PDF Ruby Build

[Paul M]

For Christmas, I was lucky to receive a PDF Ruby kit.
Having started it, I thought I'd post my progress.
This is the state of play after 3 coats of filler primer spray, Halfords, although there must be other makes. It was as hard as I imagined, the print lines were apparent, but not bad, so it was just a case of wet and dry and some elbow grease. Of course the proof will be when another coat of standard primer goes on!

 

[trammayo]

For Christmas, I was lucky to receive a PDF Ruby kit.
Having started it, I thought I'd post my progress.
This is the state of play after 3 coats of filler primer spray, Halfords, although there must be other makes. It was as hard as I imagined, the print lines were apparent, but not bad, so it was just a case of wet and dry and some elbow grease. Of course the proof will be when another coat of standard primer goes on!View attachment 278472

So, your'e going to town on this?

 

[Paul M]

So, your'e going to town on this?

No, it's not that big just round the garden

 

[Paul M]

Riveting. The squared paper is so I can vaguely line them up, easier than trying to mark the plastic. And yes I did primer them first then have rub it off!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Not seen that approach before - very clever

 

[Paul M]

Not seen that approach before - very clever

It saves trying to mark out the rivet positions. The squares are 1mm s you can space them as you wish. Obviously it doesn't do anything to help my dodgy gluing work, but that would be the case however I did it

 

[Paul M]

More riveting, what's more, I've just noticed I need to straighten 1 or 3, oh deep joy!

 

[PhilP]

View attachment 278892More riveting, what's more, I've just noticed I need to straighten 1 or 3, oh deep joy!

Why?
It adds 'character'.

 

[Paul M]

Why?
It adds 'character'.

True

 

[Paul M]

Today, I was able to resume work on the Ruby.
I have stuck the cab together, along with my fingers and everything else in a 2 foot radius. First, sticking it together incorrectly, just for practice you understand. Now it wi need re-undercoating as the solvent didn't stick to the paint, obviously I should have realised that, but.....

Another silly question, that I really, really ought to know the answer to. I have the standard 2 way AA battery holder, would I be able to recharge batteries in that without it getting warm? As I said I should know, but I would like an expert opinion. I'd be using a Smart Charger

 

[3 minutes of fame]

Today, I was able to resume work on the Ruby.
I have stuck the cab together, along with my fingers and everything else in a 2 foot radius. First, sticking it together incorrectly, just for practice you understand. Now it wi need re-undercoating as the solvent didn't stick to the paint, obviously I should have realised that, but.....View attachment 281088View attachment 281088View attachment 281089

Another silly question, that I really, really ought to know the answer to. I have the standard 2 way AA battery holder, would I be able to recharge batteries in that without it getting warm? As I said I should know, but I would like an expert opinion. I'd be using a Smart Charger

Battery charging will be fine. Just make sure the batteries are cool before you start.

 

[Paul M]

Battery charging will be fine. Just make sure the batteries are cool before you start.

That's good news thanks for the reply, I just need to find some 1.5V rechargeable batteries, they're usually 1.7V

 

[jimmielx]

Looking good. Rivets are well worth the time spent. Really interested to see this progress as I’ve been eyeing up a PDF kit..

 

[3 minutes of fame]

It depends on the battery chemistry.

NiCad / NiMH is generally 1.2V
Alkaline 1.5V
Lithium 3.7V

What have you got running that will worry about 0.5v?

 

[Paul M]

Looking good. Rivets are well worth the time spent. Really interested to see this progress as I’ve been eyeing up a PDF kit..

Nice little kits, obviously not the most elaborate of kits but for watching trains go round they're great, and additional detailing or modifications can easily be done

It depends on the battery chemistry.

NiCad / NiMH is generally 1.2V
Alkaline 1.5V
Lithium 3.7V

What have you got running that will worry about 0.5v?

Not too sure, but everyone has been talking about Lithium batteries I'd forgotten about NiCad/NiMH jobs, I'm sure they'll be fine.

 

[Paul M]

Finally managed to get some construction work done on my Ruby. Just to the rolling chassis. The boiler and cab still need to be painted, which I'm not looking forward to at all. Its obviously a large area to do, and extremely visible. While the kit is going together easily and everything seems to fit, I'm having issues with missing parts, although PDF have quickly dealt with the issue without any problems, I'm still finding items that are missing, mainly screws etc, which is annoying. It would have been nice to have a complete parts list to check before you start.

 

[Paul M]

Getting there, slowly

 

[Paul M]

Sorry, I should have said. It is just put together temporarily, I'm waiting for a good day to spray the tank and cab

 

[Paul M]

Just a little bit more, it's now blue, I just hope it's nicely coated.

 

[Paul M]

Getting there, you will of course not the 1 or 2 glaring errors. The cab detail isn't by any means prototypical, rather just a suggestion.