Mylocosound question?

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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Au contraire, mon ami. I bought mine from RCS in Oz (good exchange rate from the US,) and here's their manual:
Channel up/down buttons– Load Sensitivity. The soundcard can be programmed to make the engine loud when accelerating and softer when coasting and slowing down. The channel up/down buttons change the level of sensitivity as indicated by the number of beeps when pressed. One beep indicates maximum sensitivity. Five beeps sets minimum sensitivity i.e. the engine will be loud all the time. The default sensitivity is two and change to one if you want more sensitivity or three or more if the chuff sounds erratic.

The CH UP/DOWN works when not in programming mode - i.e. Mute not pressed, and while the loco is actually running; just as the volume controls volume while operating.
I actually sent a video link to Peter Lucas and here's the original (chuff sensitivity set to 2) You can hear the chuff sound cut out on the coasting section:

On this second video the sensitivity has been reduced.


Don't have an MLS handbook! My manual says this about button 7:
Button 7 Steam Chuff. The locomotive chuff can be generated in three ways:
1 beep Automatic chuff based on the motor voltage for two or four cylinders. (Default)
2 beeps Automatic chuff based on the motor voltage for locomotives with three cylinders.
3 beeps Mechanically triggered chuff. For locomotives which have a built in chuff trigger on an axle. The output from that chuff trigger needs to be connected to the F7 terminal on the soundcard. Note that the chuff trigger will function only when there is a voltage on the M1/M2 terminals.


My board is blue - maybe you have an old manual?
Nice Steam Tram, looks to be heavily LGB based. Sorry about the thread drift guys. Perhaps more detail in another thread please?

Back on track as it were I set my example up following Rik’s superb Vids and felt this needed to be acknowledged, the man is a genius.
 

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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Nice Steam Tram, looks to be heavily LGB based. Sorry about the thread drift guys. Perhaps more detail in another thread please?

Back on track as it were I set my example up following Rik’s superb Vids and felt this needed to be acknowledged, the man is a genius.
Aw shucks! The true genius is Peter for developing and producing such a marvellous soundcard.

Rik
 

Moonraker

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Peter ---- I'll be hornswoggled!!! I'm not sure exactly what that means myself but it otherwise certainly means you are absolutely RIGHT! I did exactly as you said and --- no more problem! The chuff works just like in Rik's video. The Locolinc Series 200 transmitter is fairly new and communicates with the receiver via wi-fi which dramatically expands the distance you can control your trains. As you said the old receivers had a small RF board wire connected to them for radio reception. To use the new transmitter you have to exchange the RF board with the "unique converter module" to receive wi-fi. I got the new transmitter just about six months ago and am still in the process of changing out RF boards on all my 15 engines --- just a couple more to go. So now my question is ---- is it the new "unique converter module" or is it the old KLR-202 receiver that is giving us the problem? Or both? What do we do now? Btw, the steam hiss actually shuts down after about a minute and a half ---this time I timed it.

Leave it with me for a day please. I want to talk to our engineer tomorrow and see if we can come up with a solution. We aim for our soundcards to be compatible with everything and don't expect customers to have to change their radio control to match the soundcard. Also, we have a collection of different brands of loco and radio controls and I want to see if we can reproduce the problem.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

Thornmini

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Leave it with me for a day please. I want to talk to our engineer tomorrow and see if we can come up with a solution. We aim for our soundcards to be compatible with everything and don't expect customers to have to change their radio control to match the soundcard. Also, we have a collection of different brands of loco and radio controls and I want to see if we can reproduce the problem.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
Thank you! I can't leave the solution in better hands as I agree with Rik. Good hunting, Mike
 

Moonraker

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Okay we have made some progress. We tried all the radio controls in our testing collection and found one which appeared to do the same as your LocoLinc when we ran it on blocks.

First we thought that things might improve if we got the loco motor doing some work by running it on the track. It did indeed reduce the problem so you might like to try that as well.

However the problem was still there. Therefore we did some work on the soundcard software to modify the smoothing of the motor voltage when it is read by the soundcard. This was successful and solved the problem on our loco. It is fixed in version 17E of the steam soundcard (there is a label on the back). I can't guarantee that it fixes your problem because we don't have a Series 200 LocoLinc and KLR-20 to try but it looks promising.

