Laying timber to form oval

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Portsladepete

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My layout consists of track on top of brick sized blocks laid in a bed of chippings. My idea was that it would be easier to get each block level, and that the chippings would hold them in place without too much risk of them settling into the bare earth.
This worked, to a point, individual blocks , (they know who they are) were a pain in the backside, but are now reasonably level. I now want to lay 6”x2” timber on top of the blocks, as the track is too near the edge and doesn’t look right in my eyes, it will also avoid any stubborn blocks causing slight dips.
My question is, how do you cut the timber to go round the semi circle, I haven’t got a mitre block anywhere near the size to accommodate the 6“x2” timber, and was hoping there’s some devilishly simple way of cutting the angles so it looks reasonably neat. Any suggestions very welcome. Thanks
 

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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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I think a card or paper template is the best way - I did this with the old WWSR when it ran on top of sleepers in front of a shrub bed.

You need to lay the curved track on top of the template to work out what is the segment length of straight timber that you can accommodate under the track.

As I was only doing short curves, I simply placed two templates at the prescribed angle and bisected the angle for the cut line.

For a longer curve, maybe the last line of sleeper will give an idea of the cut angle required.

You could calculate it, once you know how many segments you're going to need :think::think:
 
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RMurphy195

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Do you have a circular saw? If so then its likely you can tilt the blade, having worked out your angles, to do the actual cutting. 6" x 2" if you have a lot of segments to cut alomost makes it worth while getting one!
 
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Portsladepete

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I think a card or paper template is the best way - I did this with the old WWSR when it ran on top of sleepers in front of a shrub bed.

You need to lay the curved track on top of the template to work out what is the segment length of straight timber that you can accommodate under the track.

As I was only doing short curves, I simply placed two templates at the prescribed angle and bisected the angle for the cut line.

For a longer curve, maybe the last line of sleeper will give an idea of the cut angle required.

You could calculate it, once you know how many segments you're going to need :think::think:
 
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Portsladepete

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Brilliant idea about the sleepers! I’m using Aristocraft radius 2, so not sure if we have any paper big enough, but will give both a try ,thanks a lot
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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DSCF0005d.JPG
 
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Paul M

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Brilliant idea about the sleepers! I’m using Aristocraft radius 2, so not sure if we have any paper big enough, but will give both a try ,thanks a lot
Try paper from a broadsheet newspaper
 
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Portsladepete

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Good idea, do broadsheets still exist though?
 
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Portsladepete

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Nothing like that bothers me, not really a newspaper buyer, genuinely thought they had all gone digital. However might need the Times for this project.
Lost confidence in carpentry skills when I cut the wrong end of an expensive worktop!
 
PhilP

PhilP

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so not sure if we have any paper big enough,
Poundshop.. Roll of brown-paper - parcel wrapping, for-the-use-of.. :nerd: :)

Cheaper option: Do you have the remains of a roll of wallpaper, kicking about? :think:
 
ntpntpntp

ntpntpntp

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I made mine in small sections from a template, and bolted together.

These were R3 curves, I did the same for R5 curves too.
DSCN1035a.jpg
DSCN1038a.jpg
DSCN1040a.jpg
DSCN1046a.jpg


This was not the final location by the way, just playing around with different arrangements
DSCN1051a.JPG



Early days, before the sides were walled in with edging...

DSCN1150a.JPG
 
GAP

GAP

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Question; have you bought the 6"x2" timber yet?
If not give consideration to purchasing some marine plywood and cut the curves with a jigsaw.

Or if you have the timber just cut small pieces that cover each brick and the gaps between, time consuming but will achieve the desired effect of hiding the bricks same as in the attachment to the post from "The Shed".
 
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Portsladepete

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Question; have you bought the 6"x2" timber yet?
If not give consideration to purchasing some marine plywood and cut the curves with a jigsaw.

Or if you have the timber just cut small pieces that cover each brick and the gaps between, time consuming but will achieve the desired effect of hiding the bricks same as in the attachment to the post from "The Shed".
As usual, I ask after purchase :( , the idea was for straightforward battens on top of the blocks, as stated my carpentry skills are nil to minus, but the ideas are excellent, haven’t used wallpaper for at least 20 years, pound shop paper is a winner though. At least I haven’t started cutting yet, so there is hope. The timber size will allow a nominal one inch overhang of the blocks, that way I can strim right up to the track, as the grass has decided my layout needs to be very green. I have been using hand shears,( it’s only a tiny layout), and am convinced that this actually encourages the grass to grow two inches overnight!
Timber is coming tomorrow, fingers crossed!
 
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Portsladepete

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I made mine in small sections from a template, and bolted together.

These were R3 curves, I did the same for R5 curves too.
View attachment 269699 View attachment 269700 View attachment 269701 View attachment 269702

This was not the final location by the way, just playing around with different arrangements
View attachment 269703


Early days, before the sides were walled in with edging...

View attachment 269704
That is totally beyond my capabilities, excellent job though
 
GAP

GAP

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As usual, I ask after purchase :( , the idea was for straightforward battens on top of the blocks, as stated my carpentry skills are nil to minus, but the ideas are excellent, haven’t used wallpaper for at least 20 years, pound shop paper is a winner though. At least I haven’t started cutting yet, so there is hope. The timber size will allow a nominal one inch overhang of the blocks, that way I can strim right up to the track, as the grass has decided my layout needs to be very green. I have been using hand shears,( it’s only a tiny layout), and am convinced that this actually encourages the grass to grow two inches overnight!
Timber is coming tomorrow, fingers crossed!
By strim do you mean using a line trimmer?
If so and the line is going to stay there maybe putting a mowing strip around it will lighten the load, I use premixed concrete in a shallow trench around my garden beds.
 
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Portsladepete

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By strim do you mean using a line trimmer?
If so and the line is going to stay there maybe putting a mowing strip around it will lighten the load, I use premixed concrete in a shallow trench around my garden beds.
Called a strimmer here:)
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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So the wallpaper is the right thing. What you do is lay it down then put a circle of the track on top of it. Now the cunning bit a piece of wood cut to the diameter. Drill a hole in the centre and then you can segment the lengths of cuts by using that as you follow the curves round. If you then of even before draw where the outside of the wood will go you will be able to see where the joins are needed.
 
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Portsladepete

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Are you able to put a diagram here even a rough one? I think I know what you mean, pivoting the wood using the centred hole like a clock hand?