MTS Decoder

[Gizzy]

I'm trying to find a 8-24 V dc output on this decoder in my Shoema V14 loco.

I assume it's a LGB 55021 decoder, but would anyone know if there is one before I start checking with my multi-meter.

I don't have any documentation for this decoder....

 

[Brixham]

It’s an ‘LGB’ onboard decoder, not a 55021. A quick google brings up images and pin outs. No dec+ labelled, but I think the smoke output MAY be dec+ and a switched ground. Never tried it.....usual disclaimer!
There’s also dec+ on the lighting outputs.

Malcolm

 

[PhilP]

The small blue connectors, go to the auxiliary sockets, for coach lighting etc.

You can use one of these.

PhilP

 

[Gizzy]

Thanks guys!

The blue connector, with the black and red wires looks like the way to go. I don't use the aux sockets as my coaches pick up from the wheels for lighting....

 

[Gizzy]

Hmmm, I'm not getting any volts from the blue Aux connector. Tried to see I'd a Function switched it on, tried all from F1 to F16.

I'm trying to power a Fosworks sound module from the Aux feed. I tried a PP3 battery but still no sound.

I was hoping that the Fosworks card would work, but I might have a faulty one....

 

[PhilP]

Hmmm, I'm not getting any volts from the blue Aux connector. Tried to see I'd a Function switched it on, tried all from F1 to F16.

I'm trying to power a Fosworks sound module from the Aux feed. I tried a PP3 battery but still no sound.

I was hoping that the Fosworks card would work, but I might have a faulty one....

What sort (and vintage) of card?

You need a dob of volts on a motor connection, as well as (correct polarity) power.

PhilP

 

[Gizzy]

What sort (and vintage) of card?

You need a dob of volts on a motor connection, as well as (correct polarity) power.

PhilP

It's a MYLOCOSOUND 20 D Light diesel which I was originally going to fit in the Piko 20 dinner track cleaner, but there isn't much room to play with, so I thought I'd fit it in a Schoema Shunter.

It has inputs from the motor and battery +&- screw terminals. I thought I could power the card from the Aux feed

 

[dunnyrail]

It's a MYLOCOSOUND 20 D Light diesel which I was originally going to fit in the Piko 20 dinner track cleaner, but there isn't much room to play with, so I thought I'd fit it in a Schoema Shunter.

It has inputs from the motor and battery +&- screw terminals. I thought I could power the card from the Aux feed

Gizzy have you looked at the fitting of a MLS card to DCC chip, not quite as you say so far as I can see. Hope I am not upsetting M Moonraker by including this extract from the MLS instructions.

 

[Gizzy]

Gizzy have you looked at the fitting of a MLS card to DCC chip, not quite as you say so far as I can see. Hope I am not upsetting M Moonraker by including this extract from the MLS instructions.
View attachment 317160

Those are the instructions I'm following JD....

 

[Cranford]

I'm trying to find a 8-24 V dc output on this decoder in my Shoema V14 loco.

I assume it's a LGB 55021 decoder, but would anyone know if there is one before I start checking with my multi-meter.

I don't have any documentation for this decoder....

View attachment 316680

You have to connect the sound card to the output that goes to the motor , there is not a variable output on any decoder, the voltages are all set via an appropriate cv. You have no control over the sound card. to do that you need a sound decoder module.

 

[Gizzy]

Hullo Tony,

yes I've connected both the motor feed and a fixed voltage (both a PP3 battery and from the decoder Aux feed) to the MLS card inputs IAW the instructions as seen on Dunny's post.

I get a feint clicking on the Fosworks supplied speaker sometimes.

I'll investigate further today....

 

[PhilP]

A few 'gotchas' :

The metal 'paddles' (in the screw-terminal connectors) go upwards when you tighten the screws. - Make sure the wire is above the metal part, before tightening.

Faint clicks, is usually too low a supply voltage, but I would test the card standalone first. - Minimum to get sound, is a speaker, 9V battery, then touch between battery positive and either motor connection. You can use the tips of your pliers, tweezers, or bent paperclip for this.
You should hear the motor sound.

The auxiliary socket is (in effect) track power, but this being a later decoder, there may be more to it than that? - Without a full schematic, we are guessing a little.

PhilP

 

[Gizzy]

A few 'gotchas' :

The metal 'paddles' (in the screw-terminal connectors) go upwards when you tighten the screws. - Make sure the wire is above the metal part, before tightening.

Faint clicks, is usually too low a supply voltage, but I would test the card standalone first. - Minimum to get sound, is a speaker, 9V battery, then touch between battery positive and either motor connection. You can use the tips of your pliers, tweezers, or bent paperclip for this.
You should hear the motor sound.

The auxiliary socket is (in effect) track power, but this being a later decoder, there may be more to it than that? - Without a full schematic, we are guessing a little.

PhilP

Thanks Phil,

I was aware of the screw terminal 'gotcha'.

I've re-instated the loco back to how it was, and I'm going to bench test the MLS card using a battery and a spare LGB controller later this afternoon, as you have now suggested....

 

[Gizzy]

I connected the MLS card to a LGB 50083 controller I normally use with a wheel brush, to simulate a LGB motor.

I still get the clicking.

So I checked both PP3 batteries I'd used for testing. 9V off load, but 4V when connected to the card?

I wonder if this is my problem? They are old PP3s, but seemed to be charged....