So, if the problem persists when you run your loco on the track then e-mail me at sales@mylocosound.com with your name, address and the retailer you bought the soundcard from. I will then send you a replacement soundcard to try and, when it is all sorted, you can send the old one back. There will be no charge.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

Thornmini

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Okay we have made some progress. We tried all the radio controls in our testing collection and found one which appeared to do the same as your LocoLinc when we ran it on blocks.

First we thought that things might improve if we got the loco motor doing some work by running it on the track. It did indeed reduce the problem so you might like to try that as well.

However the problem was still there. Therefore we did some work on the soundcard software to modify the smoothing of the motor voltage when it is read by the soundcard. This was successful and solved the problem on our loco. It is fixed in version 17E of the steam soundcard (there is a label on the back). I can't guarantee that it fixes your problem because we don't have a Series 200 LocoLinc and KLR-20 to try but it looks promising.

So, if the problem persists when you run your loco on the track then e-mail me at sales@mylocosound.com with your name, address and the retailer you bought the soundcard from. I will then send you a replacement soundcard to try and, when it is all sorted, you can send the old one back. There will be no charge.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
Quick work Peter -- I'll give it a go. A little busy today, and as the engine is in a disassembled state, I'll have to put it back together enough to run on track. I'll be back to you as soon as I can. And a very BIG thank you to you and your engineer. Have a great day, Mike
 

Thornmini

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Horror of horrors!!! ---- I have impecable timing. Before putting my Corpet engine back together, I thought I could try one more thing to narrow down the culprit. I still had a RF board from a previous wi-fi converter change-out so I figured I would remove the converter on my Corpet and put the old RF unit back on and see what she would do. I did a very foolish thing and left the battery power on while I was making the change and, in the process, I heard a little "snap" and saw a tiny wisp of smoke near the power terminals on the soundboard. Of course, it was too late as I switched everything off --- the board had die apparently having made contact with some other wiring or metal. Although I could see nothing cosmetically wrong with the board, no matter what buttons I pushed on the tv control, or put the wheels in motion or how many times I cycled the power switch, the board programming light never came on and not a peep came from the board. I'm sorry Peter --- I'm embarrassed to say I simply messed up at the worst time. But, I still want to take you up on your lovely offer of a new 17E board ---I will e-mail you. However, I responded here first so as not to keep everyone else in the dark wondering why there was a long delay in the proceedings.
 
Last edited:

Greg Elmassian

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Ahh, you released the magic smoke.

Too bad you are in the US, since in the UK, they have replacement smoke, you can put the smoke back into the circuit. First used in wiring harnesses for British cars: (don't think you can buy it here)

wire-harness-smoke-Custom.jpg
 

PhilP

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... And as you can see, it is 'positive earth' so good for DCC. :):nerd:
 

PhilP

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I put this smoke into the RC Trains wiring looms... That is why the Polyswitch fuse is in the negative lead.. :nerd:o_O:nerd:
 

Thornmini

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Ahh, you released the magic smoke.

Too bad you are in the US, since in the UK, they have replacement smoke, you can put the smoke back into the circuit. First used in wiring harnesses for British cars: (don't think you can buy it here)

wire-harness-smoke-Custom.jpg
I knew I'd be hearing about this for a while---- but I was dutifully WARNED so I'll take my medicine.
 

Thornmini

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That's what I like --- GOOD FAMILY SIBLING RIVALRY TYPE FUN!!
 

PhilP

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When you 'pop' something of your own... It is (apparently) character building..

When you 'pop' something belonging to a Client... It can be expensive! :eek::sweating::cry::rolleyes:
 

Thornmini

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Yeah, or you help a friend with a computer, and 10 years later it quits and it's because you worked on it...

Also, one "aw shit" cancels ten "atta boys"

Greg
"one aw shit cancels ten atta boys"
Sounds like something Confucius would have said.
 

Gavin Sowry

Garden Railroader and Raconteur
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Good old Lucas, the Prince of Darkness!

And, as for taking your medicine, I think I'd try something less toxic.....