top lengthwise to leave say 5-10 mm above the screws should leave a goodly space for Batteries to sitbon top. Yes there may be some weight loss but you could put some in the Tanks possibly a product Called Liquid Lead?

Liquid Lead Shot (500gm)

This could be built into custom Plasticard Boxes to fit the soace that you may have left,mthatbis if you are not planning to use the Tanks for more Batteries,

PS do not worry about hijacking my thread, we all do it!
Wouldn't worry about losing the weight if you're going to fill the space with batteries :nerd::nerd::nerd:
 
WKDOR

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Thank you all. I'll do some more measurements on the possibility of stowing batteries above half the weight and making up the weight difference in the side tanks, sounds a good approach..

Jon, comparing your 2-10-2 pix with my 2-6-2 ones I detect one (probably significant) difference in the positioning of the springs.

Both have three connection pivot points. From the front, I have springs located on Front and Rear but not Centre/Main. You have yours on Front and Centre/Main but not Rear.

Despite all precautions I do remember one spring jumping out at me - so is it possible I have parked it in the wrong place?

All the best

Mike
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
23,747
42
North West Norfolk
Despite all precautions I do remember one spring jumping out at me
:giggle::giggle:

I recently tried a conversion of an old IP chassis to sprung axle boxes. Now the nice, kind, sensible people at Slaters put a healthy handful of springs in the pack, and you could fire them off at will in all directions and still have enough to do the job :emo::emo::emo:
 
dunnyrail

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Thank you all. I'll do some more measurements on the possibility of stowing batteries above half the weight and making up the weight difference in the side tanks, sounds a good approach..

Jon, comparing your 2-10-2 pix with my 2-6-2 ones I detect one (probably significant) difference in the positioning of the springs.

Both have three connection pivot points. From the front, I have springs located on Front and Rear but not Centre/Main. You have yours on Front and Centre/Main but not Rear.

Despite all precautions I do remember one spring jumping out at me - so is it possible I have parked it in the wrong place?

All the best

Mike
the 95 just 2 Springs front and centre. The rear mounting has a rounded top to allow front and rear oscillations rather than just side to side. No spring with that screw. I think you will have placed them corrct on the 65 as there is a spigot on the centre one.

The 95 breakdown in the manual is worse than helpless in that regard, erroneously showing a black blob where springs may be and for the rear mounting where a spring cannot be fitted!
 
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WKDOR

WKDOR

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Many Thanks again Jon.

Aah! the manual I had completely forgotten. Yes the 64 breakdown page also shows two black blobs for the Forward and Rear connection springs. But of distinctly different sizes with the bigger one at the Rear as per my photo. So yes mine probably are round the right way. Hey Ho.
 
dunnyrail

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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Returning to the 95 I have had a little bit of bad luck with getting this rolling. First I trashed the Reciever and Speed Controller by wiring them up wrong. My silly mistake, I was in too much if a hurry to get the thing working before I went out! Lesson learnt and to be forgotten again. Then when I got then new Reciever and Speed Controller things did not quite work as expected, high speed one way hardly anything the other. An Email to Steve at Fosworks suggested that the Cobra Setup could be a little out. Sure enough reading the instructions part that I have never taken note of revealed all and sorted that issue. Then it kept loosing signal, a rebind sorted that out so all is well now. Needless to say this was my 13th Battery Conversion!

Pics and rest of the notes to be added on an update to this post. Strange goings on with iPads!

What a taradiddle, my iPad 3 is getting near unusable on the net now. Not able tomupdate it any more as Apple apear to have ceased updates to older Models. Grrrr. Anyhow managed to get in so here is the rest of the update.

In spite of the 95 being a big loco stuffing all the gear is was still a trial. In part my own fault as I wanted to use the Opening Smokebox Door for the On/Off and Charging Sockets plus a Fosworks Loom that makes wiring up so easy. My foul up was with the wires between the Reciever and the Cobra Speed Controller. My sily mistake! I suppose that I could have elongated a couple of the Loom Wires to use that space behind the Weight in front of the cab, useful tip if any one else has a go at the 95 for Battery Power. In the second Pic you can see how I have mounted the Battery Pac saddle bag like either side of the Loco with the connecting wire coming forwards. It was all just about the right length! Also you can see an old Garden Solar Light used as a Speaker Enclosure. Good call Phil to save them for such purposes.
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So having resolved my idiotic wiring foul ups it was time for some testing. She ran it all round my line and only had a little problem on a R1 in the Shed in an area that it was originally never intended to use Locomotives. Things change but with a litle wiggle of the rail 95 managed to get through the curve the next trip.

It really is a mild manered Locomotive and ahunting is a pleasure as had been the case with all of my Battery Coversions, that lack of link via dirty rail is a thing if the past now and running is a real pleasure sans Track Power.
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That final picture shows it running over a Peco R1 Curve in the Shed with no worries. Just the detail to return back in place now and the buffers need attention as they are a little to high. But she is allready to take her place on this Wednesday and Fridays Timetable Running Days.

She certainly is a big lump of Plastic!
 

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dunnyrail

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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31
70
St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
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Having seen Nodrod’s big Swiss Train on the today bit of the Forum I decided to see what I could do with my Piko Battery 2-10-2. I was pleased to see that it could pull 12 Coaches round the 4ft Rad Curved Incline (Ramp to the Germans) with mostly 1:40 Grade but a punishing final 2 yards at 1:30.