Newqida Rc Locomotive 2-6-2t, Recommended?

Great to here you got yours up and running again. Had mine out a few times since it's arrived, and due to kit being so quick and easy to get out, it almost feels I've used it more than my main fleet so far (it's always hard find a free day with good weather when you work 6 days a week):cool: . Mine has gotten much better with running, though has to run at a bit of speed to get it around the 1st radius's, which is every curve on my line. It does derail, ever few laps, partly due to the wobbly axle on the front pony truck, but also what seems to be uneven track, which has occurred over winter (found out the hard way with some LGB coaches coming off). Though I'm glad this engine has found the fault and not the LGB or Piko fleet :)
I have filmed a running session with it, which I plan to upload in the next few weeks, and when I get around to it, I hope to do a video review on the loco at some point as well. Hopefully it will be of help to people unsure of what to think, like I was.
 
A quick running session featuring the Newqida R/C Harz 2-6-2T Steam Locomotive. The model is very detailed copy of it's LGB counterpart, though fitted with a basic Battery and R/C System, rather than track power and is aimed at the toy train market.
There are a number of issues with the quality and performance of the model, the most notable, is that it struggles around 1st radius curves, due to a lack of sideways play in the drive wheels (hence the breakneck speeds in this running session).
One thing this model does have though is bags of character. Since arriving, I have used it countless times, including; when guests visit, the track is too wet to run the electrics or when I am just too short of time to set up a full running session.
With a bit of modification, I'm sure this can be made into a really decent model. A full review will hopefully be on the cards for the future, highlighting in more detail the pros and cons of the model.
Hope you enjoy!
 
Nice video, see what you mean about the speed required to get it round the R1s..... what puzzles me is why the LED headlamps flicker so much? Having a constant power supply from the battery, and unaffected by any track pickup problems, I can't see why they do this?

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Nice video, see what you mean about the speed required to get it round the R1s..... what puzzles me is why the LED headlamps flicker so much? Having a constant power supply from the battery, and unaffected by any track pickup problems, I can't see why they do this?

Jon.
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Do they 'flicker' to us?? - If you are actually there, that is??

Could this not be an artefact of 'so-many-frames-per-second' and the encoding of the video down to YouTube resolution?? - I have seen similar on other videos, sometimes it is commented about.
 
Mm, good point Phil, you may well be right.....
Like when they used to show old CRT monitors on TV shows, and they always looked like the picture was rolling!

Jon.
 
The only flickering I noticed was at slow speed. Presumably the motor is being driven by PWM and the LEDs are fed from the motor output.

Now my line's lifted I can't just pop out and see how the lights on mine behave. Perhaps one of these days I might set up the brown plastic track that came with mine and give the set a run. I don't recall it struggling round the plastic R1 track (my line was all R3 or larger so never had any problems on the curves anyway).
 
Zerogee said:
Nice video, see what you mean about the speed required to get it round the R1s..... what puzzles me is why the LED headlamps flicker so much? Having a constant power supply from the battery, and unaffected by any track pickup problems, I can't see why they do this?

Jon.
Click to expand...
Yes, it is a real dog on the curves, but hopefully with a bit of modification I should be able to get her around the track at a more realistic speed. :D As for the flickering it's a trick of the camera. I got a new camcorder and it seems to pick LED up like this, which is of concern, as my old one did not do this. Get really annoying when filming real trains with LED lights and of course platform monitors :worried:
 
ntpntpntp said:
The only flickering I noticed was at slow speed. Presumably the motor is being driven by PWM and the LEDs are fed from the motor output.

Now my line's lifted I can't just pop out and see how the lights on mine behave. Perhaps one of these days I might set up the brown plastic track that came with mine and give the set a run. I don't recall it struggling round the plastic R1 track (my line was all R3 or larger so never had any problems on the curves anyway).
Click to expand...
Was all the trick of the camera with the lights. Sort of annoying really. As it does it will other LED's and screens too. It a new one and my old one very did anything like it.
Interesting point on the radius, mine really struggles, hence the break-neck speed. Though I do hope to try and modify it at some point. Seems the centre drive will is the main bug-bearer.
 
Re going round the curves..
As a last resort, you could remove the flanges on the centre set of wheels..??
 
A review full review of the budget Newqida RC G Scale Harz 2-6-2T Steam Locomotive.
Made Toy and Radio Controlled Manufacturer Newqida, this locomotive, plus other items rolling stock under the Train Branding, are a cost effective away of getting started in the world of G Scale Garden Railways.
Based on a German Harz 2-6-2T Steam Locomotive, which is used on the Harz Narrow Gauge Railway in central Germany, the model is bristling with detail, many due to the fact it's a clone of a premium LGB model.
The loco comes with everything you need to get started, including a Radio Controlled Hand-Set, 7.2 Rechargeable Battery, and Charger.
Performance can vary with these models (as seen in this review), but with a bit of modification, the loco does have potential.
Hope you enjoy!
 
PhilP said:
Re going round the curves..
As a last resort, you could remove the flanges on the centre set of wheels..??
Click to expand...

I made that suggestion in a post in another thread and there was some thought that the middle drivers might fall between the rails and make the problem worse.
 
GAP said:
I made that suggestion in a post in another thread and there was some thought that the middle drivers might fall between the rails and make the problem worse.
Click to expand...

In which case, I would 'pack' the axle-slots, so they can rise, but not descend so far..
 
GAP said:
I made that suggestion in a post in another thread and there was some thought that the middle drivers might fall between the rails and make the problem worse.
Click to expand...
PhilP said:
In which case, I would 'pack' the axle-slots, so they can rise, but not descend so far..
Click to expand...
Have been thinking the very same thing. So will be interesting to see when I get around to it
 
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