Alexander0654
Registered
The object is to transform a very simple loco into something a little special. And to learn along the way. To support the text I have created a Media Album " LGB 2090 Decoder Fitting " and will reference pictures by number.
The LGB 2090 is as basic as it comes. ( Picture 1 ) No lights or sound. Both will be present once the conversion is finished.
I start by testing the loco. This ensures that any future failure is related to the conversion and not a fault that existed before starting.
Removing the Cab, Engine cover and Foot Plate revels a single Contact Pin marked WS ( German weiß ) - White and 2 pins joined by a bridging wire. These are marked br ( German braun ) - Brown and gr ( German grün ) Green. ( Pic 9 ) Picture 11 shows the motor terminals contacting with pins ws and gr, with pin br being insulated from the motor terminals. It is also clear that LGB Gearbox Grease is non-conductive. Turning the block over and removing the motor block under cover. ( Pic 12 ) The function of each pin is now clear. Pin ws being the power conductor on the Port Side, br the conductor on the Stb. Side and gr a motor contact. ( Pic 13 ) Hence the need for the bridging wire.
Picture 14 shows the need for an additional pin to connect the Decoder to the motor and the ws pin to be insulated from the motor.
To continue requires some form of Pillar Drill, a 1.5 mm Dia. hole is drilled though the top cover and block moulding at the same time. ( Pic 17 ) The hole must be aligned in both parts and pass through the web beside the motor mounting as for pin br but on the opposite side next to pin hole ws. ( Pic 18 - 19 -20 ) As can be seen in picture 20, even LGB had problems to achieve this for hole br.
The top plate should be removed from the block moulding and fitted to the foot plate in the correct sense. Using the same 1.5 mm drill, drill through holes ws and gr and the foot plate. ( Pic 21 ) This will provide the location for the cable access slot. ( Pic 22 ) Remove the top plate from the foot plate. Now using any type of Hand Drill ( Pic 23 ) enlarge the 1.5 mm holes to 4 mm then progress to 8 mm dia. Using a Junior Hacksaw Blade cut out the plastic between the 2 holes. ( Pic 24 ) Needle Files are then used to clean a & tidy the slot.
Picture 26 shows the moulded-in anti-rotation feature for pin gr. This is not easily reproduced for the new Yellow pin. However, a cut-away in the side wall of the motor block moulding will have the same effect. A 5 mm dia. rotary cutter or with care, a modelling knife, can be used to produce a suitable indentation. Using a Rat Tail needle file, the inner location lip of the lower cover must also be modified to provide clearance around the new pin tail.
A new pin ( Yellow ) needs to be made. This is a simple bend and cut job. A length of 1.2 mm dia. steel rod, available from any model shop ( RC model aircraft control rod ), is bent to 90 deg. a nominal 10 mm from 1 end. Then cut the rod to the required length. The required length is optional. I chose to make all pins longer to enable wire connection above the foot plate. ( Pic 25 and 29 ) It is possible to use the original br pin and a modified ws pin. Using 2 pairs of small snip nosed pliers, the first bend on the ws pin is turned through approximately 60 degs. to produce the opposite hand. ( Pic 25 & 26 ) All pins should be located in the motor block moulding and Tweaked to fit. The new Yellow wire pin should be cut to provide a push fit into the modified moulding side wall. Complete the reassembly including foot plate.
Picture 27 shows the temporary wiring used to retest the motor block. Testing ensures that things are still as they should be.
Now for the Fun Part. As always, compared to the mechanical alterations, the truly enjoyable part was over in no time at all.
Picture 30 shows the Kit of Parts required to convert the analogue motor block to DCC. To keep things simple at this stage I opted to used 24 volts bulbs ( Standard Decoder setting ). For the Prototype Build I used over sized but easy to use open/closed connectors. ( Pic 37 ) The smaller green connectors will used for the Final Assembly. Again, keeping things simple the loco Wight mounts are utilised for Speaker & PCB Mounting. ( Pic 41 ) Another temporary measure, the ws & br leads have been insulated using model fuel hose. ( Pic42 ) this will be replace with Heat Sink Tubing for the final assy.
We have now arrived at the point the DCC Numkin ( me ) has been dreading. Those first tentative steps toward the Dark Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . Loco Configuration.
Taking as firm a grip, as is possible with trembling fingers, of the Navigator. A final dabbing of sweat from the forehead. Ignoring totally the dire warnings of the Decoder Handbook and only following the soft, seducing prose of the Navigator Handbook, section 3.5, I entered the Dark Side.
And it worked. First Time. Lights sound action. Slow running is impressive with the wheels turning like the second hand on a clock
SWMBO is most impressed. Having explained what is available for a steam loco, I am now under orders to produce said beast. However, before undertaking the next project, this needs to be finished. Parts will be with me in 5 weeks. Time enough to lean about cv's etc.
On the subject of Projects, you have read the words, seen the pictures, how about buying the Tee Shirts. I could do with an injection of capital about now.
Alex
Addendum : Oct 2017
In the avent that the drilling goes all wrong, all is not lost ;
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Getriebegeha...752668?hash=item35ecf51a1c:g:OW4AAOSwt5tZ13aQ
The LGB 2090 is as basic as it comes. ( Picture 1 ) No lights or sound. Both will be present once the conversion is finished.
