LOOP COUPLERS ON ARISTOCRAFT

[Gavin Sowry]

8| Just tried replacing some Aristocraft couplers with stock standard Loop and Hook couplers. They foul the axle. Parts diagram shows these couplers as an alternative. Question, are the Aristocraft Loop and Hook couplers an Aristocraft special, or is there a secret recipie...... :impatient:

 

[beavercreek]

The Aristo hook and loops are slightly different Gavin.

ARISTO

LGB

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Thanks, I thought as much. I also tried swapping trucks.... USAT trucks do not work under Aristocraft wagons, they tend to catch, and derail on R1 curves.

 

[funandtrains]

The Aristo-Craft hook and loop couplers are actually an old REA design and don't fit most new Aristo-Craft wagons very well if at all without modification. The spings tend to pop out if knocked and get lost plus on some wagons the couplers are mounted a little low and the tail catches on track magnets, level crosings etc. I have shortened the tail on those I have fitted to avoid this. The orginal Delton hook and loop design was much better and a real pity that Aristo-Craft choose to drop this in facour of the REA type.

 

[Andrew]

I cut a piece off the lowest bit of the coupler, so it passes over the points with out catching. I also use an old credit card on a piece of timber dowel to insert between couplings. push down and twist to decouple. Photo from Paul "Stainz" Holt site
http://linzgstadtbahn.webs.com/tipsandtricks.htm
Andrew
Sandbar and Mudcrab Railway

 

[walkerart]

Hi folks,
I just changed back to LGB hook loop.
Three of my stock had Aristocraft… the springs rust where as the LGB ones use a plastic spring ( mind I am running outside)
I had tried knuckle coupling but found them tricky as they seem not to make a dcc uncoupling unit… so gone old school.
Now massoth do make a pair of dcc hook loop uncouple units they look great as the have check plate covers which look better than a toy type thing and weathered with rust etc are good.

Also my reason for moving away from knucle was I hope to uncouple and then be able to shunt back without reconnecting …. So the hook stays up.

Anyone who wants to tell me I’ve missed something please do. I’m learning xx

Tested lights today I’m very pleased x
And weathering is coming on x

Thanks
Chris

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi folks,
I just changed back to LGB hook loop.
Three of my stock had Aristocraft… the springs rust where as the LGB ones use a plastic spring ( mind I am running outside)
I had tried knuckle coupling but found them tricky as they seem not to make a dcc uncoupling unit… so gone old school.
Now massoth do make a pair of dcc hook loop uncouple units they look great as the have check plate covers which look better than a toy type thing and weathered with rust etc are good.

Also my reason for moving away from knucle was I hope to uncouple and then be able to shunt back without reconnecting …. So the hook stays up.

Anyone who wants to tell me I’ve missed something please do. I’m learning xx

Tested lights today I’m very pleased x
And weathering is coming on x

Thanks
Chris

LGB hook and loop are indeed a very good option, but for better reliability it is best to have hooks both ends of stock but no hooks on the locomotives. To compensate for this and make things more reliable I lower the loop on locomotives by between 20 and 30 thou, this ensures no unwanted uncoupling takes place. As for auto uncouplers, well yes if you keep your stock in set rakes then having one each end can allow the locomotive to run round hands free but I fail to see the benefit of that compared to the complexity and cost of fitting, but that is just me.