New Member G Scale
- Thread starter Monifieth Stuart
- Start date
Always worth putting offers in, it costs you nothing, and you get 3 chances. Ridiculously low will get auto rejected. I find 10% below BIN has nearly always been enough to be accepted but I try lower first.
my diesel arrived safely today so I set it up for test. Looks really nice, clean and intact. However, when I turn it on it, the light goes on, then the loco sits for 2 or 3 seconds before setting off and picking up speed. same in reverse! Is this normal for these Schoema diesels? Stuart
I wonder if it is fitted with a decoder?
What is the 5 figure model number on the underside.
Can you take a photo please....
Following on from Gizzy 's comment about a decoder:
(as this is new to you, you may not know this)
A decoder is a bit of elektrickery majic that can make the loco start-off slowly, and build-up to the speed you have set.
Makes' driving 'the loco a little more realistic.
It is called' inertia' and is OK on starting-up, but can be a pain if you want to stop quickly!
(as this is new to you, you may not know this)
A decoder is a bit of elektrickery majic that can make the loco start-off slowly, and build-up to the speed you have set.
Makes' driving 'the loco a little more realistic.
It is called' inertia' and is OK on starting-up, but can be a pain if you want to stop quickly!
That makes sense as it does look realistic. I notice that the light does not come on until I move wee controller up to level 3 (1-4 available). Then the pause and away it goes. So looks like it needs more amps (?is that correct term) to move. On other hand it stops instantly if I turn back to zero.
Not necessarily more Amps..
The electronics has been told to behave that way..
Once you stick some 'intelligence' in a model, you can make it do more things..
The down-side is it might be a little more difficult for youngsters to control?
As an example :
If the loco had sound, many railways had an rule that you would sound the whistle /horn twice before moving forward, and three-times before moving backwards..
The electronics can have this programmed in, to happen automatically.
Lots of added 'play' value, but it does add to the cost, and you need a special power-supply (Central Station) and controller (Throttle) to make full use of the features.
PhilP
So it looks like my buy is a success. Still playing on living room carpet but I can put it away now until I get set up outside in the spring. Thanks for advice again. I live and learn. Stuart
Ok now that I have cleaned up the carpet (no I was lucky) and put the train away for the moment, can I ask what you do for clamping the rails together when I get to that stage. I see some people recommending Hillman clamps and then it turns out they are now defunct. I also saw a suggestion for grease on the ends of rails. Advice? StuartA patterned carpet, is a boon!
None of this plain beige rubbish!
Beware of small containers of oil.. Even Smoke Oil (euphemistically also called Cleaning Fluid)..
If you are using any form of track power, then you need the joints to be reasonably good, to transfer power one section to another..
Secondhand track is cheaper, and it can be ten's of years old. - Hence the joiners will probably have suffered?
You can get 'push-on' joiners, and there is the (so called) conductive grease. - Which does not conduct!
Stand old track, end-on, in cheap Coke, vinegar, or Brick Acid (CARE!).
This will clean the ends of the rail for you.. Rinse well..
Use a tiny amount (half a pea) of either the conductive grease, or Copaslip, when you make the joints.
This keeps moisture and air out of the joints, so slowing tarnish, which causes bad joints..
You can also buy various makes of screw clamps. - Google 'Massoth rail clamp' for instance.
PhilP
Secondhand track is cheaper, and it can be ten's of years old. - Hence the joiners will probably have suffered?
You can get 'push-on' joiners, and there is the (so called) conductive grease. - Which does not conduct!
Stand old track, end-on, in cheap Coke, vinegar, or Brick Acid (CARE!).
This will clean the ends of the rail for you.. Rinse well..
Use a tiny amount (half a pea) of either the conductive grease, or Copaslip, when you make the joints.
This keeps moisture and air out of the joints, so slowing tarnish, which causes bad joints..
You can also buy various makes of screw clamps. - Google 'Massoth rail clamp' for instance.
PhilP
Massoth and Piko do Track Clamps, these probably the easiest to source in U.K. but not the best option for now as you are using your set in a play and put away mode. If you are finding issues with loose fishplates and poor connectivity, for the moment a squeeze with pliers right next to the rail leaving the open part of the fishplate as is should help with power connectivity. You want to be able to push the next rail into the fishplate but feel it tight when the rails are touching.
I am struggling to find clamps. Looks like Massoth clamps are going the way of Hillman. Any sources? Stuart
Massoth Brass Rail Clamp 19mm
Solid brass, extruded rail connector for all G-gauge tracks (in CODE 332), such as LGB, PIKO, TrainLine45, Aristocraft, etc.
www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk
Stock in 1-2 weeks according to the website, but I’d check before ordering.
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