Lazy Grange Bay 3...a new start

mike

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Started on the roof..adding brick detail around the top, making the roof plate and trusses, tiles are black plasticard
Biscuits are mine 20211024_123147.jpg20211024_123154.jpg20211024_132435.jpg20211024_153401.jpg20211024_153405.jpg20211024_161711.jpg20211025_134226.jpg20211025_153108.jpg20211025_153114.jpg
 
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mike

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I had some black plasticard to hand Dan, and thought I'd try them..its was far easier to do to be honest..although more expensive at £1.50 per sheet..x 4..for plasticard, plus its not a lover of superglue, yes I know should use the plastic weild...but I'm not fast enough with plastic weird.. its bloody evaporated before I can get it on the joint!@
 

David1226

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I had some black plasticard to hand Dan, and thought I'd try them..its was far easier to do to be honest..although more expensive at £1.50 per sheet..x 4..for plasticard, plus its not a lover of superglue, yes I know should use the plastic weild...but I'm not fast enough with plastic weird.. its bloody evaporated before I can get it on the joint!@
Mike

Just a thought, have you tried a couple of dabs of superglue, enough to hold the pieces together, then flood the joint with plastic weld using a paint brush, to make a full length joint.

David
 
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Paul M

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I had some black plasticard to hand Dan, and thought I'd try them..its was far easier to do to be honest..although more expensive at £1.50 per sheet..x 4..for plasticard, plus its not a lover of superglue, yes I know should use the plastic weild...but I'm not fast enough with plastic weird.. its bloody evaporated before I can get it on the joint!@
I thought plastic weld worked by capillary action
 
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JimmyB

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mike

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The problem I have is the bottles got a child proff cap..and my fingers are not working as they should, (incase you don't know I have C.M.T,Type 1a, it affects the nerves,muscle ect in the hands and feet) so I have lots a lot of manule dexterity in my fingers, opening the bottle , getting the brush in..with out knocking the bottle over, and getting the liquid to the plasticard, before it evaporates, is ni on impossible..you carnt leave it open..it evaporated and I have to put the cap back on losesly..even so its evaporated before I can use it...trust me, I've tried..other than poring the bottle over the joint..my fingers don't work fast enough..
 

dunnyrail

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The problem I have is the bottles got a child proff cap..and my fingers are not working as they should, (incase you don't know I have C.M.T,Type 1a, it affects the nerves,muscle ect in the hands and feet) so I have lots a lot of manule dexterity in my fingers, opening the bottle , getting the brush in..with out knocking the bottle over, and getting the liquid to the plasticard, before it evaporates, is ni on impossible..you carnt leave it open..it evaporated and I have to put the cap back on losesly..even so its evaporated before I can use it...trust me, I've tried..other than poring the bottle over the joint..my fingers don't work fast enough..
I tend to be a bit quick on putting the cap on but still do a fair bit of work before I need to, I would have thought that your super glue tack on followed by a wash the length if each row of tiles ought to be fine to leave the cap off. But you know your limitations better than we do.

The other issue more important is with your method you do not get lots of plastic liquid on top of the black plasticard tiles which lightly sanded make a great representation of slates as you are showing.
 

The Shed

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mike mike

(Suffer severe Arthritis in both hands) this may sound like off the wall, sometimes outside the box thinking, for using liquids I have had to resort to other methodologies, have you tried using these for large areas?

 
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So, one way to avoid the cap on and off hassle is to use a syringe (with the tip ground flat) and then a small hold in the cap of the little jar... you can draw the "glue" up into the syringe without even opening the jar, and then it will not evaporate inside the syringe, and it will be easy to dispense.

You can get syringes on amazon/ebay etc. cheap. I use a small grinding wheel and few seconds removes the sharp tip.

Greg
 
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Rhinochugger

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I had some black plasticard to hand Dan, and thought I'd try them..its was far easier to do to be honest..although more expensive at £1.50 per sheet..x 4..for plasticard, plus its not a lover of superglue, yes I know should use the plastic weild...but I'm not fast enough with plastic weird.. its bloody evaporated before I can get it on the joint!@
Plastic solvent weld is designed to be run along a joint once it's in place - so probably not the easiest to use on something like roof tiles.

However, for plastic to plastic where you need to dab glue on the back, before placing the item, good old polystyrene glue (as in Airfix kits from out childhood) is as good as anything :nod::nod:
 
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Paul M

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mike mike

(Suffer severe Arthritis in both hands) this may sound like off the wall, sometimes outside the box thinking, for using liquids I have had to resort to other methodologies, have you tried using these for large areas?

Be careful with what plastic pipettes or syringes you use, the glue may dissolve them!
 

JimmyB

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Be careful with what plastic pipettes or syringes you use, the glue may dissolve them!
I use these (or similar) and they are polythene, neither solvent or resin dissolves them.
 

JimmyB

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I find that MEK and the thin solvent weld drip for normal pipettes / droppers, it's just too thin and runny.
It shouldn't happen, as the vacuum above the liquid should prevent the liquid leaving the device, i.e. the weight of the liquid cannot overcome the suction of the vacuum. For low viscosity liquids (thin solvents) this should be still true unless the SG is well over 1.5, most solvents are below 1, and as such lighter than water and the vacuum should be more effective. Unless of course, you are using very cheap pipettes.
 
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Uhh.... you seem to be ignoring the diameter of the tip of many pipettes and eye droppers... MEK is very low viscosity. All I can tell you is it happens here at this latitude and longitude, and I have MEK, Lacquer Thinner, several branded welding solvents, and even liquid freon (long outlawed).

Realize that the tiniest bit of pressure on the bulb makes enough to drip.

Also I think you are also ignoring the surface tension of the liquid in question. That is really the biggest factor.

Nothing to do with weight or specific gravity.... of course atmospheric pressure is enough for basically all liquids except perhaps mercury... but in that case (and I have also done this too, not speculating) the surface tension of mercury keeps it in the dropper.

Many different laws of physics at play here beyond the SG of the liquid and atmospheric pressure... Of course we could talk about superfluid helium... here presented from a BBC broadcast in case you want a "home town example"


Greg
 
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