Old LGB 2080s sound not working

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Hi all I’ve bought a LGB 2080s it was sold as a spares and repair because the gears was grinding g but I’ve fixed that.. The sound was working before the seller sent it, but I think I’ve accidently snapped 3 wires in a circuit board, I’ve tried re soldering them back on but I’ve had no luck wit it, the only thing that I can get working is a small motor which has something to do with the whistle as if makes a noise when you press the whistle button under the body.. Anybody else own one of these old 2080s who could help me out? I’m not sure if I’ve wired it wrong or something like that!

 

[PhilP]

I do not see what the secondary motor would do?? - I am assuming the drive has not been totally changed, and that motor powers the wheels..

Is this one of the models that has a battery to keep sounds going?

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

I do not see what the secondary motor would do?? - I am assuming the drive has not been totally changed, and that motor powers the wheels..

Is this one of the models that has a battery to keep sounds going?

Yep there’s a 9v battery to keep the sound going, the small motor starts when I press the whistle button under the chassis and when the loco sets off, it’s got nothing to do with the motor to move the loco. Here’s a quick video of it, the sound is the motor when I press the whistle button

 

[dutchelm]

I bought one of these with faulty sound many years ago. The motor part was a mechanical bell & when the bell contact operated the motor turned & hit a bit of tin to make a clank, clank noise. I replaced several transistors but never did get the whistle working. It looked as if it had been struck by lightning.
If the whistle contact operates the motor you have wires crossed somewhere.

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

I bought one of these with faulty sound many years ago. The motor part was a mechanical bell & when the bell contact operated the motor turned & hit a bit of tin to make a clank, clank noise. I replaced several transistors but never did get the whistle working. It looked as if it had been struck by lightning.
If the whistle contact operates the motor you have wires crossed somewhere.

I’m not sure if it’s the whistle contact it was the button on the left hand side of the loco I’ll see if I can get the bell working though as there’s a cover for if, I can’t figure out what’s up with the chuff noise though I don’t know if I’ve broken the circuit board when I re soldered the wires back on.. or if I’ve shorted it some how . I’ve been told there’s something that can be in the motor block, a cam or something like that?

This picture was before I cleaned it up..

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

So I’ve figured out the chuffs per every wheel revolution is done by the small plate on the middle driving wheel, all the wires are fine.. can’t understand what’s up with it..

 

[Neil Robinson]

So I’ve figured out the chuffs per every wheel revolution is done by the small plate on the middle driving wheel, all the wires are fine.. can’t understand what’s up with it..
View attachment 234656

Even if you get it sorted I fear you'll be disappointed with the sound. In my opinion the sound in these early locos was dire. Not cheap either, a 2080D (smoke no sound) was listed in the U.K. for £80 in about 1977 with the sound version (2080S) a whopping £240!!

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Even if you get it sorted I fear you'll be disappointed with the sound. In my opinion the sound in these early locos was dire. Not cheap either, a 2080D (smoke no sound) was listed in the U.K. for £80 in about 1977 with the sound version (2080S) a whopping £240!!

I quite like the old analogue sounds. This is exactly how it sounds.. I’ve been told

 

[stockers]

No Will, that is a fairly modern digital sound card. and its not a 2080 either - a somewhat newer model with plastic valve gear.

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Well I’ve got some life out of it! I’ve got a poor connection somewhere as it cuts out.. but it’s a start!

 

[artfull dodger]

Keep at it, your getting closer. I would get every contact as clean as possible and then let her run for awhile. Things might wake up after having power applied for awhile. Problem with electronics is they have a finite lifespan and do not/will not work forever. Capacitors dry out and go bad among other issues with early analog electronic circuits. Seen many 2019s sound moguls that have whistle/bell but the chuff is super faint, and this is the typical failure of the early mogul sound boards. I had a 2180s with the early "treddle trigger" sound, it worked after being ran for awhile. It was real sporadic and would cut out and such till I ran the model for awhile. It was mint in the box, and had sat in the box in a closet since being produced so many years ago. Good Luck!! Mike the Aspie

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Keep at it, your getting closer. I would get every contact as clean as possible and then let her run for awhile. Things might wake up after having power applied for awhile. Problem with electronics is they have a finite lifespan and do not/will not work forever. Capacitors dry out and go bad among other issues with early analog electronic circuits. Seen many 2019s sound moguls that have whistle/bell but the chuff is super faint, and this is the typical failure of the early mogul sound boards. I had a 2180s with the early "treddle trigger" sound, it worked after being ran for awhile. It was real sporadic and would cut out and such till I ran the model for awhile. It was mint in the box, and had sat in the box in a closet since being produced so many years ago. Good Luck!! Mike the Aspie

I’ve just found 2 poorly soldered wires gonna re solder them and see what I get out of her! The whistle did want to work, but kept cutting out when the whistle sounded!

 

[artfull dodger]

Good, every one of those issues you eliminate, the closer your getting to the sound working as good as it can. Kind of fun to get this early stuff going again. Its part of the history of LGB and where we came from in sound. Its amazing how quickly we went from this type of sound to full digital sound that is perfect recording of the real engine but in miniature. My 2080d is a very early version of this model, still has the 18vt yellow head lamp bulbs. I get the non sound versions as I need room for my battery pack in the boiler. She runs as good as any newer version of the Harz 2-6-2t

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Well I’ve re soldered them wires, the lights have stopped flickering but the sound hasn’t improved,whistling constantly.. not sure if I’ve broken the circuit board when I soldered the wires back on..

 

[Bill Barnwell]

Not sure whether you have found your problem or not but here is a wiring diagram for your engine, Bill

 

[Paul M]

Well I’ve re soldered them wires, the lights have stopped flickering but the sound hasn’t improved,whistling constantly.. not sure if I’ve broken the circuit board when I soldered the wires back on.. View attachment 234664

I don't want to be too finicky, and please dont taske offence, but there's some really dodgy looking soldered connections there. The one at the top by the + sign and the 2 lower green ones. The red cable to the other board looks like it's about to fray apart. I hope I'm not being over critical, I don't know anything about the LGB sound set up, but good soldering is essential.

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

I don't want to be too finicky, and please dont taske offence, but there's some really dodgy looking soldered connections there. The one at the top by the + sign and the 2 lower green ones. The red cable to the other board looks like it's about to fray apart. I hope I'm not being over critical, I don't know anything about the LGB sound set up, but good soldering is essential.

None of that soldering is mine actually! It’s as it came! Somebody else has re wired it slightly and made a right mess of it.. I’ve taken out the sound unit because it’s behyond repair I think.. going to focus on getting the gears sorted out and the loco running smoothly.

 

[Paul M]

None of that soldering is mine actually! It’s as it came! Somebody else has re wired it slightly and made a right mess of it.. I’ve taken out the sound unit because it’s behyond repair I think.. going to focus on getting the gears sorted out and the loco running smoothly.

That sounds a reasonable idea. The electronic bits were probably fried when someone went on the rampage with a soldering iron!

 

[AddictiveBiscuit]

Any idea what could be causing the connecting rods to sag?

 

[Bill Barnwell]

the part you have your pointer at should be at 2 o'clock not 7