I start by testing the loco. This ensures that any future failure is related to the conversion and not a fault that existed before starting.
Removing the Cab, Engine cover and Foot Plate revels a single Contact Pin marked WS ( German weiß ) - White and 2 pins joined by a bridging wire. These are marked br ( German braun ) - Brown and gr ( German grün ) Green. ( Pic 9 ) Picture 11 shows the motor terminals contacting with pins ws and gr, with pin br being insulated from the motor terminals. It is also clear that LGB Gearbox Grease is non-conductive. Turning the block over and removing the motor block under cover. ( Pic 12 ) The function of each pin is now clear. Pin ws being the power conductor on the Port Side, br the conductor on the Stb. Side and gr a motor contact. ( Pic 13 ) Hence the need for the bridging wire.
Picture 14 shows the need for an additional pin to connect the Decoder to the motor and the ws pin to be insulated from the motor.
To continue requires some form of Pillar Drill, a 1.5 mm Dia. hole is drilled though the top cover and block moulding at the same time. ( Pic 17 ) The hole must be aligned in both parts and pass through the web beside the motor mounting as for pin br but on the opposite side next to pin hole ws. ( Pic 18 - 19 -20 ) As can be seen in picture 20, even LGB had problems to achieve this for hole br.
The top plate should be removed from the block moulding and fitted to the foot plate in the correct sense. Using the same 1.5 mm drill, drill through holes ws and gr and the foot plate. ( Pic 21 ) This will provide the location for the cable access slot. ( Pic 22 ) Remove the top plate from the foot plate. Now using any type of Hand Drill ( Pic 23 ) enlarge the 1.5 mm holes to 4 mm then progress to 8 mm dia. Using a Junior Hacksaw Blade cut out the plastic between the 2 holes. ( Pic 24 ) Needle Files are then used to clean a & tidy the slot.
Picture 26 shows the moulded-in anti-rotation feature for pin gr. This is not easily reproduced for the new Yellow pin. However, a cut-away in the side wall of the motor block moulding will have the same effect. A 5 mm dia. rotary cutter or with care, a modelling knife, can be used to produce a suitable indentation. Using a Rat Tail needle file, the inner location lip of the lower cover must also be modified to provide clearance around the new pin tail.
A new pin ( Yellow ) needs to be made. This is a simple bend and cut job. A length of 1.2 mm dia. steel rod, available from any model shop ( RC model aircraft control rod ), is bent to 90 deg. a nominal 10 mm from 1 end. Then cut the rod to the required length. The required length is optional. I chose to make all pins longer to enable wire connection above the foot plate. ( Pic 25 and 29 ) It is possible to use the original br pin and a modified ws pin. Using 2 pairs of small snip nosed pliers, the first bend on the ws pin is turned through approximately 60 degs. to produce the opposite hand. ( Pic 25 & 26 ) All pins should be located in the motor block moulding and Tweaked to fit. The new Yellow wire pin should be cut to provide a push fit into the modified moulding side wall. Complete the reassembly including foot plate.
Picture 27 shows the temporary wiring used to retest the motor block. Testing ensures that things are still as they should be.
Now for the Fun Part. As always, compared to the mechanical alterations, the truly enjoyable part was over in no time at all.
Picture 30 shows the Kit of Parts required to convert the analogue motor block to DCC. To keep things simple at this stage I opted to used 24 volts bulbs ( Standard Decoder setting ). For the Prototype Build I used over sized but easy to use open/closed connectors. ( Pic 37 ) The smaller green connectors will used for the Final Assembly. Again, keeping things simple the loco Wight mounts are utilised for Speaker & PCB Mounting. ( Pic 41 ) Another temporary measure, the ws & br leads have been insulated using model fuel hose. ( Pic42 ) this will be replace with Heat Sink Tubing for the final assy.
We have now arrived at the point the DCC Numkin ( me ) has been dreading. Those first tentative steps toward the Dark Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . Loco Configuration.
Taking as firm a grip, as is possible with trembling fingers, of the Navigator. A final dabbing of sweat from the forehead. Ignoring totally the dire warnings of the Decoder Handbook and only following the soft, seducing prose of the Navigator Handbook, section 3.5, I entered the Dark Side.
And it worked. First Time. Lights sound action. Slow running is impressive with the wheels turning like the second hand on a clock
SWMBO is most impressed. Having explained what is available for a steam loco, I am now under orders to produce said beast. However, before undertaking the next project, this needs to be finished. Parts will be with me in 5 weeks. Time enough to lean about cv's etc.
On the subject of Projects, you have read the words, seen the pictures, how about buying the Tee Shirts. I could do with an injection of capital about now.
Alex
Addendum : Oct 2017
In the avent that the drilling goes all wrong, all is not lost ;
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Getriebegeha...752668?hash=item35ecf51a1c:g:OW4AAOSwt5tZ13aQ
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Why Massoth loaded that don't know but a fun sound to have. Then PhilP answered another thread and I got all brave and played with CV200. Worked first time with the Hobby Room filled with railway sounds
Having played with these 2 CV's I can now wang the dial to 28, the loco creeps up at a gentle pace and when the dial is returned to zero, slows slowly then breaks to a stop. Mission accomplished 