LGB 2017D decoder fitting

Nighthaunt

Nighthaunt

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Hi Everyone,

Really hoping someone's able to offer some guidance / help.

I have a Yellow LGB US outline 0-4-0 loco (model label is 23171 but model number from catalogues is 2017D).

I have an LGB 55021 decoder I can either fit in this or an Lehman Porter engine (dinosaur fantasy rusty engine).

I would prefer to fit the decoder to this loco 2017D but it looks like a major rewire type job as no circuit board or any wires other than those to front light - and I'm not experienced wiring and a bit clueless :(

Any advice gratefully received - I've googled but with no help as this isn't a Stains.

Alex
 
Basicly a 2017 is a stainz, same motor block, either a sandwitch block or split block.
If a split block you will need to isolate the pickups from the motor and solder leads directly to the motor.
Not my field, but have done the alterations on the block for people to fit the decoders
 
If there is no circuit board in the 2017 at all, then it's PROBABLY an old "clamshell" or "split" gearbox - does it have a seam line running down the centre of the gearbox when viewed from underneath? Also, are the driving wheels held onto the axles with slotted screws in the wheel hubs?

Modifying a clamshell gearbox for DCC fitment is not difficult, provided you can solder a bit and you're happy with taking the loco apart.

Couple of other questions, has your 2017 got a motorised tender? If so, it's the equivalent of a two-motor loco and the 55021 might not be up to the job - these decoders were really designed for single motor locos only, and you might need a second separate one for the tender motor.
Also, has your 55021 still got its four wire leads on it (the brown-white-yellow-green set)? If it's new then it will have these, if it's a second hand one it MIGHT have had them cut off if it's been used for a direct plug-in installation.

Jon.
 
Hi Jon,

No tender - just the loco - And looking at it upside down there's not a join line down the middle - it has screws and the one piece cover seems to lift straight up (not tried it yet).

55021 coming from Germany - brand new so should have its cables. I'm thinking might be worth seeing if anyone who's local to me and experienced fancied being paid to fit (can try Chalk Garden Rail as there only about 45 minutes drive away).

Lack the confidence to modify - lack of experience :(

Regards and Thanks

Alex

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 
Chalks about 10 mins walk from me, My local shop, Peter's a nice guy
 
These links might be of help....

http://shop.waltonsmodels.co.uk/Stainz.php

http://www.homestyal.co.uk/html/hlr_digital_decoder.html
 
Nighthaunt said:
Hi Jon,

No tender - just the loco - And looking at it upside down there's not a join line down the middle - it has screws and the one piece cover seems to lift straight up (not tried it yet).

55021 coming from Germany - brand new so should have its cables. I'm thinking might be worth seeing if anyone who's local to me and experienced fancied being paid to fit (can try Chalk Garden Rail as there only about 45 minutes drive away).

Lack the confidence to modify - lack of experience :(

Regards and Thanks

Alex

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

OK then, that's a later model than I would have guessed - it's got the "sandwich" type gearbox..... the next question is whether it has three wiring pins or four..... what stickers are on the bottom of the loco? There may be a little round gold one which is the QC sticker and also tells you the year of manufacture, but there may also be another round one in black and white or silver - if there is one, could you describe it?

Jon.
 
Gold round sticker - number is 901015. There is also the black model number sticker - DC and 2 lines above O-22v all to left of 23171 and then to right is box outline with what looks like wheels (2) at base and diamond on top.

Sorry I'm not more use Jon.

Many Thanks

Alex

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
 
No problem, Alex! OK, the gold sticker shows the loco was made in 1995 - the first and last digits of the 6-digit number, 9 and 5, give the year.
If the only other sticker there is the rectangular one with the model number, then it may not be a DCC-ready gearbox - but it is still possible, as some made around that time were being prepared for the introduction of DCC before it was actually available.
Right, one more question: Is there a letter "D" embossed in the actual plastic of the gearbox bottom plate? Not a label, but a smallish D moulded into the plastic at one end of the bottom of the motor unit?

If the D is there, you're in luck and it's a four-pin gearbox, so fitting the decoder will be a simple matter of plugging it onto the pins. If there is NO moulded D, then it will almost certainly be a 3-pin gearbox which will need a little more work - don't panic, it's still quite easy to do!
I do say "almost" certainly because there is often a bit of overlap with many LGB products, they tended to keep using parts and mouldings till they ran out of them, and '95 was somewhere around the time that they first started to think about DCC for the future.

Best,

Jon.
 
I agree with the above and suggest you presume a 3 pin gearbox, If it`s a four pin you will have a pleasant surprise as the job will be easier and perhaps cheaper if you have it done by a dealer.

Edit, misleading info removed.
 

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All LGB model number labels on locos seem to carry that symbol, Neil - I've just checked on a 2000-model Stainz and it's there. Not sure what it means, but don't think it's anything to do with overhead pickups.

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
All LGB model number labels on locos seem to carry that symbol, Neil - I've just checked on a 2000-model Stainz and it's there. Not sure what it means, but don't think it's anything to do with overhead pickups.

Jon.
Click to expand...

Jon, I've just done a bit more research and modified my post.
I now think it just means an electrically powered model.
 
Well no moulded D on the base - so as with Jon expect it to be a 3 connection model.

Will try and take motor unit apart tomorrow ;)

Thanks

Alex

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
 
Don't take the baseplate off the gearbox unit at this stage - you're better off dismantling the loco body and then dropping the complete gearbox and coupling-rods ("motion") away from the underside of the loco. To convert a 3-pin gearbox to a 4-pin DCC compatible one, you'll need to get at the TOP of the gearbox so that you can lift the motor out. As you dismantle the loco, you'll probably find there are three wires going to the motor block - green, brown and white. For DCC fitting, you will need to add a fourth (yellow) wire, and at the same time isolate the white pin from the motor terminal that presses against it. When you take the top plate off the gearbox, you'll see what I mean. The simplest way of doing it is to gently bend the motor terminal outward away from the metal pin, then slip some heat-shrink tube over the pin to isolate it; then you solder a new yellow wire directly to that terminal of the motor, and pass this wire through a little hole drilled into the top plate, so that it comes out next to the pin marked white (WS in German). What you'll then have is four connections - the green and the new yellow go to the two motor terminals, while the brown and white carry the power picked up by the wheels and skates. In its simplest form, that is what you need for the basic connection to the four matching wires on the driving decoder. You'll need to re-wire the lights to the relevant terminals on the decoder too, but that is something that we can worry about when you get to it!

Jon.
 
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