Newqida Rc Locomotive 2-6-2t, Recommended?

I was given one that has the centre wheels missing.
I like the body outline and a plan for it is to either put a decent motion work under it or get 2 stainz motion works and bash it into a custom built garret type loco.
The person who gave it to me bought it for $10 at a garage sale he pulled all the R/C out of it and put an ESC connected to a 2.4GHz receiver/transmitter combo from Hobbyking and ran it with that, the reason the middle wheels are missing is he took them off so that the loco would run around his tight curves. He did run it for fairly lengthy time each time it ran.
 
riderdan said:
I did the same (added metal wheels) and loosened the screws that hold the bogies to the coaches. That helped. I also added interior lights, powered by a AA battery pack located under the floor--this also helped add weight and lower the center of gravity. Whenever you have tracking problems, it's a good idea to check the wheel gauge. Most of my problems have been related to improper gauging of the wheelsets.

Generally, I'd steer clear of cheap locomotives. Not just the NQ one, but also the EZ-Tec and other cheap stuff. Rolling stock is easy--there's not much to it more than a plastic box and some wheels. Even the Chinese can get that right. Locos have to be well-made to be durable and reliable; and as my father often comments, "There's no Chinese word for quality"
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What - not even when used in conjunction with words like 'poor' and 'control'?:)

I do buy Chinese stuff sometimes - if you know what to expect, then you won't be upset when it arrives.
 
GAP said:
I was given one that has the centre wheels missing.
I like the body outline and a plan for it is to either put a decent motion work under it or get 2 stainz motion works and bash it into a custom built garret type loco.
The person who gave it to me bought it for $10 at a garage sale he pulled all the R/C out of it and put an ESC connected to a 2.4GHz receiver/transmitter combo from Hobbyking and ran it with that, the reason the middle wheels are missing is he took them off so that the loco would run around his tight curves. He did run it for fairly lengthy time each time it ran.
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If you run the text from the Zenner ebay posting (see above) through Google Translate, they do explain that one of the modifications they carry out on these locos is providing more play in the centre axle so that it will handle R1 curves.

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
If you run the text from the Zenner ebay posting (see above) through Google Translate, they do explain that one of the modifications they carry out on these locos is providing more play in the centre axle so that it will handle R1 curves.

Jon.
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I suppose the next steps would be;

a. Ask Zenner if the would send me the mechanism or the parts only and for how much so I could do it myself , which I have just done via email will await a reply or,

b. if I can find loco another real cheap to cannibalize for the missing wheels.

I have a couple of odd Stainz wheels that seem to fit.
 
The mechanism IS the LGB 2-6-2 chassis.
You might as well get a good secondhand LGB loco for a similar price.
 
Have to say I have one of the NQD 2-6-2t's and have only ever test run it. Thinking of stripping out the current RC and fitting a different syestem.

Re Stock, I convert all my NQD with Bachman Wheels and replacement Genuine LGB Couplings. Never any problems after that.
JonD
 
Reminds me of the old Lada car jokes. how do you double the value of a Lada?
 
riderdan said:
, "There's no Chinese word for quality"
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Mmmm, not quite true - the caboose is a museum quality scale brass model made in China, as is the steam Shay at the business end (although not museum quality due to the steam workings).

The truth is that it is all in the specification, and the management of the outsourcing.

PICT0008.JPG
 
F
SDJR7F88 said:
Would be interested to see how you get on with such a venture, as I'm thinking the same
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Fitting a new system would be the easy part, just gut everything except the motor and start again, its what I have done with all my locos.
My biggest concern would be if the motor can run efficiently at a higher voltage than 7.2V but if a 7.2V battery was used then there is no issue.

I have had a reply from Mr Peter Zenner and he said quote "The loco is a nearly a copy of LGB BR99-6001-4. All parts can be changed. So you can use the LGB-motor drive, which we can sell to you. Then you will have an analogue loco with stainless steel wheels. We also produce spare parts for it and sell LGB parts."

