Lgb kof 0-6-0 battery conversion
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Mmmm, as this is a boy's hobby, and is based on all that boys love to do, the usual procedure is to remove every screw in sight before asking questions
That’s my standard procedure, things come apart easily, but trying to rebuild things correctly can be a challenge!
I’d thought I’d ask for pointer before dismantling everything
Dan
You forgot to mention losing a few, in the process.. 
Post #2 in this thread.. Loco was part of a set with this number:
www.gscalecentral.net
PhilP.
Post #2 in this thread.. Loco was part of a set with this number:
LGB 20590 or 21590 Kof Breakdown Diagrams - G Scale Central
How tedious as I have found this in the past and now lost it and need to pull mine to bits to sort out a problem. Not present on Only Trains or Model Railway Forum listings which are in my bookmarks. Any help appreciated. JonD
PhilP.
Mine is a sightly different version, but my notes say . . .
undo two screws on cab backsheet (smallest screws, when you want to put them back!)
undo four screws on underside of running board - may need to rotate wheels to move connecting rods out of the way (mid-sized screws . . .)
undo two rearmost screws on "block" - either side of coupling (largest screws . . .)
This should allow the bonnet/cab to be separated from the motor block/running board.
You will need to remove the two tool boxes before you can separate the cab from the bonnet.
Hope this helps
David
I would respectfully suggest that if you cant dis-assemble it, perhaps your not ready to start converting locos. I have seen too many battery conversions that just dont work that well (millions of exception of course).
For example, once all the screws are out, do you know how to re-quarter all the wheel sets to prevent binding on re assembly?
For example, once all the screws are out, do you know how to re-quarter all the wheel sets to prevent binding on re assembly?
It's always helpful to know the risks, but by removing the eight screws I described in my earlier message, and NOT any of the five along the centreline of the underside of the motor block, the motor block and running boards aren't separated, so there is no chance of the wheels needing re-quartering.
All the best
David
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To do a Battery Conversion on one of these you will not need to pull the Chassis apart unless you wish to remove the Skates which is a recommended job. This can be done towards the end and would only need the 5 screws undone in the middle of the Chassis as shown in your pic. The two at the outside may be what assists the Chassis removal in one bit. However taking all of the screws out and dismantling the Chassis is not the way to go. I pulled one of these apart some time back and the Chassis is a one part piece almost removable in one. There was little space inside the body for the Chip and speaker so for a Battery Conversion you would need to discard the very large weight inside that body. Not too much of an issue as the Batteries will return some but not all of the weight. Thus haulage would be partially reduced.
You really need the LGB Break Down Drawings for this little beastie which will show you the way in and back out. I remember that some of the normal sites do not have the actual drawing for your 20590 perhaps some kind soul can link it for you.
You really need the LGB Break Down Drawings for this little beastie which will show you the way in and back out. I remember that some of the normal sites do not have the actual drawing for your 20590 perhaps some kind soul can link it for you.
I took some pics of which two screws to take out so the block is removable as a whole unit.
The pics are still in my camera and I am away from home until later today.
I will upload them as soon as I can.
The pics are still in my camera and I am away from home until later today.
I will upload them as soon as I can.
Sorry about taking so long, but here is the pic.
This actually from a different model but it looks to be the same.
Only two screws hold the motor block into the chassis.
Screw locations shown by yellow pointers.
This actually from a different model but it looks to be the same.
Only two screws hold the motor block into the chassis.
Screw locations shown by yellow pointers.
