LGB 5075 instructions

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I'm looking for the LGB 5075 switch box instructions, as I was unable to find them on the LGB site or elsewhere.
my_photo-416.jpg
I would like to wire it to control two LGB electric points. I have a bunch of diodes already. If anyone can provide a link to the instructions or explain how to wire it or what the role of each connector on the back is, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
i just googled lgb 5075 manual:

docs.google.com

Lgb 5075 manual

Lgb 5075 manual Click here to download Lgb 5075 n controller stellpu germany track transformer signal, g scale 2 lgb 5075 n controller stellpu germany track transformer signal,. 2 lgb 5075 switch control boxes 1 red 1 orange. G scale lgb 5075 n momentary switch control box new. Lg...
docs.google.com docs.google.com
Click to expand...

Thanks for the effort, but that link was not successful. When I clicked the download link it took me to a porn site of some sort, and there was no download. Also the image of the switchbox on that site did not match my 5075. Mine has fewer and larger connectors on the back:
my_photo-417.jpg
 
Here is a photo of how I wired my 5075. The diodes could actually be installed inside the case, but I chose the simpler external wiring to a terminal strip. The diodes alternate in polarity to the even numbered terminals from the yellow and green screws on the 5075. A wire goes from each of the white screws to the odd numbered terminals. The diode capacity is far greater than needed, but I had them on hand. This worked fine on my newer EPL switch machines. 5075 Wiring.jpg
 
Sorry, it looked like part of the manual at first glance, i for sure did not try the download link.... that was clear...

This one looks old with the binding posts. The successor is a 51750, but it has the diodes inside already.

I found the service manual for it, but not the operating manual. It seems the manual for the 5075 might have been part of a larger manual encompassing more equipment.

service manual link (pretty worthless) https://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/5075-1.pdf

I found a reference in the gdb LGB Stellpult (Control Box) - GartenBahn DatenBank

but the only stuff is pictures, it does confirm that these are just switches, and no diodes, there apparently was one with diodes 5075N

it's shown with a small schematic about page 106 of the 1981 catalog:


In any case, you have the answer from FatherMcD above.
 
FatherMcD said:
Here is a photo of how I wired my 5075. The diodes could actually be installed inside the case, but I chose the simpler external wiring to a terminal strip. The diodes alternate in polarity to the even numbered terminals from the yellow and green screws on the 5075. A wire goes from each of the white screws to the odd numbered terminals. The diode capacity is far greater than needed, but I had them on hand. This worked fine on my newer EPL switch machines. View attachment 263737
Click to expand...
Thanks. This is what I pictured but now I can be sure. Does the switch box need power to the terminals on the side of the box as well?
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Sorry, it looked like part of the manual at first glance, i for sure did not try the download link.... that was clear...

This one looks old with the binding posts. The successor is a 51750, but it has the diodes inside already.

I found the service manual for it, but not the operating manual. It seems the manual for the 5075 might have been part of a larger manual encompassing more equipment.

service manual link (pretty worthless) https://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/5075-1.pdf

I found a reference in the gdb LGB Stellpult (Control Box) - GartenBahn DatenBank

but the only stuff is pictures, it does confirm that these are just switches, and no diodes, there apparently was one with diodes 5075N

it's shown with a small schematic about page 106 of the 1981 catalog:


In any case, you have the answer from FatherMcD above.
Click to expand...
The 1981 catalog is interesting. I didn't expect to see playmobil in there. The service manual helped slightly, though I had already found that previously. It would be nice to open the box to put the diodes inside, but I don't see how it can be opened after seeing the service manual, since the tabs don't appear flexible. It at least prevented me from fruitlessly gouging the plastic tabs.
 
-bbbb said:
Thanks. This is what I pictured but now I can be sure. Does the switch box need power to the terminals on the side of the box as well?
Click to expand...
Yes, you have to run AC to the input studs on the right side. The LGB transformer I use puts out 20VAC. These controls were intended to be plugged into a series of control boxes and I suppose you could feed the power on the left side instead if you have banana plugs, but be sure to cover the input studs in that case.
 
FatherMcD said:
Yes, you have to run AC to the input studs on the right side. The LGB transformer I use puts out 20VAC. These controls were intended to be plugged into a series of control boxes and I suppose you could feed the power on the left side instead if you have banana plugs, but be sure to cover the input studs in that case.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thanks. I have 18 V AC. I was originally thinking that the AC went directly to the point motor on one end, and the other side of the AC went through the switch with diodes to the other side of the point motor. But since the AC goes directly to the side of the switch box, does that mean the two terminals you have for each switch go directly to the two terminals of the point motor?

edit: I tested this and the second option is how it works, thanks guys! mission accomplished.
 
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Yes. One wire from the point motor goes to the terminal that connects to the grey wire from the 5075 and the other wire from the point motor goes to the terminal that the two diodes connect to. Be sure that the grey bands (or however the polarity is marked) on your diode pairs are on opposite ends. You can see that most clearly on the top pair in the picture. (the grey blob is just some lint that I didn't notice until after I took the picture.) If the point motor operates in the opposite direction from what you want when you press the rocker switch inside the 4075, just reverse the wires at the switch point motor. The external diodes are a rather clunky setup, but my controls were under cover so I chose to go quick and dirty rather than slow and elegant. BTW, the tabs on the end are stiff, but with some care you can open the box. The interior is actually rather crowded, which also contributed to my decision to put the diodes on the outside.
 
Here is the 5075 manual you are looking for. I scanned an original LGB brochure 1200/35. The copy I had was dated February 1982. I do not see a copyright notice however I must give Ernst Paul Lehmann credit. I tried uploading it as a single .pdf document but it was too big at 20Mb. I don't have the ability to save it in a compressed format. It's 12 pages in all.

.Scan 1.jpegScan 2.jpegScan 3.jpegScan 4.jpegScan 5.jpegScan 6.jpegScan 7.jpegScan 8.jpegScan 9.jpegScan 10.jpegScan 11.jpegScan 12.jpeg

The 5075 was for operating the old LGB twin-coil switch motors used on turnouts, signals, and uncoupling tracks. If my memory serves me correctly the 5075N switch box was the first to have built-in diodes and was released when LGB came out with the original EPL drives. The "N" was also appended to turnouts that had the (Neu or New?) EPL drives. For example, the 1205 had a twin-coil drive and the 1205N had an EPL drive. The 5075N can only be used with the EPL switch motors and will not operate the older the twin-coil drives.

FatherMcD's pic in post 4 shows how to modify a 5075 using diodes to operate EPL switch motors.

Edited to correct my misstatement above about the 5075N - it CAN be used with both twin-coil and EPL drives! White and Orange terminals for EPL drives or White, Yellow, and Green terminals for twin-coil machines.
 
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Warning - a bit of thread drift. I just came across this from LGB when putting away the previously posted brochure. This is 1200 N/17 and is an addendum included with the original EPL turnouts. Thought others might find it interesting.
1200 N_17-1.jpeg1200 N_17-2.jpeg
 
there is just one thing to add to all that said above:
the needed AC power is not as high, as mentioned above.
the old (european) starter-pack 5002 came with an AC output of 15V - 7VA.
that pack has enough power for two epl switch-motors to be moved simultanously.
(that pack came with my first starterpack in 1969 or 1970. still going strong.)
 
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