LGB 22155

Sounds like I'll need some sort of degree in this :D Here is a video of it earlier today. It likes straight sections but as soon as it hits the curves it starts to slip, I've been told it could be the pick ups but they aren't exactly sticky although they are a bit on the tender.

 
Hmmm, yes, a lot of slip there! I'd suggest a motor in the tender PLUS a bit more weight in both loco and tender.....

Jon,
 
I'm going to buy a motor in the next few days.. I've wanted to put sound in the tender as well, which sound unit does it need? Or would it be easier to buy a sound tender?
 
Although looking at the inside of one of the tenders the wiring is beyond my level of expertise :rofl:, and a tender alone seems to be about £300! More then the loco itself.. Might just have to stick with the sound wagon, although it doesn't look to have any sockets for it to plug in to. :worried:
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
I'm going to buy a motor in the next few days.. I've wanted to put sound in the tender as well, which sound unit does it need? Or would it be easier to buy a sound tender?
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If you want sound that works on analogue DC (which I'm assuming you are using at the moment) but would also work with DCC if and when you ever decided to upgrade, then I'd suggest a Massoth S (around £100-£120) - very easy to fit, only requires two connections, to track power (brown and white wires) and plugging in the speaker. Sound module and speaker will fit easily in the tender.

Simple to fit at the same time as you're installing the tender motor, you can take the track power off the inner two pins of the gearbox unit at the same time as you connect them to the motor pins.

Jon.
 
From your video I am pretty sure the skates are dragging.
 
I've been thinking that Alan but I can't tell! The tender skates seem pretty stiff and the loco ran a lot better on its own without the tender and pulled the 2 coaches no problem. it'll pull 2 coaches on the straights no problem but as soon as it hits a curve! Nope it stops
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
I've been thinking that Alan but I can't tell! The tender skates seem pretty stiff and the loco ran a lot better on its own without the tender and pulled the 2 coaches no problem. it'll pull 2 coaches on the straights no problem but as soon as it hits a curve! Nope it stops
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Check the skates are free. You should feel a spring pressure when you push them down.

If not, you will need to do a little fettling....
 
I've got a old Schoma that I'm thinking of taking the motor out of simply to get this loco working properly and putting a new motor in the Schoma.
 
Taken the Schoma apart.. Pretty clean for its age, now before I do anything else can someone tell me for definite that this will work!
IMG_2537[1].JPG
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
Taken the Schoma apart.. Pretty clean for its age, now before I do anything else can someone tell me for definite that this will work!
View attachment 220224
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Depends on the lengths of the motor spindles/worm gears I think?

The motor should just slot in and mesh on the gears if it does, so maybe at this point you will have to suck it and see....
 
As Gizzy said, there should be only one way the motor will fit - there should be a tiny round lug on one end that fits into a slot in the gearbox moulding (or possibly, there is a separate plastic ring with the little lug, that slips over the bearing cover on the end of the motor?). As long as the brass power tabs of the motor are pressing against the outer two contact pins then it should be fine. Does the model have a black plastic four-pin plug that goes onto the gearbox pins, which then leads power to the tender's rear lamp? If so, are there jumper connections on the plug itself joining each outer pin to its inner companion?

Jon.
 
I got the motor to fit the wheels are turning when you turn the worm gears, the two outer contact pins do not got to the pick ups, so it'll be to do with the four pin plug that powers the light!
IMG_2541[1].JPG
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
Well to no surprise nothing happened! Why can't this be easy!
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Nothing will happen until the power pins are connected to the motor pins, as the motor's not getting any power! If you have a couple of small electrical croc clips (prefereably the ones with plastic insulation over them, but if not then just be careful not to let them touch!), then just put one clip over each pair of pins, and try it again - the motor should run.....

Jon.
 
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