Newqida Rc Locomotive 2-6-2t, Recommended?
- Thread starter SDJR7F88
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- newida rc loco newida rc loco
Callum, it is designed-in to the LGB engines.. From an 'engineering' point of view, the amount of 'slop' in the motion, and side-to-side play on an LGB loco is necessary, but seems horrendous.
Other manufacturers have addressed this by having a centre axle were the wheels do not have a flange, but are flat across the tread of the wheels.
SDJR7F88
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Yeah, which is great for my 1st radius curves, though I heard on the Newqida loco, it has trouble in getting around them, due to there not being enough
SDJR7F88
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Well bit the bullet and got one.
I was not expecting anything special, but was presently surprised on most fronts.
The loco is a good runner, powerful and amazing the RC range is very good (compared to what I have seen), makes around the B&BLR, and can be controlled from a bench across the way.
Three main issues to note, the pony trucks sometimes jump, but this can easily be sorted with the changing of the springs. The front pony wheel are also a bit wonky.
But the main issue is on the curves, the B&BLR is all 1st radius (600mm) and struggles on low speed.
My question is, from what I've heard it seems to be the centre wheel that's the problem. Would taking the flanges off it make a difference or is there any other fix?
For what it is, it's not bad. Sure I'll make a few changes to it at some point. For now it a good way to have a bit of fun in the garden, when I get back from work or short of time to set up the electrics.
I was not expecting anything special, but was presently surprised on most fronts.
The loco is a good runner, powerful and amazing the RC range is very good (compared to what I have seen), makes around the B&BLR, and can be controlled from a bench across the way.
Three main issues to note, the pony trucks sometimes jump, but this can easily be sorted with the changing of the springs. The front pony wheel are also a bit wonky.
But the main issue is on the curves, the B&BLR is all 1st radius (600mm) and struggles on low speed.
My question is, from what I've heard it seems to be the centre wheel that's the problem. Would taking the flanges off it make a difference or is there any other fix?
For what it is, it's not bad. Sure I'll make a few changes to it at some point. For now it a good way to have a bit of fun in the garden, when I get back from work or short of time to set up the electrics.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
I would think that removing the flanges off the middle drivers would be a good solution. Most of the locos I run are made with blind centre wheels. Also, modifying the pony truck (either by adding weight or altering the spring) is useful too.
I think the loco looks quite good - far more detail than you get on some I think - so enjoy it!
I think the loco looks quite good - far more detail than you get on some I think - so enjoy it!
The other thing of interest to manic Train Spoters is the difference of Numbers between the Side and on the Smokebox Door. Will drive them crazy! But I do agree for the price is a pretty good animal. If you can get rid of the R1's. Will give better running all round.
JonD
JonD
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Not to mention rivet counting (oh sorry, I just have)!
My train spotting days are long gone (standing in Leeds City or Central stations). Long live Ian Allan R.I.P.
Once I got the magnifying lenses out I could see what you meant Jon! A little black paint and some white Letraset or Vinyl letters (numerals) will sort that - how could the inscrutables not open their eyes?
owlpool
Welsh NG in the mountains. live steam
or continue to annoy the train spotters
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
If removing the center flanges the axle may need holding up. I dont know how much flexibility is in these but if the middle axle can drop a bit the wheels will drop below the surface of the rail on sharp bends and derail as the bend straightens. Model locos with intentional flangeless middle drivers usually have the wheel held slightly above the rail surface.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
SDJR7F88
Registered
Didn't spot that until you mentioned it!
As for the radius ones, the layout is in a very tight location, so the R1 are sadly a must to make it all fit in. Hopefully one day though...
SDJR7F88
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Ah, thanks for the info. Will have a look into it
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
The replacement wheels have arrived, not bad 12 days from Germany, I will now fit them and I will look at the side play of the wheels.
An initial brief look has revealed that there is a molded piece on the back of the wheels that is not present on the LGB wheels I compared them to which makes the distance of free axle shorter.
This causes the flanges to sit higher than the LGB ones when a side by side height comparison was carried out that actually allows them to overlap.
My thinking is that this molded piece can be filed down or the wheels could be tapped out along the axle and that will increase the side play.
Could I please ask someone who has an unmodified loco to weight it and let me know how much it weighs so that I can add extra weight to get it back to pre mod weight.
I will be installing a 9.6V battery (8AA NiMH), Peter Zenner advised that the motor will accept up to 10V with an ESC, Receiver and a servo from Hobbyking.
The R/C gear is what was fitted when the previous owner converted it to battery and .
An initial brief look has revealed that there is a molded piece on the back of the wheels that is not present on the LGB wheels I compared them to which makes the distance of free axle shorter.
This causes the flanges to sit higher than the LGB ones when a side by side height comparison was carried out that actually allows them to overlap.
My thinking is that this molded piece can be filed down or the wheels could be tapped out along the axle and that will increase the side play.
Could I please ask someone who has an unmodified loco to weight it and let me know how much it weighs so that I can add extra weight to get it back to pre mod weight.
I will be installing a 9.6V battery (8AA NiMH), Peter Zenner advised that the motor will accept up to 10V with an ESC, Receiver and a servo from Hobbyking.
The R/C gear is what was fitted when the previous owner converted it to battery and .
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
Pictures of the wheels sorry about the quality.
My initial thinking was if I reduce the height by a small amount there will be some slop.
But further looking at it I now think it will not change the back to back spacing which is where the I think the movement should be and I am not sure if that will work either.
I will do some more testing once the loco is back running.
Thank you for the weight figures.
My initial thinking was if I reduce the height by a small amount there will be some slop.
But further looking at it I now think it will not change the back to back spacing which is where the I think the movement should be and I am not sure if that will work either.
I will do some more testing once the loco is back running.
Thank you for the weight figures.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
And my LGB one weighs 3.0Kgs!
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
Newquida loco is rebuilt and is a goer I installed a 9.6V battery and Hobbyking 2.4GHz R/C gear into it .
It weighs in at 1.4Kg so maybe a little extra weight could be introduced.
The front and back pony trucks have lead weights attached and there were no derailment issues except when hitting sticks and grass growing across the tracks (not the locos fault rather the maintenance gangs).
Initial testing; it pulled a boxcar around the layout and I even did some shunting through R1 points, it did struggle a bit through the points at slow speed but cruised through at a higher speed. I only used less than half throttle setting to get a realistic looking speed.
The blue LEDs looked a bit funny and I was going to replace them but SWMBO said she liked them so they will stay for the moment.
All in all for the price I paid $10 Aust it is not bad, now when kids come over I can say "here have a loco to run" and not be worried about any mishaps.
It is still a candidate for a good kit bash but for the moment it will stay as it is.
It weighs in at 1.4Kg so maybe a little extra weight could be introduced.
The front and back pony trucks have lead weights attached and there were no derailment issues except when hitting sticks and grass growing across the tracks (not the locos fault rather the maintenance gangs).
Initial testing; it pulled a boxcar around the layout and I even did some shunting through R1 points, it did struggle a bit through the points at slow speed but cruised through at a higher speed. I only used less than half throttle setting to get a realistic looking speed.
The blue LEDs looked a bit funny and I was going to replace them but SWMBO said she liked them so they will stay for the moment.
All in all for the price I paid $10 Aust it is not bad, now when kids come over I can say "here have a loco to run" and not be worried about any mishaps.
It is still a candidate for a good kit bash but for the moment it will stay as it is.