So basically all I have to do is get some LGB wheels and I am in business so to speak.

So many options so little time.
 
I would have to dig mine out..
BUT..
I think you would need the whole motor-block, not just the axles/wheels???
 
A reply from Mr Zenner overnight "I can send you the central wheels in plastic with a stainless steel axle. The transport costs are 4 Euro and two wheels on one axle costs 6 Euro. It is better that you send me a picture, to be sure that I send the right article."

Now to convert those Euro thingies to real money and get it to him. ;) ;) ;)
 
It's great that you can get hold of replacement and/or better wheels for the NQD loco, or get an upgraded version if you wish, but there must come a point when you'd be better off just buying a decent condition 2nd hand LGB 2-6-2T and fitting battery RC to it. I think treat the NQD for what it is, a cheap and cheerful probably short-term item.

As I've said, I have one and it does what I expect of it for the money I paid, but clearly the plastic doesn't have the quality of an LGB item and who knows what sort of state it'll be in a few years down the line?
 
I have to say that I tend to agree with Nick...... you can find a good condition genuine LGB 2-6-2 on eBay from around £250 (in fact there was one the other day that finished with no bids, and has just been re-listed), and with the amount of available space inside the boiler/tanks of this design it shouldn't be difficult to put a pack of Nimh rechargeables and a relatively inexpensive RC system in it.....
You would end up with a MUCH better quality loco, with the option of having it switchable between battery RC and track power if you wanted to set it up that way.

Jon.

Edit: please note this is more in response to the original posting about the suitability of the NQ loco in general, not to GAP's posts about doing upgrades to the one he already has..... how much does Zenner want for a new running power unit?
 
GAP said:
A reply from Mr Zenner overnight "I can send you the central wheels in plastic with a stainless steel axle. The transport costs are 4 Euro and two wheels on one axle costs 6 Euro. It is better that you send me a picture, to be sure that I send the right article."

Now to convert those Euro thingies to real money and get it to him. ;) ;) ;)
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Now, even though I read that as (in effect) an original centre axle they have removed, those seem very reasonable prices for the 'fiddle' of dealing with a one-off order.
Hats-off to Zenner..
:clap::clap::clap:
 
Zerogee said:
I have to say that I tend to agree with Nick...... you can find a good condition genuine LGB 2-6-2 on eBay from around £250 (in fact there was one the other day that finished with no bids, and has just been re-listed), and with the amount of available space inside the boiler/tanks of this design it shouldn't be difficult to put a pack of Nimh rechargeables and a relatively inexpensive RC system in it.....
You would end up with a MUCH better quality loco, with the option of having it switchable between battery RC and track power if you wanted to set it up that way.

Jon.

Edit: please note this is more in response to the original posting about the suitability of the NQ loco in general, not to GAP's posts about doing upgrades to the one he already has..... how much does Zenner want for a new running power unit?
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Unfortunately for me a new LGB 2-6-2 is way of the frame expense wise, plus the postage to Aust would almost double the price.

I am now kicking around getting the original wheels but they will have the same tight curve issue unless I can correct the lateral movement.

I could always go back to my original idea of finding a couple of cheap Stainz power units with motion work and kit bashing a custom built Garret type loco with the NQ mounted between the power units this would give me a big loco that will run on tight curves.

But if I get the original wheels and just wait till I build the new layout planned for when I retire, I can eliminate tight curves and the NQ will run on it OK.

OK I will stop now before my head explodes from all this thinking and just go have a beer. :D :D :D
 
PhilP said:
Now, even though I read that as (in effect) an original centre axle they have removed, those seem very reasonable prices for the 'fiddle' of dealing with a one-off order.
Hats-off to Zenner.

:clap::clap::clap:
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I agree that was a very generous offer so plus 1 for hats off for service from Mr Zenner.
 
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