Mods to LGB WP&Y 2-8-2 no73

B

baldwin 47

Registered
Hi
I am a new member and I’m basically asking people for advice and information about a current project that I am working on.
I am trying to work out the best way to correct one of the issues with the LGB White Pass 2-8-2 no73, namely the well known fact that the drivers are too large.
I am considering replacing the drivers with new ones closer to the 44” examples of the prototype and replacing the frame and using the original cylinders and valve gear as much as practicable.
Adjustments to accommodate the differences in ride height and spacing of drivers including lowering the cylinders, and other factors would all have to be addressed.
Ultimately I would like to keep the components available to reverse the entire process should I decide to sell at some point.
My intention would be to have the new frame and running gear as an unpowered unit but able to roll freely.
I would think that the new frame could be fabricated in brass or 3D printed, and the wheels would have to have the same throw as the original to allow some use of the model’s rods and valve gear as much as possible.
Has anyone done this before?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, especially regarding the design of the frame and its suitability for 3D printing, perhaps in sections due to the size of the wheelbase.
Cheers baldwin47
 
Welcome to the forum, Baldwin. Looks like you've set yourself a little project! There may be somebody on here who has had the same ideas.
 
Welcome to the Forum, you have not declared your country in your side bar so not sure if you are in UK. But Walsall could possibly sell suitable wheels.

Gauge '1' Driving Cast Iron Wheel Castings | Model Tarins & Parts

Gauge '1' Driving cast iron wheel castings and model train parts from Walsall Model Industries. Providers of Model steam heating pipes, Model Steam Engines and railway wheels for you model steam engine from Walsall Model Industries, UK
www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk
 
Welcome to the Forum!

Have you checked the other dimensions?
Knowing LGB's knack for making things look 'right' running together, there may well be other compromises?

This seems like a lot of work, with no guarantee you will be able to make the model run particularly well.
All power to your modelling elbow, but think long and hard, before starting..

Please, if you do start, create a build-thread. If nothing else, you will get admiration and encouragement, from many of us.

PhilP.
 
Thanks for the interest in my project. I’ve been told that it’s not advisable to reduce the flange depth on LGB wheels with their plastic centres because they either crack or shatter when turned on a lathe. Is this true?
 
LGB wheels are plated brass..
I would think the plating layers could well 'snatch'.
You could try clamping a disk of metal to the tyre?

I don't think the plastic centres would provide enough support on their own?

You will also end up with bare brass, rather than the harder nickel/chrome plating.

I think you would be better looking to replace the wheels?

If you are intending to be track-powered, you have the additional problems of picking up power, but both being isolated from each other.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
LGB wheels are plated brass..
I would think the plating layers could well 'snatch'.
You could try clamping a disk of metal to the tyre?

I don't think the plastic centres would provide enough support on their own?

You will also end up with bare brass, rather than the harder nickel/chrome plating.

I think you would be better looking to replace the wheels?

If you are intending to be track-powered, you have the additional problems of picking up power, but both being isolated from each other.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, won’t be doing that then!
 
baldwin 47 said:
Hi
I am a new member and I’m basically asking people for advice and information about a current project that I am working on.
I am trying to work out the best way to correct one of the issues with the LGB White Pass 2-8-2 no73, namely the well known fact that the drivers are too large.
I am considering replacing the drivers with new ones closer to the 44” examples of the prototype and replacing the frame and using the original cylinders and valve gear as much as practicable.
Adjustments to accommodate the differences in ride height and spacing of drivers including lowering the cylinders, and other factors would all have to be addressed.
Ultimately I would like to keep the components available to reverse the entire process should I decide to sell at some point.
My intention would be to have the new frame and running gear as an unpowered unit but able to roll freely.
I would think that the new frame could be fabricated in brass or 3D printed, and the wheels would have to have the same throw as the original to allow some use of the model’s rods and valve gear as much as possible.
Has anyone done this before?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, especially regarding the design of the frame and its suitability for 3D printing, perhaps in sections due to the size of the wheelbase.
Cheers baldwin47
Click to expand...
Can anyone advise which coupler, working or dummy, would fit tender of WP&Y 2-8-2 ?
Also where I can get brake hoses etc ?
 

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baldwin 47 said:
to have the new frame and running gear
Click to expand...
Some years ago I built a brass chassis for a 2-8-0 using conventional techniques, starting with 1/16 x 1" brass strip. I used Bachmann 4-6-0 wheels, (of which you might check the size, in case they are what you want!)

IMG_2352-ebt4-2-8-0-chassis-6.jpg


I did put the front wheels in a rocking frame so that I essentially had a proper 3-leg stool suspension. The center, flangeless wheels, were allowed to move up above the axle centers, so they wouldn't stop the 2 end axles from touching the rails.
 
I find the LGB knuckle to be way too big for my engines, so I went with the Kadee coupler and they make a 2 different size smaller couplers. I like the larger Kadee for outdoors and the smaller Kadee for indoors. Smaller Kadee looks great on the small FRR (Field railway) rolling stock.
 
Fred2179G said:
Some years ago I built a brass chassis for a 2-8-0 using conventional techniques, starting with 1/16 x 1" brass strip. I used Bachmann 4-6-0 wheels, (of which you might check the size, in case they are what you want!)

View attachment 341678


I did put the front wheels in a rocking frame so that I essentially had a proper 3-leg stool suspension. The center, flangeless wheels, were allowed to move up above the axle centers, so they wouldn't stop the 2 end axles from touching the rails.
Click to expand...
Hi
Thanks for your interest. That looks like a very interesting project. I always wondered why LGB simply didn’t use flangeless centre drivers instead of the over complicated articulated drive system.
 
baldwin 47 said:
Hi
Thanks for your interest. That looks like a very interesting project. I always wondered why LGB simply didn’t use flangeless centre drivers instead of the over complicated articulated drive system.
Click to expand...
Probably to get the loco round R1 curves one of their standard requirements in the day. There was a 0-8-0 tank (Rungen) that did not have this but it was smaller wheels and shorter wheelbase.

LGB G scale 28001 DR Rugen 0-8-0 Tank Locomotive 99 4633 boxed VGC - The Model Railway Club

In great condition. From a collection that has been very lightly used, and very well cared for and comes in original box. Runs very smoothly with all lights working
www.themodelrailwayclub.org www.themodelrailwayclub.org
 
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